Centurion CS 3000 replacement?

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by hpierce301, Feb 8, 2020.

  1. hpierce301

    hpierce301 New Member

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  2. bheff

    bheff Well-Known Member

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    I'm going with no
     
  3. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    The one you have is the 30 Amp model
    Ebay's is the 20 Amp model
    I would stick with a 30 Amp model since you are wired for it.
     
  4. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    Why not replace it with a modern unit?
     
  5. Wrenchgear

    Wrenchgear Near Elmira, Southern Ontario

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    Yeah, the e-bay one is a lighter model. It probably would work, but you would be going to a smaller unit. The numbers in the tables under the yellow dots jive, but if you notice the output of yours, it says 13.4 volts, and the e-bay one says 12 volts. That will affect the ability to charge your on board battery deeper/faster.

    A lot of people have a big ugly on for Centurion converters, saying that they are somewhat cheaper in construction. They would advise to go to WFCO brand. Personally, I have a Centurion in my Pup, and its been going strong all these years, so I have no problem with them. Mines a 2002, that equals 18 years, but it could die tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2020
  6. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    It's not a fuse box but rather a converter. Fuses are used to protect the various 12 vdc circuits fed by the converter and breakers are used to protect the 120 vac circuits. Centurion was a terrible converter but fortunately the manufacturer went out of business years ago. WFCO is hardly any better as rarely has one ever been reported to actually bulk charge at it's advertised 14.4 volts. I've owned several myself and the best I ever saw from any of them was 13.7 volts - the last one I turned off and instead used a stand alone CTEK charger that would bulk charge at 14.4 volts.

    Do yourself a favour and forget about buying an old Centurion or even a WFCO. Replace your pooched Centurion with a Progressive Dynamics PD4135 which is a direct replacement.

    http://www.bestconverter.com/Centurion-CS-3000-Replacement-_c_63.html
     
  7. MNTCamper

    MNTCamper Well-Known Member

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    I would recommend a WFCO 8935. I got one online for $118 and replaced my old centurion. Ever so slightly larger hole size, but very easy to replace and works great.
     
  8. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    The universally common complaint about WFCO converters is they're unable to bulk charge at their advertised voltage of 14.4 volts. Have you ever checked yours at the battery? If not, it's not "working great". [XX(]
     
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  9. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    My WFCO is a great 3 stage charger. It bulk charges, absorption charges and floats at 13.6 VDC <GGGG> Its even programmable at 13.6VDC. <GG>
     
  10. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, dontcha just love all those extra special WFCO "features". [LOL]
     
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  11. hpierce301

    hpierce301 New Member

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    so we never boondock, but maybe in the future. But with using shore power, is the WFCO or the PD4135 the better choice.

    and thanks everyone for the information.
     
  12. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Can't imagine buying a WFCO when the PD4135 is so readily available. ;)
     
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  13. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    GF, if you have (or theoretically had) the PD4135 converter in your trailer, while at home would you leave the trailer plugged into shore power for bulk and maintenance charging rather than using your CTEK Multi US 25000 8-step charger? Or do you consider that while camping, the PD4135 is not detrimental enough (or only marginally so) to use while camping. But that at home, for extended periods, you think the charging profile of a temperature compensated charger, like the CTEK 25000, is still better.
     
  14. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    My reasons for not leaving any trailer plugged into shore power 24/7 at home had nothing to do with the converter but rather the vagaries of incoming power which can damage various electrical devices in a camper. I lost the MW oven in our KZ Spree, I presume to a power surge, so I soon after invested in an EMS that would disconnect power to the trailer anytime a power anomaly was detected. Thus protected I then would leave the trailer plugged in 24/7 - no different than protecting various devices in our house.

    As far as the converter is concerned I just got tired of owning WFCO converters that would never bulk charge at the required 14.4 volts so I decided to simply turn it off and instead use a stand alone CTEK charger that would. Unfortunately most trailer converters don't offer temp compensation, the Parallax Paramode with Temp Assure being an exception ...

    http://www.bestconverter.com/Parallax-Paramode-with-TempAssure_c_104.html

    ... but it's probably overkill for your particular situation.

    I only mentioned the PD4135 because it's a direct replacement for the OP's failed Centurion, as well as WFCO.

    http://www.bestconverter.com/4135_c_226.html

    Everyone is different - to many a battery is a battery and when it fails they just simply buy a replacement. Others choose to heed the manufacturer's advice, which in the case of East Penn AGMs means using a charger that's capable of temp compensated charging. Your choice. ;)
     
  15. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    I also think a big part of it is if you do boondocking or not. If you are boondocking, the battery is more important to you. As i plug into power mostly, i dont care that much about the battery. So if it can go a day or so in an emergency situation and it works the emergency breaks im happy. I leave mine hooked into shore power at the home, i may boil them, but i think they will be ok. Not 100 percent, but good enough for my needs.
     
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  16. tfischer

    tfischer Well-Known Member

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    For the money difference I wouldn't buy the lesser, older used one.

    I replaced mine old converter with a WFCO a few years back. I've posted the story before, but they are problematic: They have large ceramic resistors on the boards that aren't secured properly, and break off. Fortunately in my case I have done enough electronics to properly diagnose and fix the problem for free. Twice in fact: The first time 2 resistors fell off (fortunately one was dangling enough to identify which went where, as they were different values), and then about a year later the third one, hidden under a metal plate, broke free. When opening things up to fix that one, the original two which I fix and epoxied in place were doing just fine.

    Blatant manufacturing issue that you'll find numerous reports of on Amazon.
     
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  17. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins Member

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    I have an older 1994 Starcraft Comet PUP. I recently replaced my old Magnatek 30 amp converter with a Parallax 6700 30 amp. Parallax bought out Magnatek. The original converter breakers were old style pull outs. One blew and needed to be replaced. The new converter is 30 amp (I don't have A/C, so did not need 50 amp), and it has 4 - 110v circuits and 6 -12v circuits including variable charging. I have a 115 amp solar collector for I also recommend a newer unit. My install went smooth, once I understood that my new converter frame could not be grounded to the trailer frame (like the original). In the new converter, the 110v side is bonded ground (grounded from shore power) and 12v side is bonded neutral (grounded to trailer frame).
     
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  18. hpierce301

    hpierce301 New Member

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    i have a PD4135 on the way. thanks for the suggestions and comments. Any pointers on the best write up or video on replacement "how to guide"??
     
  19. HeatherTS

    HeatherTS New Member

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    Where did you find it for $118.?
     
  20. tfischer

    tfischer Well-Known Member

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    If you do buy a WFCO, and assuming they haven't fixed their manufacturing issues yet: Save yourself some grief and do this preventative task before installing it: Disassemble the converter down to the circuit board. On the board, you will find several large, white ceramic resistors. My model had three. At the factory, they are just soldered on and then affixed with a dab of what appeared to be latex caulk. Over time, ALL THREE of mine vibrated off of the board, rendering the 12V system useless.

    Just take a hot glue gun and squirt a dab of glue between the resistor and the board. This will lock them in place. This will save you the grief of losing 12V power at an inconvenient time, and also the grief of trying to solder them back in with VERY tiny broken off wires.

    Epoxy would be even better, but a little harder to do and messier. That's what I did.

    Or... just buy a different brand.
     

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