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Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by benfrench, Oct 11, 2011.
Just bought some... will keep y'all updated. Looking to fix a bubble near the AC unit this weekend.
Would it be a bad idea to coat the roof in GG without any remaining ABS and then do the struts to remove the sag? I’m worried the coating might get cracked if I try to fix the sag down the road.
I would fix the sag first. I suspect that the GG doesn't have much flex and you're likely to crack the coat depending on how bad the sag is. I know that appeared to be the problem I had with Monstaliner (also a truck bed liner).
Given that the roof appears the be a type of urethane foam, and gorilla glue is also urethane foam, they should be compatible.
Just glued up one section. Gorilla Glue (original formula) appears to stick very well to both ABS (the ceiling) and the foam core roof. If anyone else does this, just make sure you have enough glue for each section and don't run out in the middle like I did :-(.
Any update? My interior is badly delaminates and was debating just getting rid of it all and adding FRP or something.
I also thought about pulling it all down and putting in car headliner material, but didn't want to spend the money or time on it. So, am in the process of slowly gluing the ceiling back up. It appears to be working, as in the glue is holding the ABS to the foam really well as far as I can tell. All of the ABS had de-laminated but was only cracking in a couple of places. I used a rotary cutter tool to cut through the ABS down the center line so I could pull it down enough to reach in and smear the gorilla glue on the ABS. Man that stuff sticks to skin really well! I use 2x4 tees and some styrofoam pieces to hold the ceiling up while it's drying. Having to do small sections at a time so it's taking a few days. Should be done this weekend.
We're actually trying to get this camper back into shape so we can camp this September. I think we will make it. Next year we are planning to sell the popup since it no longer fits our needs.
GG is quite rigid. It does a nice job of sticking to the ABS but it has no flexibility and will crack. I put it on to cover microcracks with no separation of the ABS and in less than two years the cracks came back with more following - the ABS is certainly failing but the outer shell really does not provide all that much strength so I'm only concerned about keeping water from getting in between the ABS and the foam. What I did a bit less than a month ago was coat the roof with Tropicool by Henry's - it is 100% silicone with a lifetime warranty and it is far more flexible than the ABS ever was so it will survive a lot of thermal expansion and contraction.
You could certainly coat with Tripicool and later try to solve the sag issues without any worry about cracking or pealing. I have no long-term experience with this product but I can tell you it was no problem to apply, was a third the cost of the GG, and dirt literally flies off of it with a spray of water - speaking of water, it just beads up on the silicone.
I'd give the FRP a big thought before I tried it. It is recommended only for vertical surfaces like walls, or flat surfaces with gravity working in your favor, not against you. You can add mechanical fasteners to assist the FRP cement, but there is nothing to screw or rivet into with a Coleman ABS roof with the ABS coming off.
I have no experience with these products. As long as they are UV resistant, may as well try.
I used some epoxy to try to fill a hole where a branch had punctured. The epoxy absorbed into foam and really didn't fill the hole. I came back with Bondo. I suppose multiple layers of epoxy would work, though.
Here are some photos of the finished job. I stripped the abs in May, bondoed some divots, put on 2 full coats of GG with one additional quart used to spot coat, replaced the awning strip with aluminum glued and screwed every 5 inches and replaced the top seal.
It may not be as smooth as the ABS, but it's water tight.
I might end up trying that. Mine was considerable cracked so I removed a big chunk from the back. I think it's a lose lose for me no matter what I do with the ceiling. It ain't gonna be perfect but hopefully I can make it work haha
Did you apply it to the abs or straight to the foam? My abs was removed long ago and after I contacted Henry they said they couldn't say if it would work for me or not. I would be applying straight to the foam
Its better to applie it with the abs stripped. Or so everyone says. Do as nolan did. Don coat the abs remove it.
My ABS has numerous tiny cracks and a couple of larger ones but no delamination. I applied it directly to the ABS and it made a really great primer for the Tropicool. In my opinion, the silicone is way too flexible for a protective coating onto the foam - it is very rubbery. Even the GG is a bit of a stretch - no pun intended - as providing dent and ding protection to the foam unless many coats would be applied.
We have a 1999 Colemand Niagara and the roof is so sad. It has huge cracks. We intially fixed it with abs tape, but it just cracks around it. Last year I gave the camper a good wash and scrub down and now the top is all bubbled. No leaking inside, but it's ugly and I don't like it. I don't want a new camper, because I had no idea how high end this camper is until I really got into looking at other campers. I'm lucky and don't want to give up on it. I really like the idea of finding a good roof on another camper. I'll have to see what I'm able to find. I can only imagine that the roof is the big problem with other trailers that have been donated for parts. I'd be willing to splurge and spend $2k on a new roof if I could even find a place to make one. Pop up Princess has an amazing repair tutorial, I'll have to see if maybe we can manage it.
All the roof repairs that I've seen pictures of and the two that I have done (on the same roof) the roof looks really good afterwards using either some type of truck bed liner or silicon RV roof coating, assuming that the ABS is removed and the top isn't badly bowed.
It's usually not too bad to do. Usually taking off the ABS is fairly easy. Repairing the foam core to be smooth takes a little time. Some people just skip this step or just smooth out the really rough places. Putting the final coat on is usually not too bad using a paint roller.
If the roof is badly sagging in the middle, then that would need to be corrected first.
I just finished rolling on Henry's Tropicool Silicon RV roof coating on top of the Monstaliner Chassis Saver primer that I had put on our roof back in 2016. While the Primer stuck to the foam, the Monstaliner truck bed liner peeled off after 4 years. I'm hoping the Henry's lasts longer. It's supposed to have a lifetime warranty (whatever that means).
AbohBd8hQfa3NurGEDEB1Q by LarryGoesCamping posted Sep 1, 2020 at 10:17 PM
20200724_101309 by LarryGoesCamping posted Jul 24, 2020 at 2:49 PM
20200628_182510 by LarryGoesCamping posted Jul 1, 2020 at 9:20 AM
I'm impressed!! Now come do mine! Lol
Removed the ABS outer layer today. Would love to rebuild with an aluminum tubing frame but will put that off for now. For now will try the white silicone roofing paint technique as a short term solution.
Please correct me if I shouldn’t do that!