Chocking tires when using leveling blocks

Winchested

Active Member
Jun 19, 2015
321
I only chock one wheel front and back.
So chock the wheel that isn't levelled.

Once your stabs are down you should have zero fear of it rolling anyhow.
 

generok

Super Active Member
Feb 7, 2013
3,457
Anchorage, AK
Same. I chock the wheel that isn't on top of my Lynx. Then the stabs go down, and she's rock solid.

If you wanted and extra bit of chocking, you could use one of those jack wheel chocks like this:

32096_T.jpg
 

xxxapache

Super Active Member
Jul 30, 2008
4,555
When I had my Apache, I used boards for leveling. I just cut them long enough so a chock would fit in the board.
 

sawdusty

San Antonio
Nov 9, 2014
866
San Antonio
xxxapache said:
When I had my Apache, I used boards for leveling. I just cut them long enough so a chock would fit in the board.

I think that is what I will do. I have a bunch of Lynx leveling blocks, but what good are they of the camper gets damaged.
 

94-D2

Happy Campin'
May 21, 2010
2,283
Sutter Creek CA
A ball leveler and a ball chalk would go a long way for stability and security. Chalking one side of a single axle is waiting for trouble to happen and the shake and shimmy inside would drive me nuts. With those two devices, it would be like setting your tires in concrete and are very simple to use.


I use X chocks on my tandem axles. The ball chalk binds the blocks against the wheel and virtually eliminates any play for and aft. With stabs down and the leveler, can't get any more stable without a foundation.
 

MeadiYak

New Member
Jun 21, 2015
7
I have always chocked both wheels for added security. I use block levelers (3 wide) in conjunction with Bal Locking Chocks on both sides. Also have a Fastway Flip Jack Foot on the front. Rock solid and is going nowhere.
 

mv520

Active Member
May 2, 2010
596
I made a U-shaped chock out of 2x4's that I use whenever I put a wheel up on Lynx blocks. i.e, the 2 "legs" of the U are the chocking surfaces that go in front and back of the tire, and the bar that holds the legs in place keeps them functional no matter what surface (as in a slick lynx block) it is on top of. I made it slightly small, and I kick it in to wedge it in place.

Chocking only one side seems like a really bad idea. Counting on the stabs to hold things in place would have to rely on the stabs not sinking in, which they certainly will on rock, sand, or earth. Even to some extent asphalt. Concrete is about the only surface that isn't going to give, and you really shouldn't be cranking them down with much force anyway.

I also always put the tongue jack wheel on a single Linx block so it can't roll - it sits down in between the nubs. i.e, same idea as the yellow thing in generok's picture above.
 

Heady

Super Active Member
Sep 24, 2012
1,581
Sawdusty, Lynx makes chocks which works with the blocks. They work pretty decently.
 

Haybale

I'd rather be camping!!
Aug 22, 2013
2,562
San Diego via MN
Funny you post this as I just made these today!!

My pup tires are smaller than recommended, I'll replace these with the proper size when I can, but I need to put with wheels at least on a 2x12 so the slide out and step can function properly!

This may or may not work as planned. It would probably be better to us 2 peg's than 1... but this is what I had and what I did. I have multiple more 2x12's, 2x4's, 1x4's, and other smaller stuff that are drilled, some with 2 holes to adjust how it sits, and most holes on the smaller stuff is not centered so it can be flipped around!! I have the very small 4.8-8 wheels so with the peg centered to the wheel it should not move!

3/4" hole and 1/2" conduit!, I already had all the stuff in the garage, if buying to do this I would use smaller hole and conduit!

 

Snow

Super Active Member
Jul 19, 2007
12,272
Ontario
Back when we had the pup and before we had the BAL leveler I used two pair of homemade wood chocks in front of and behind both wheels all the time.. When we got the BAL leveler then we only used one pair of the wood chocks on the high side wheel since the BAL took care of the low side.. One thing we did do right from the start was to remove the tongue jack wheel and use a wood block instead..

With the TT we use 3 different styles of chocks.. Have the same wood chocks we use in front and behind the wheels, have two pair of home made "between wheel" chocks and recently we also picked up two chocks similar to the BAL tandem wheel chock..

We chock both low and high side wheels all the time..
 

Wakita46

Active Member
Mar 15, 2013
283
I was using a Bal leveler on one side and two chocks on the other side. Very solid. Now using lynx leveling blocks with lynx chock on the low side and heavy duty rubber chocks on the other side. On severely non lelel site I add lynx blocks and lynx chock under tongue.
 

aslag

Pacific Northwest
Sep 8, 2008
400
Pacific Northwest
BAL "Light Trailer Tire Leveler" on the low side and BAL "Single Axle Tire Locking Chock" on the high side.
 

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nineoaks2004

Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday
Oct 15, 2006
8,241
Dukes, Fl
I also use the BAL Leveler on the low side and it works great, I also use 2 chocks on the level side. ONCE a long time ago I unhooked my pup without chocks and a wheel no the front jack, it left me and went rolling down a hill, lucky for me that a worker in the park cutting grass hooked up and pulled it back to me (after he stopped laughing. I always have both wheels chocked before unhooking the RV now.
 




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