Coleman/Fleetwood Evolution owners? E1/E2/E3

Discussion in 'Camper Manufacturers & Manuals' started by hakrjak, Jun 12, 2010.

  1. bldmtnrider

    bldmtnrider Member

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    OK, just make sure you check your roof for the micro cracks. Driving through a rain storm and not seeing water inside doesn't necessarily mean you are water tight. The wood in the roof acts a bit like a sponge. It will soak it up and then slowly drain it. First spot water usually shows up is through the screw holes in the lights so keep an eye on your lights for water pooling.
     
  2. angtxgal

    angtxgal When we are green we are still growing. Stay green

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    Re: Coleman/Fleetwood Evolution owners? 2008 E3

    I'm the original owner, has a neat cargo are on the front. Have enjoyed it immensely!

    What about boondocking? How self sufficient can I be?
     
  3. aabc

    aabc Member

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    We just got back from Olympic National park where we camped with no hook ups for 4 nights. We have done more off road camping in Central and Eastern Oregon for a week by taking extra water. We do all our cooking outside and rarely use the electricity except for the pump. We have loaded an ATV on the front deck, bikes on the roof on these trips. We have found it the best experience to get to campgrounds not used by big rigs. In reality even the car campers don't make it to some of the locations we have gone to. So find some BLM or Forest Service primitive campsite and give it a go for a weekend. You'll be happy you did of getting away from people is what you are looking for.

    Now I have a question. I know many of you don't use use your cassette toilet. We (I) usually it only at night. The button to rinse it put isn't working. Any thoughts on how to find the problem and fix it. I think it is getting electricity since when we push it the lights will dim but no water comes out. Thx
     
  4. campfreak

    campfreak Active Member

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    The pump is probably seized up.
    If your model is the same as mine, you pull off the handle and button plate, then pull up on the water hose. You might get some more use out of the pump if you can spin the impeller at the bottom with a screwdriver to free it up.
    p.s. The toilet has a separate water supply, so you have to make sure it has water.
     
  5. aabc

    aabc Member

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    Thanks Campfreak. Found a YouTube video that walked me through the process and got it all working again.
     
  6. bailor

    bailor New Member

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    Sorry to hijack but I have a question out there for any E3 owners that re-ran the speaker wire to both the inside and outside speakers. I have an '11 E3 and have wired in a new stereo and amp, but that effort is wasted considering I'm still pushing those crappy factory speakers. So, I'm installing a set of Polk marines on the outside and fitting in a pair of JBL 6x9s on the inside. Easy enough...but as my dad used to tell me- "if the job's worth doing, do the job right", so I figured I'd run new 16ga. wire while I was at it, to replace the cheap 18 or 20ga. that came installed. The outside speakers are easy enough, a short, simple run. The interior speakers however...I'm at a loss. I can't follow the run, and don't believe I could just pull new wire through, since when I tug on the run, it doesn't give at all. Has anyone tackled this task? If so, is it worth the hassle, or should I just hook up to the crap wire and call it a day? Advance thanks!
     
  7. bldmtnrider

    bldmtnrider Member

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    Not going to be much of a help here, but there are enough wires in there that you should be able to track them down. Given that they are pulling power and the thermostat over to that area my guess would be they went under the floor of the trailer.
     
  8. HiFiDave

    HiFiDave Singin round the campfire

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    As an audio hobbyist, own a company that installs pro audio system venues, just use the wire that is there. Clean, new tight connections, all will sound just fine. Frankly I wouldn't change any of the wire. "Cheap...crap" hmmm I don't know, it's all copper likely so what is there will handle the wattage you are pushing down it at the short distance you are dealing with. There is a TON of cable smoke and mirrors in the home audio industry these days, it's your money but...
     
  9. bailor

    bailor New Member

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    Thanks guys..Dave- my thinking was that the factory "cheap crap" wire that they ran (looks to be either 18ga. or smaller) would be "ok" for the outside speakers, as the run is short, however, the run to the speaker under the front bunk is quite lengthy, not to mention the fact that I'm installing a couple of fairly hungry 6x9's over the factory 6.5" speakers that are in there now. I figured that they would benefit from the larger gauge to provide less loss of power during the run. But if you feel the benefit will be minimal I'll just add new connectors and call it a day. Besides, I can't get the run to the front bunk to budge at all, so I'm guessing there'll be no pulling new wire through. Thanks again for your help!
     
  10. sicnm1973

    sicnm1973 New Member

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    hello, new here i'm reaching out to the community for assistance with my 2006 Fleetwood E2. i recently had a blow out on the left side damaging the floor and water lines. i have the floor repaired but if i can get assistance with images or pictures on how the line are set up coming from the pump both hot and cold that go to sink and the external shower. please help thank you very much in advance.
     
  11. andynjj

    andynjj New Member

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    Hello everyone,
    I have a door problem on my 2008 E2.
    The roof doesn't lift enough to get it to reach the tabs. The pulley pin underneath has already been moved to the other position, so I am guessing I need to adjust the wires.
    Has anyone done this and posted a video, or can someone give me a good description on how to adjust them.
    Thanks.
     
  12. Steve Cayton

    Steve Cayton New Member

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    Here's a new member! N.C. Black and Silver E2
     
  13. jam08

    jam08 New Member

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    i bought a 2006 evolution e2. i think i got a good deal on it just needs some tlc. my first main problem= i installed a new rv battery. wires are hooked up correct. the F1 fuse keeps blowing. im thinking the converter is bad and needs replaced. there is some heat damage on circuit board around fuses. Any ideas?
     
  14. adrianpglover

    adrianpglover Active Member

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    Without the battery connected but plugged into shore power, do you get 12V power?
     
  15. jam08

    jam08 New Member

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    I have not tried that yet. I will try that and let you know. Thanks for the reply!
     
  16. adrianpglover

    adrianpglover Active Member

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    If that works, then you know that your converter is at least providing some power to charge a battery. Also remember when connecting your battery that the wire coloring follows house wiring not normal vehicle wiring - black is the hot line and white is the "neutral" or ground line.
     
  17. jam08

    jam08 New Member

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    I installed a new converter box. Still blowing fuse f1. Hooked up to shore power and fuse f1 is still blowing. Even pulled all other fuses out and f1 blows like a dead short.
     
  18. jam08

    jam08 New Member

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    I have it figured out. After tracing and eliminating everything found it to be shorted in ceiling to interior lights. I'm gonna install some better lights on ceiling and re-route wires.
     
  19. adrianpglover

    adrianpglover Active Member

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    I wonder if the short is happening where the wires go into the roof on the rear street side. I've noticed that the wires get kinked pretty bad at this point every time you close up your camper.
     
  20. jam08

    jam08 New Member

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    Yes that's possible. It's also had some low quality roof repairs done with screws. I just got the wires at the top and gonna run them externally acrossed the ceiling to new lights.
     

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