Carefree of Colorado Switch and Relay Diagnostics

Discussion in 'PopUpPortal TV' started by popup-flyer, Aug 25, 2021.

  1. popup-flyer

    popup-flyer Active Member

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    Hello fellow PUP owners. In the past 2 weeks I have seen no less than 5 questions on this forum and 2 others asking for help on the Carefree of Colorado Electric Roof lift winch system.

    I am not a youtuber by any means, but I made a video that I hope will be helpful to others that explains a bit about how the switch and double relay pack controls the winch motor with a brief touch on the limiter switch.

    As my name suggests I have a Flagstaff 228D PUP. I have the Goshen lift system and Carefree electric winch. I spent a fair amount of time familiarizing myself with most of the campers systems so if/when something breaks I am not in the dark on troubleshooting.

    First I want to say that this video and instructions assume that you have already made sure all of the blade connectors are clean and corrosion free either by using a chemical cleaner sandpaper or just wiggling it a bunch to make a clean connection.

    The Winch has a single pole double throw (SPDT) switch that is used to control up or down movement of the roof. The switches actually just control relays on a double relay board that switch the actual battery power to the winch motor. My video explains the use of a simple 12V auto light tester but you can apply the same logic for more complex test methods up to and including a volt meter.

    If you want some tips on how to use a test light you can google it or watch the first part of my video to see how it works. If you are using a voltmeter I hope you know how it works.....

    First Test:
    The one thing I don't cover is the breaker that is on the battery + terminal that provides power to the winch and uses a breaker rather than fuse to cut power if you are drawing too much. It looks something like this:

    relay.jpg


    They are supposed to auto reset when they cool down if tripped. If you are not getting power to the system at all start there and use your test light by having the clip on the negative terminal or body of the frame and touch the sharp probe lead to both sides of the breaker. You should see light on the side connected to the battery terminal and the other end that has a wire that goes down to the double relay board. If you aren't getting light on either side of the relay, your battery may be bad or the connection to it badly corroded and power is not flowing (also check the negative connection just in case). If you get light on the battery side but not on the other end connected to the wire going down to the relay board then you may have just found your problem in the breaker. You can temporarily hook the wire directly to the battery to bypass a bad relay to test but DO NOT leave it hooked up that way else you could start a fire if it ever shorts out.

    I will share the below image of my winch upper cover off showing the motor, limiter and back side of the switch. Please note the big black alligator clip is from the test light and is clipped to the tow hitch lock arm. You just need a clean spot to get a good connection to the negative power for your battery. If the light lead reaches and is easily accessible you can feel free to use the battery negative terminal. Using the point on the test light you should be able to tap the center blade on the backside of the switch and see light. This tells you the switch is receiving power. Flip the switch up and down and you should see the light light up on one of the outer blades depending on which way you flip the switch. The switch blade that receives power will be the opposite one from the direction you moved the switch. It is better explained in the video but here is the photo:
    Winch.jpg

    Finally here is the video that hopefully explains best what the switch does and how it works, as well as the double relay pack you can find if you remove the cover underneath the winch motor and how to test them for proper function.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2021
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  2. Dave2514g

    Dave2514g Member

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    Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Last year I had to replace this same small PCB on our popup. It was about $55 Canadian pesos to get a new one. I discovered after replacing it that the contacts on one relay were welded from arcing. I found the same relay on digikey for $7 and soldered it in place. Now I have a spare.
     
  3. popup-flyer

    popup-flyer Active Member

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    Thanks!

    Yeah I looked for new relays and found them to be about $38 to replace both of with the same part number. I think I paid $45 for the unit new so hardly seemed worth the de-soldering trouble even with my "re-flow" workstation to save a few dollars.
     

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