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Discussion in 'Tires / Brakes / Bearings / Axles' started by Anthony Hitchings, Aug 14, 2020.
I had not thought to do so, but will in the future.
my hitch pin is locked.
the only time that the hitch was absent was my fault, towing my small day sailer boat; this revealed itself as I pulled away from the first stoplight on my route. Interestingly, the drawbar did not pull out of the reciever going uphill out of our driveway and even more uphill out of our cul-de-sac
I do a walk around after stopping for luch or when I'm away from the camper. Especially when i had the pup. I checked the roof locks etc. Over cautious , but only took a few minutes for peice of mind. I add a chock to the wheel so i remembered to check at first. Couldn't drive away with it down. My truck also didnt have a auto shut off for the battery, so i always unplugged the 7 pin when i stopped out of habbit. This made sure i repluged and walked the camper.
By "pin" I meant the pin in the breakaway switch. So if you had a light that indicated the breakaway system was engaged, you'd see it lit up if someone pulled your breakaway pin as a stupid prank.
Where might I find a schematic diagram for your diode pair that isolates each circuit from the other.
the diode pairs are sold as a pair in a common encapsulation (package) on the web, put them on the +ve side of your system.
well, as best I can remember, to avoid backfeeding your ebrake controller........
one diode input to your local battery source (PUP house battery in my case) via the breakaway switch
one diode input to the ebrake blue wire FROM your TV
+ve output TO the electrical load (to your ebrake wire going to the axle)
Do you have a link for that? Whenever I set off my breakaway switch (e.g. for a test) it causes the brake warning light on my TV to turn on until I turn off the engine and restart it. I think this would prevent that.
Thank you for the clear and concise explanation. Paul.
Sounds like you don't have a problem with back feeding your controller. Leave things as they are.
I have a hard time believing that my controller would be damaged (despite the included warning), but it was a cheap and relatively easy mod' so I did it.
see if my memory matches my block diagram ....
I'm not sure how you're coming to this conclusion when it's causing a warning light to come on my dash.
Because if you get this a few times AND brake controller still works, then brake controller is NOT getting fried
Yeah, still seems like a bad though though.
Turns out that the newer P2's have a power diode built into their case so the trailer battery voltage can never enter the controller. The P2 will supply up to 3 amps per wheel so that diode has the capacity to carry at least 6 amps per axle.
To dissipate the heat generated under these conditions the diode is mounted on the aluminum bottom of the case which serves as its heat sink.
Also, just FYI, the voltage sent by the controller to the brakes to verify proper connectivity is a 4 volt square wave with a very small percentage duty cycle.
So, it turns out that I don’t need to install any external steering diodes to protect my P2 controller. I don't know about any other controllers.