Colorado Spartan

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourself' started by Kerry L. Calkins, Aug 8, 2019.

  1. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins New Member

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    Hello. I am a new member. I am from MI originally. My wife and I met at MSU in East Lansing, MI. Spartans hence the logo. Have lived in CO since 1990. 26 years in Colorado Springs and last three in Severance, CO. My nickname is "KC".

    I have a used 1995 Starcraft Comet pop up camper. It too is Spartan in that it came with no appliances. I added a heater (installed by RV dealer). I use it for hunting and fishing camping adventures. It does have 12v battery to run camper lights and the heater fan.

    I upgraded the electrical converter. I recently installed a Parallax 6730 30 amp converter which as 30 amp main, plus 20 amp and 15 am breakers for 110v plugs, and converter to 12v for camper lights, battery charger, heater fan. I also have a 15w solar panel (mounts on top) for day charging battery when remote camping.

    Have an issue with shore power hook up. When I plug in the shore power to the camper it trips the house circuit breaker (GFI or normal outlet as source). It is not the adapter (have new and it tests ok), and not the house power (outlets are ok on polarity and ground). Searching for the source of the short. Suspect it is ground and neutral somewhere. Starting to do wiring testing.

    Would welcome any ideas and suggestions.

    Thanks,

    KC

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  2. PopUpSteve

    PopUpSteve Administrator

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    Welcome to PopUpPortal
     
  3. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins New Member

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    Thanks Steve.
     
  4. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    Welcome from the mountains of West Virginia
     
  5. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Screen Shot 2019-04-13 at 11.53.58 AM.png
     
  6. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the Portal from South Carolina. Sounds like you have some electrical background. We're pulling for ya.
     
  7. kcsa75

    kcsa75 Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the forum from...wait for it...KC. :)
     
  8. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    Welcome from N/W Fl panhandle. Good Luck and happy Camping
     
  9. megcabra

    megcabra Well-Known Member

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    Welcome and greetings from North Carolina to the portal!
     
  10. friartuck

    friartuck Well-Known Member

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    Welcome form Shiawassee County - Go Green!
    It sounds like you are on the right track hunting the wiring inside the camper. Start with disconnecting the last thing installed and work your way backwards till the breakers stop popping.
    Good luck!
     
  11. hayyward

    hayyward Active Member

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    Welcome to the portal from Wisconsin.
     
  12. Kerry L. Calkins

    Kerry L. Calkins New Member

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    More information on problem - Part 2: Wiring Test Recap

    Objective: Get the camper wiring working so I can use shore or house power to trickle charge battery when connected.
    Restating The Problem: Any attempt to plug into shore (house) power trips house 20 amp GFI plug. Assumption based on what I have read is that I need to find the ground fault which may be a neutral/ground wire connection causing a positive neutral. Not sure this is right.

    BACKGROUND:
    House Power: 20 amp 110v via GFI outlet in garage (without any load on circuit; normally has refrigerator on this circuit but I disconnected for test).
    Electrical system condition: No load on 110v (interior camper plugs on two separate circuits are all I have (I only have a gas heater which only uses 12v fan) and on 12v side (interior and exterior camper lights and running/back up lights, and charging wire through harness to truck), and no battery connected.
    Grounds: I located four ground connections to the trailer frame. 1 main large bare copper wire (converter direct ground to frame through floor), 2 smaller gage white wires from within trailer connecting to trailer frame (shore power side front), and 1 from battery to frame (near battery). I unfastened all ground connections to the trailer frame. I cleaned all and connected.
    Continuity Test: I understand the there should be zero continuity when you test the disconnected 30 amp shore power plug between ground and either post. Is this correct? If not, what is the correct procedure to find the ground fault.

    Step By Step:
    1 - Testing the PUP 30 amp plug for continuity I get: Nothing between ground and hot wire post; but I do get continuity between ground and the neutral post. This occurs with the converter breakers on or off.

    2 - I trace the neutral wire back ...
    (a) from converter 10 gage neutral in and still get continuity on all downstream neutral wires, ground block, and branch ground legs;
    (b) with main neutral disconnected ... checking from main neutral feed into the converter ... I still get continuity everywhere downstream;
    (c) when I disconnect the main ground block on converter (copper wire running through floor and attaching to trailer frame), there is no continuity on neutral anywhere;
    (d) when I check continuity on cooper ground wire only I still get continuity. Does this mean the main ground wire is bad or does not have correct ground to trailer frame?
    Feed back is welcome. Trying to work my way to solving this problem.

    KC
    Colorado Spartan

     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2019
  13. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Sorry, no help here, just empathy. I spent 2.5 days trying to find a short in my trailer lights. No help in your situation, but I gave up and ran ‘new’ wire. Wish I had ‘let it go’ 2 days sooner!

    Did you ever figure out the cause?
     

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