Connecting Solar and multiple other wires to battery

Discussion in 'Power - Site Power/Batteries/Generators/Solar' started by PopUpLarge, Aug 25, 2019.

  1. PopUpLarge

    PopUpLarge Member

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    1991 Viking 180. 75ah deep cycle AGM battery made for UPS applications. I don't know a ton about wiring but I'm learning.

    I have just purchased a starter solar kit, starting small with a single 100W panel and 30A controller (with breaker between converter and battery and fuse between panel and controller).

    I have a (rarely used) inverter that I wire directly to the battery, because it doesn't work very well connected through the converter.

    I'm also considering rewiring to be able to charge from the TV when towing.

    My question is: should I run all these through a junction box before I connect to the battery? Are there potential problems having the PUP DC, solar, inverter, and TV charge wires all connected directly to the battery terminals at the same time?
     
  2. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    There aren't a lot of problems with having that many wires connected to the battery. Just a lot of wires. Larger TT's use a
    junction box so they only have 2 wires to the battery. A lot neater setup.
     
  3. BillyMc

    BillyMc Well-Known Member

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    If your controller also monitors your battery's state of charge anything you connect directly to the battery will not be read by the controller. To monitor battery state of charge everything that uses battery power and everything that charges the battery needs to be connect to the device the monitors the battery and from that device to the battery.
     
  4. PopUpLarge

    PopUpLarge Member

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    So essentially I should use the charge controller as the main hub? Something like this? (apologies if formatting doesn't work right)

    Solar
    TV Charge
    Smart Charger >>>> 30A Charge Controller >>>>battery
    Stock DC system
    Inverter

    If set it up the way I stated in my original post, could that potentially cause issues/damage to components?
     
  5. BillyMc

    BillyMc Well-Known Member

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    I don't know of any damage that would be caused. The issue would come into play if your controller also monitors the battery state of charge. Any monitoring device needs to read both drain and charge or it can't determine the correct charge level of the battery. If all you have going though a monitoring device is your drain and the charge directly to the battery the monitor doesn't see the used power being replaced. Being a starter kit I would hope it has wiring diagrams and directions.

    If your controller doesn't monitor charge level it doesn't matter.
     
  6. SteveP

    SteveP Well-Known Member

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    No, A starter controller will not be able to handle all of those inputs. Either use the battery as the main hub or a junction box. IMO adding an unnecessary junction box just adds another point of possible failure. From the way I read your first post you will have 3 wires on each battery post. Just make sure the connections are clean and properly fused and torqued and you'll be ok.
     
  7. BillyMc

    BillyMc Well-Known Member

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    That is a possible issue in size of wires (something like this to tie everything to one 10 gauge wire) and amp load. If the amp load will exceed the limits of you controller you can't connect everything to it. I was assuming with a 75 AH battery the OP wouldn't be connecting anything that would overload a 30 amp controller.
     
  8. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    NO, typically each wire is terminated in a ring terminal and stacked on the threaded battery terminal.
    Ya might consider using alligator clips for the inverter.

    A fuse block is an option, main fuse @ battery wired to fuse block, each circuit fused separately.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/EEEkit-1...hguid=6cc45c14-4c3-16ccba133addf1&athena=true

    FYI, solar controllers base battery state of charge on charging voltage and are not very accurate, they are not battery monitors that can count in/out power.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2019

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