Castle nut tightening

Discussion in 'Tires / Brakes / Bearings / Axles' started by Jonico, Sep 16, 2021.

  1. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    I get a notice if I’m signed up to to receive them. [email protected] is not necessary
     
  2. Wrenchgear

    Wrenchgear Near Elmira, Southern Ontario

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    During the 1980's, Ford specified that opposed tapered wheel bearings should have zero play, and should actually have preload on them. At the dealership we would always wash and repack front bearings during a brake job. We were told to spin the hub by hand while doing final tightening of the axel nut. The nut should have a preload of 14 inch lbs while rotating. So nobody ever used a torque wrench while doing it, but rather just gave it a small amount of tight with a set of channel locks. I still do it that same way today on anything with tapered bearings and have never had a problem. Fords have/had a castleated crown that went on over the nut, so there was never a problem of the hole not lining up. If the hole doesn't line up on a Chevy with a castle nut, then yes, instead of making it too tight you would back it off, but it was always to have a slight bit of preload.
     
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  3. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Un-Supported Member

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    I believe a slight preload is better. That way, all the roller bearings are carrying the load. When the castle nut is backed off a notch, only the top tapered roller or two are truly loaded.
     
  4. TSQ

    TSQ Active Member

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    Timken bearing setting guide attached,
     

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  5. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    That how i did mine. Hand tight, a little more with the channel locks, back off untill i could line up the holes. Done. Pulled on the hub s bit to see if there was any play. If not, it was good to go. If there was too much play, i tightned the nut to the next spot i could insert the pin.
     
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