Bunk End Plywood Alternatives?

[jnbarrett]

Hey folks, I'll be replacing the plywood on my bunk ends in a few weeks - not rotten, but the fasteners have taken a beating and pulled out of the plywood at several spots on the ends.

It got me to pondering if there were other alternatives available such as corrugated pvc panels or the likes and if anyone has used an alternative material.

NorLock - Trusscore

NorLock by Trusscore are freestanding PVC partition walls. Uniquely designed for superior strength, low-maintenance, and abuse-resistant. Start your NorLock project!

trusscore.com

I'm currently looking at a 1/2" or 3/4" tongue and groove fir plywood as the standard.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

I'm thinking a corrugated panel of some sort might be as strong but also offer weight reduction and a thermal break.

 

[eprovenzano]

I don't see a reason why the PVC wouldn't work. Just a few questions to consider
1.) What's the cost difference?
2.) Are they available in the proper size?
3.) How readily available are they?

Very interesting

 

[jnbarrett]

I don't see a reason why the PVC wouldn't work. Just a few questions to consider
1.) What's the cost difference?
2.) Are they available in the proper size?
3.) How readily available are they?

Very interesting

1.) Waiting to hear, but I don't pay what the average person would pay, as I'm a supplier in the construction industry with many contacts / friends in sales for other suppliers of these types of product.

2.) 24' lengths / 30" widths / Interlocking

3.) Locally available.

 

[PopUpSteve]

I think most are made of particleboard. Whatever you use, I would make sure it's one piece.

 

[jnbarrett]

I think most are made of particleboard. Whatever you use, I would make sure it's one piece.

Currently, my OEM ones are not one piece. The usual plywood with a scab piece of 1/8" luan on both sides.

This is why I was thinking of T&G plywood for the joint. The smaller piece closer to the inside of the trailer (as it currently is). Alternatively, I was going to source an aluminum H-channel for the joint.

 

[johneliot]

If it ain’t broke…. I would just replace with like in kind. I can’t imagine the weight savings would be all that much.

 

[jnbarrett]

If it ain’t broke…. I would just replace with like in kind. I can’t imagine the weight savings would be all that much.

It depends on the thickness. I'm waiting on some more specific specifications.

 

[Arruba]

The water tanks on our fire apparatus are by and large are UV stabilized polypropylene. It comes in large sheets of various thickness. As for a required thickness for the proper support vs weight per sheet, I haven’t any idea if that’s a viable consideration or not. Though like most things, there’s probably a spec sheet on the internet somewhere.

Good luck with your choice.

 

[Lug_Nut]

That 'norlock' product is for vertical walls. There's no way it'd support a sleeper with the panels laid flat as a bunk end.
If your issue is threaded fasteners pulling out of the typical 50-50 sawdust and glue faux "plywood" construction, might some "T nuts" be usable to extend the life of the current bunk end material?

 

[Sjm9911]

Yup you need to see how or if it bends with the force applied to the top middle. Some things also require others for stability. It may work perfectly fine, but I wouldn't want to test it out.

 

[tzmartin]

Looks like a interesting project. I replaced the plywood on a bed once and it wasn't too hard. Lot's of rivets and screws to pull out. I also used a wood biscuit joint for the pieces. I'm curious about the load on a horizontal surface of those Norwalk panels. If the panels don't bow, then it looks like a good replacement. The thermal barrier maybe another benefit. Securing the edges into the bedframe seem to be the weak point. Like others commented, repairing the plywood it probably the easy route. But I like your innovative idea!

 

[jnbarrett]

That 'norlock' product is for vertical walls. There's no way it'd support a sleeper with the panels laid flat as a bunk end.
If your issue is threaded fasteners pulling out of the typical 50-50 sawdust and glue faux "plywood" construction, might some "T nuts" be usable to extend the life of the current bunk end material?

This is my concern about the Norlock product., that said, corrugated products tend to have incredible flex strength. I believe it's rated at 25lbs/sq in.

 

[Warfarin]

Nice thing about going with some PVC type product (if strong enough) is you never have to worry about it rotting.

 

[jnbarrett]

Nice thing about going with some PVC type product (if strong enough) is you never have to worry about it rotting.

That's one of the thoughts. And the corrugation will provide a bit of a thermal break, making the beds warmer in colder weather.

 

[Lug_Nut]

The imagined gain by a thermal break under the mattress will be needed to offset the continued lack of thermal break in the fabric walls? Your mattress cushion is that thin?
Will the added thickness of the panel, placed on top of a structurally sound base, make problems in closing and folding and latching the top?
Another blanket layer on top is more effective, can be folded-rolled-crumpled and stuffed into an out of the way area when not desired.

 

[jnbarrett]

The imagined gain by a thermal break under the mattress will be needed to offset the continued lack of thermal break in the fabric walls? Your mattress cushion is that thin?
Will the added thickness of the panel, placed on top of a structurally sound base, make problems in closing and folding and latching the top?
Another blanket layer on top is more effective, can be folded-rolled-crumpled and stuffed into an out of the way area when not desired.

My information comes from Al @ Bear Creek Canvas who has experience with cold weather pop-up comping.

He claims that the cold from under the bunk ends is significant and can be mitigated with a sheet of corrugated cardboard between the mattress and bunk end plywood.

 

[MNTCamper]

Just repair your fastener locations, there are all sorts of options to do that. It really sounds like you are just looking for a project. There are few if any materials that have the flexural strength of wood panels that are anywhere near the cost of wood - that is why it gets used.

 

[jnbarrett]

Just repair your fastener locations, there are all sorts of options to do that. It really sounds like you are just looking for a project. There are few if any materials that have the flexural strength of wood panels that are anywhere near the cost of wood - that is why it gets used.

The edges have been repaired multiple times. There's no structure left for the fasteners.

I'm not one for "make work" projects.

 

[Sjm9911]

Could you picture frame the wood with like aluminum c channel? Then fasten through that? Just an idea. May be good or bad, but its free.

 

[jnbarrett]

Could you picture frame the wood with like aluminum c channel? Then fasten through that? Just an idea. May be good or bad, but its free.

It's not really free, I'd have to buy the aluminum channel. That is a possibility, but the canvas had dry rot (we just got our new Bear Creek Canvas) and the water did damage the wood a little in the corners where the support bars attach as well.

I'd rather just fix it right and have it last a long time rather than bandaid.