Coleman Columbia complete roof repair

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by jeepster827, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    So I got this camper for free. It was in good shape when I got it but when I cleaned it all up I noticed it had quite a few very small holes in the aluminum roof...which can only mean one thing....ROT.

    This thread will be my roof overhaul from start to finish.

    I started a couple days ago, assessing the situation. Yesterday I began to remove the luan and insulation

    Here is what I have so far...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    In the above two images you can see the extent of the water damage on the ceiling. It extends to the side boards as well
    unfortunately

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The above images is my starting insulation removal. Slow going at first. I was using a 2" spackle knife... not very efficient.

    [​IMG]

    Then I found a better method...Using a flat pry bar works much better

    [​IMG]

    To separate the non-rotted wood from the insulation, I used a utility knife to cut the luan into ~8 inch strips all the way through the luan. Then, using the spackle knife like a chisle and the flat bar as a hammer, I started at the most intact edge of the luan and separated the luan from the insulation.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I got half the ceiling done last night in about 3 hours. Hopefully the weather cooperates and I can get the other half done tonight after work. Any questions, please feel free to ask. If you have any advice, please feel free to chime in
     
  2. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

    Messages:
    1,474
    Likes Received:
    167
    Joined:
    May 19, 2010
    Location:
    Lasalle Ontario
    Nice work but i have a question . My PUP in one area has the dreaded rippled ceiling , i do believe however that i caught the leak quickly and sealed everything up and dried it out .
    My question is , i'd like to remove JUST the rippled vinyl covering , do you think that would be possible and if so how would you do it ? Thanks
     
  3. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Picture to reference? If the "wall paper" is what you're talking about, then if thats rippling it means that it has separated from the luan. If that is the case, you probably have a bigger issue than you think. I had the same "rippled ceiling" in the one corner when I first started....And you see what it has now turned into... [:(]

    If you are lucky enough that only the vinyl has separated from the wood, I would use 3M spray adhesive to reattach it to the luan after gently pulling it down and letting the luan dry out for a number of days
     
  4. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    As for a method of removing the vinyl, I would go with a heat gun, a putty knife, and a second pair of hands. But I think once you remove the vinyl there will be some rot on the luan. I hope for your sake there isnt, but be prepared for it
     
  5. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

    Messages:
    1,474
    Likes Received:
    167
    Joined:
    May 19, 2010
    Location:
    Lasalle Ontario
    Yes , i meant the "wallpaper" . Yeh , i'm hoping i caught it in time too , I really don't know how successfull i'll be at peeling off the vinyl , i guess i'll be finding out :)

    Thanks for your help .
     
  6. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    this is what my ceiling looked like that led me to where I am now

    [​IMG]
     
  7. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    So this weekend I put a lot of hours into the ceiling repair. These are just some of the photos that I snapped while working. I will put up the most recent ones tomorrow.

    [​IMG]

    All of the old luan and insulation has been taken down

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    this area of the roof was so water logged from a hole that....

    [​IMG]

    I decided to take out the canvas so I had to make other arrangements for shelter

    [​IMG]

    I dont think these nuts are supposed to be this loose....

    [​IMG]

    are they?

    [​IMG]

    all that supports the lift mechanism is this little tiny piece of ply wood?!?!?!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I didnt like that...

    [​IMG]

    so i made my own

    [​IMG]

    sanded and painted my lift support brackets because they were all rusty and nasty

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    installed my new corner supports


    Also, I couldnt believe there was no support of any kind in the ceiling other than the styrofoam and luan....

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    so i fixed that too

    [​IMG]

    Found quite a few small pin holes while working.

    [​IMG]

    patched them up. For some of the larger holes I used a piece of sheet aluminum to really patch it up good. Ill have to take pictures of that later.

    As it sits now, half the new insulation is up hopefully getting to put some more hours into it tonight if the weather cooperates....
     
  8. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    Messages:
    6,130
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    Steinbach, MB
    Wow... that's a tedious job, particularly working on a reno like yours while the roof is still attached and up in the air.

    Good job so far!
     
  9. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    certainly is a tedious job lol I have to work on it while still attached because I dont have any help to get it off/put it back on. Moreover, I dont have a single flat spot large enough to lay it on its back and work on it. I just hope the slight sag in the middle goes away after the insulation and luan are back up....
     
  10. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    Messages:
    6,130
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    Steinbach, MB
    Yeah, that's a tough repair job for sure. I'm thinking 2x4 posts with some 1' square pieces of plywood between the top of the posts and the ceiling would help with that.
     
  11. tlrider

    tlrider New Member

    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2013
    Hey Jeepster,
    I know you were following my rebuild as well (which I'll update shortly), but after mounting the roof etc, just wanted to give you a word of caution. On mine, I did the 1/8 luan for weight saving etc. However, after bolting on the screen door holders, etc. I'm a bit worried that the luan is too thin to hold the screws and the weight of the door, as there just simply isn't enough surface area for the screws to grip. In case you were thinking about the same thing, I'd possibly consider 1/4, as I'm sure it'll hold the screws in better. If you have nothing weight bearing screwed into the ceiling, or it's distributed over a large area i.e. screen door on tracks, then you're probably fine. I'm a bit worried that mine might give way, thus will probably figure out some way to reinforce it, or buy wall anchors vs. just straight screws into the luan.

    Wanted to give you a heads up in case you get that far
    ~W
     
  12. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    I purchased ~3/16 or 1/4" luan for finishing the ceiling. I also upgraded to 1" insulation over the stock 3/4". My door does secure to the ceiling, however, I am thinking about doing something else with it because its rather annoying.... Thanks for the heads up though! You may consider using some construction adhesive/JB weld to secure the bracketry to the ceiling if youre worried about the screws pulling out.
     
  13. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Only got a little work done today. I had to put some hours in for a house renovation I am doing on the side.

    Here you can see my progress...

    [​IMG]

    got the remaining structure installed and started adhering the foam to the roof. I sure hope I got all the holes because I am NEVER getting this new insulation down lol

    [​IMG]

    close up of the bolted connections this really adds some good rigidity to the roof. Now if only I could figure out what to do about the slight sag in the aluminum....
     
  14. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    Messages:
    6,130
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    Steinbach, MB
    Yeah, I'd say that some sag is to be expected, particularly because you're working overhead. Like I said, make sure you brace up the styrofoam while the adhesive cures and it should help remove some of the sag.
     
  15. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    I will do just that as I continue installing the insulation. I hope it helps. Not that it really matters if theres some roof sag because any weight load will be picked up by the aluminum angles. I just dont want water pooling on top mostly
     
  16. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    Messages:
    6,130
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    Steinbach, MB
    Yep, water pooling becomes an even bigger problem under massive snow accumulations that are subject to freeze/thaw cycles.

    If that's a problem in your area, be sure to brush off the roof every once in a while, particularly as spring approaches and you should be fine.


    1996 Viking 2060ST / 1997 F150
     
  17. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    Living in New York right now so thats a pretty big concern of mine. When this is all said and done and the roof still seems saggy, I may just store it closed with a 1' square piece of ply and 2x4 post inside to push up the middle and keep water from pooling
     
  18. jeepster827

    jeepster827 New Member

    Messages:
    85
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    May 28, 2013
    [​IMG]

    this is the sag in the roof I am trying to alleviate by the time the ceiling is done.
     
  19. timothias

    timothias New Member

    Messages:
    69
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2013
    The manual for my PUP suggests storing the trailer with the tongue raised so that water won't pool. Mine has the same shape of roof.
     
  20. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    Messages:
    6,130
    Likes Received:
    68
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    Steinbach, MB
    Wow... I take it that's a "before" pic, right?

    I think you're on the right track with the rafters you put in but make sure the roof is nice and straight or, better still, arced slightly upward before you finish out the ceiling.

    It's a pretty large area, so with the NY snow it's going to be an ongoing concern. I'd almost thing you'd want to "pre-load" the roof, much the same as a flatdeck trailer is arced upwards, so that when under extreme load, the worst thing that happens is that it levels out.
     

Share This Page