Castle nut tightening

Discussion in 'Tires / Brakes / Bearings / Axles' started by Jonico, Sep 16, 2021.

  1. Jonico

    Jonico New Member

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    When I tighten the castle nut with a wrench the cotter pin opening is accessible. That requires me to back off to the next opening, which is pretty loose in my mind. Will this be okay?
     
  2. eoleson1

    eoleson1 Well-Known Member

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    The correct procedure is to tighten it, then back it off, so yes, it's ok.
     
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  3. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    The next opening shouldn't be that loose. I like to barely feel some play when I pull the hub back and forth. I said "barely" but it should be there.
     
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  4. Jonico

    Jonico New Member

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    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2021
  5. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    Glade to have been helpful. Just curious, why do you put @ in front of the username?
     
  6. Jonico

    Jonico New Member

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    Thanks again
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2021
  7. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    I would know who you were talking to by my user name. Nothing against you personally. I always ask when someone does it but you are the first to answer. Usually twitter and Facebook people do that. I want no part of either of those.
     
  8. bobinfleet

    bobinfleet Well-Known Member

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    You could try a different size (thicker) washer.
     
  9. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Un-Supported Member

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    Or make a shim washer.
     
  10. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    My question is what part does the OP consider "pretty loose"?. If he's talking about end play and can shake the wheel back and forth, it's a problem. If he means the nut is movable with his finger tips when the pin is in, but the wheel doest have anything beyond a light perceptible play, that is OK.
     
  11. Jonico

    Jonico New Member

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    Thanks everyone! It's very interesting... the last three posts here really zeroed in on the issue. I have never repacked bearings or replaced hubs, or anything along those lines, so I watched a couple YouTube videos and knew I could do it. I bought new wheels/tires and new hub kits. Everything was fine as I put them all on the camper and tightened things up. As I mentioned, the cotter pin hole was perfectly placed between a little too tight and a little too loose. I went with a little too loose and wasn't going to worry about it. Still, I watched one more video and this time I noticed the guy mention a washer going on first, and then the spindle nut. Evidently when the Walmart tech put on the tiny tires, he also neglected to put on a washer. Since there was no washer coming off the old hub, it didn't occur to me to put one on with the new one. I imagine the vast majority of you know there should be a washer, but it didn't occur to me. I bought washers, added them and as able to tighten and pull back a bit to a pretty ideal spot.
     
  12. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Well-Known Member

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    use a washer if you see fit. Maybe you got a washer with your kit, maybe not. Don't sweat it. I have never needed to add a washer to an OEM trailer hub system.
     
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  13. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    no washer on my dexter 2200 lb axle nor one depicted in dexter's documentation!
    I always tightened, backed off, hand tight, back off to inset cotter pin.
    nut should move freely stopped by pin.

    A shop replaced 2 3500 lb axles when I got the HiLo. Infrared temp 160F within minutes. Had to pop the covers, pull the pins and back off on the nuts ...
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
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  14. brettstoner

    brettstoner Active Member

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    This exactly! Tighten down with wrench, loosen, then hand tighten, back off to first cotter pin hole. Should have a very small amount of lateral play in the bearing when you push/pull on it.
     
  15. afidmt

    afidmt Member

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    the normal procedure is to tighen to 50 ft lbs, then back off 1/4 turn and secure
     
  16. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    I'm sticking with the directions!
    bearing1.jpg
     
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  17. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Un-Supported Member

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    A 1" spindle has 14 threads per inch. The 1" castle nut has 6 slots. 14 x 6 = 84 divisions per inch. 1 / 84 = 0.012 inch per slot. That's the most end play a hub should.
     
  18. TSQ

    TSQ Active Member

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    Keep in mind the hub (and related components) will expand as they get warm and tighten up.

    In my humble opinion exponentially more bearing issues are caused by the castle nuts being too tight than are caused by them being too loose. I have the same opinion about wheel nuts.

    I always set mine up as per the other posts (tighten with a wrench, back off, tighten by hand, and then back off to the next castle nut opening) which results in a tiny bit of wheel play (when cold). If there is no detectable wheel play I will often back off another "notch" on the castle nut before folding over the cotter pin.
     
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  19. tfischer

    tfischer A bad day camping beats a good day at the office

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    on many systems, I believe including this one, that makes the username clickable so you can see their profile, Etc.
     
  20. SteveP

    SteveP Well-Known Member Platinum Supporting Member

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    It will set an alert for that member that they have been mentioned in a post. A good way to address a member directly without using PM or quoting a lot of text.
     

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