Coleman ABS Roof

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by benfrench, Oct 11, 2011.

Have you had any issues with your Coleman ABS Roof?

  1. Yes, sagging, I fixed it ..

    15.0%
  2. Yes, sagging, I got rid of it ..

    4.3%
  3. No, never had any issues ..

    32.4%
  4. Yes, cracking, I fixed it ..

    50.9%
  5. Yes, cracking, I got rid of it ..

    11.3%
  1. Rick245

    Rick245 New Member

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    I can see why you would need to drill some "access holes" to inject the epoxy. I did have one area where I wasn't sure I could get the epoxy far enough in and considered drilling a hole. I actually used a razor knife to "score" the ABS and open up a sort of flab to get the epoxy under the ABS. Any cracks that are wider than a "hairline crack" I use the ABS/M.E.K. mixture to fill. It has worked out very well so far. If you do drill holes I would simply keep them to a minimum...….the G-Flex will flow very nicely before it begins to set. I believe it has a "working time" of over an hour. Use a roller or simply press down on the entire area that has delaminated to get a good bond. Then put down some weights of heavy object to keep the ABS in contact with the substrate till it has set. Give it time to set.....don't be in a rush. After it has cured, either use the G-Flex or the ABS/MEK mixture to fill the drill holes. Sand smooth. Seal with a coat of Grizzly Grip or a good quality truck-bed-liner -----I'm using U-Pol's Raptor. It is a spray on liner that covers well and looks good. Keep me posted on your progress.
     
  2. CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck Member

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    I've just filled some of the cracks near the roof seal edges with the ABS/MEK slurry. The seal was replaced by the previous owner and is still good. Though I do have new ones for the roof / box just in case. Planning on doing the roof delam's when/if it gets worse. Will use vacuum bag technique. No sense doing it when there's no real need yet.
     
  3. Rick245

    Rick245 New Member

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    The vacuum technique should work great. I have only used vacuum clamping with smaller woodworking projects. Would love to see how it works on a larger area. The trick, I suspect, is getting a good, positive seal. Once I get my bedliner sprayed on I will post some pics.
     
  4. Bultacobill

    Bultacobill New Member

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    So I am new to the site and my problem brings me here. My 2000 Coleman Westlake is suffering from the cracks and delamination. Of course when I bought it 7 months ago it only had a few and now it has a few hundred little cracks and two huge ones that have caused an area about 4 foot by 6 foot to delaminates. I have ground out each crack and glued the delamination which doesn’t seem to hold well.
    To get to my point I have read this whole thread and see that most folks that go the MEK and grizzly grip route are not completely happy. Most folks that just remove the whole ABS roof and cover the remaining fiberglass with Grizzly grip are happy. Is this true? Do you folks that have removed the ABS have any regrets? I do Auto body work so I am comfortable doing either but I don’t want to throw good money away to fix the ABS plastic only to have to remove it and start over. Thanks in advance to your reply.
     
  5. ezakoske

    ezakoske Active Member

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    I think that once the cracking and delamination starts, the MEK/ABS slurry is just delaying the inevitable....I tried that for a while, and then stripped off the ABS and rolled on the Grizzly Grip. No regrets.
     
    Sjm9911 likes this.
  6. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    My abs slurry mix didn't last. And im pretty through with fixing stuff. Others say it lasted. I wouldn't spend the time on fixing it if i had to do it again. I would strip the abs. I will say i sold the pop up before i tryed it. Some i think removed the abs and fiberglassed the lid. The westlake is a nice camper, same as i had and the same year. If in good shape inside its worth fixing it up!
     
  7. Bultacobill

    Bultacobill New Member

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    Thanks for your reply’s. My next question is can I just remove the center part of the ABS to the outside horizontal edge so as not to interfere with the awning rail and the roof support covers? If so will the grizzly grip by using a few coats fill in the area between what’s left of the ABS on the sides and the fiberglass? If this isn’t possible and the entire ABS is to be removed how do I reattach the awning rail?
     
  8. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    The bigger question is how you would separate the plastic awning rail (Part #4753-1211) from the ABS without destroying the rail. [?:~{] It was originally affixed to the ABS roof with a specific adhesive (Fleetwood part #4716-2171) which of course is now no longer available. :( JMO but I think I'd ditch the awning entirely and instead use a stand alone canopy like a First Up. [A]
     
  9. Bultacobill

    Bultacobill New Member

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    I’ve decided to cut just the center section out and leave the edges since they have not delaminated or cracked. This way I can retain the awning track. 8CD14521-3370-47BD-9CE4-5FAC97707957.jpeg
     
  10. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    You could buy a new track and bolt it through using backing plates. But it seems your off and running allready.
     

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