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Discussion in 'Wiring' started by Jhunt012, Sep 17, 2015.
Thank you for clarifying. Will do!
What is "all this"? I thought I was being helpful, as was everyone else.
What did you want us to say?
There is a better option.....
let's face it, you'll never fix this so get in the habit of pulling the fuse.
So my options (some better than others) seem to be:
A. bypass the switch with either wire nuts or a jumper
B. try to find a match for the original switch (it is out of stock on the Coleman pop-up parts site mentioned above) Does anyone have a link to this product elsewhere on the web?
C. Use a different model of the same type of switch. This Will likely require some type of modification such as drilling a round hole or coming up with another way to mount the likely different size/shape of switch. A jayco dealership near my house has the jayco version, which would work, but the design was a good bit different than what was formerly on my Fleetwood. I didn't see a good way to mount it.
D. Mount a "normal" toggle switch to the side (out of the way) of the galley and just don't forget to switch it off before closing camper.
I have already performed A until I decide on the best permanent solution.
C is your best bet, assuming you can't find an exact replacement. You want a normally-open plunger type switch. Sort of like a glove box light switch, except that would be normally closed (open when depressed)
Just put a killswitch at your battery. Shut everything down.
Not a bad idea but I personally wouldn't bypass the automatic safety switch. Just too much at stake if your canvas gets a hole burned in it the one time you forget to flip the switch, or if you have the switch closed for charging with the converter with the camper closed up.
pull a fuse in the power center.
That will not work, his truck should still be providing 12V thru the 7 pin and you need the battery for the break away brake function to work.
It sounds like you have misinterpreted what I was saying. I simply meant that the OP probably didn't expect this much conversation to happen around a seemingly simple question. I did not indicate in any way whatsoever that anyone wasn't being helpful. I think you read too much into it but I apologize if I came off that way.
OK no worries.
You had said "Boy, Jhunt012, I bet you're sure wishing you had never asked the question now after all of this. It's not always like this." By that I had concluded that you felt the discussion was harsh/inappropriate/unfriendly/whatever, since you said that he probably wishes he didn't ask it, and that it "isn't always like this".
Thanks for the apology, and sorry if I read in too much.
Update: thanks to your help, I just received the switch from Midland RV and it was the perfect replacement. I just bypassed it for a little while but finally got around to ordering the proper one. Thanks for your help! Looks and works like new.
I'm having this same problem on a 2005 coachman that is new to us. I can't get to the back of the switch to verify this is the problem.
I found my own problem, which isn't saying much, I do have a degree in electronic engineering. I'm just not mechanically handy. I pulled the switch up and found one wire pulled out of the lug on the switch, but I can't get to the area behind the switch. I found the two wires going back to the inverter. I pulled both wires back and manually hooked them to the switch and it works. But now I can't get the wires back where they belong. Going to put a manual switch where I can get to it so we can camp this weekend.
I helped an EE wire the light switches for his Dad's shop. Three switches just baffled him.