Convert pump faucet to non-pump

Hi,

I just did this - had a pump faucet that I got tired of pumping for little spurts of water.

I bought a Flo-jet pump on Ebay for about $40 - the Shurflo's are around $60.

I get a cheap kitchen faucet from Home Depot for about $20....it has two seperate knobs for hot/cold water. I use one for the city water connection and the other for the feed from the tank/water pump.

You will need to to do some Frankenstein plumbing to get from point A to point B. I salvaged the inline check valve from my old setup and reused it on the line coming from the pump - this way if both taps are on, there is no chance of backflow of city water back towards the tank.

I had to replace the non-pressure tubing with some pressure-rated tubing for the line from the pump to the sink.

I have all of it plumbed up; just need to go to the auto parts store for a switch for the pump.

Total cost - somewhere in the range of $100.

Later,

Todd

Wife, 3 Kids, 4 Dogs, 3 Cats, The Wabbit
'88 Palomino TXL hardsider
'93 Ford E-350 Van

 

I am adding a eletric pump to my 2002 Coleman Mesa. I plan to replace the hand pump with something from the hardware store, but the hole in the countertop is about three inches in diameter. I don't think the base plate on a normal faucet will cover the hole. Todd, did you have a similar problem? This is my current faucet:

http://tinyurl.com/6blmac

-Rob
02 Coleman Mesa
05 F-150

Edited by - robpreuss on July 15 2008 11:45:51

 

We did the same thing with our previous camper. I used a small piece of wood (treated with polyurethane) to cover the original opening and resized for the new plumping.

<img src="http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/21829/1357726139071427016S425x425Q85.jpg" border=0>

I used plumbing lines from either Lowes or Menards. The faucet was from Lowes.

<img src="http://inlinethumb07.webshots.com/40774/1357726297071427016S425x425Q85.jpg" border=0>

I kept the check valve in place on the city line to keep the pump from forcing water back out that way and the pump has a check valve that kept city water from flowing back into the tank.

It worked great and was an easy installation.

Steve & Deb (boys are grown & gone)
Aspen & Riley (the 4 legged children)
05 Fleetwood Sequoia & lot's of bikes! <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Bicycle"><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Bicycle">

 

I replaced <b>all</b> my lines with 3/4" OD reinforced hose from Home Despot (not a spelling mistake)

<img src="http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/18013/2472165310101305190S500x500Q85.jpg" border=0>

I relocated the faucet to be easier for the kids to reach. I filled in the old hole w/ some oak plywood

<img src="http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/11956/2614233480101305190S500x500Q85.jpg" border=0>

Installed the pump under the galley

<img src="http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/31628/2163391810101305190S500x500Q85.jpg" border=0>

I used check valves to prevent backflow:
-from the city inlet to the pump
-from the pump to the city inlet

<img src="http://inlinethumb52.webshots.com/8627/2888658330101305190S500x500Q85.jpg" border=0>

don't forget the switch

<img src="http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/1604/2079716250101305190S500x500Q85.jpg" border=0>

While I was at it, I added a second line that runs to a hose bib outside the camper. I use this for my sink & shower. It has proven to be very useful

<img src="http://inlinethumb53.webshots.com/40116/2901990220101305190S500x500Q85.jpg" border=0>

I got the pump & faucet at my RV store, maybe $85 for both. The hoses, check valves, etc. cost me about an additional $50, but a simpler installation would be less than 1/2 that.

Good luck,


Joe

<img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle alt="PopUp">'96 Rockwood Signature Series 1280
<img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Tow Vehicle">'07 Ford Explorer
<i>Wherever you go, there you are.</i>

 

Hi,

I actually had three holes in my counter - the original square one for the three-way, one on the left for the Atwood I put in, and one on the right for a little bar faucet. I bought a small white cutting board for 50 cents at the thrift store and cut out a piece to cover all those and to mount the new faucet to.

I am uploading a bunch of new mod photos to my Webshots....they will be there in a few minutes.

Joe, I like the outside bib...might have to add that to my rig. I had a small faucet just like yours....my DW didn't like it so I moved up to a regular-sized one that still lets my kitchen flip down.

Later!

Todd

Wife, 3 Kids, 4 Dogs, 3 Cats, The Wabbit
'88 Palomino TXL hardsider
'93 Ford E-350 Van

 

I was not thinking of putting a check valve on the city line. I plan to use the hot side for city water and the cold for onboard, with a faucet similar to scm46530's. I do not have a heater, and don't plan to add one. I guess if both handles were on, I would back feed the other line, so the valves would be a good idea. Joe, do the several checks you use make winterizing a PITA?

-Rob
02 Coleman Mesa
05 F-150

Edited by - robpreuss on July 15 2008 14:23:42

 

You should only need one checkflow - the one inside the camper wall that the city water connects to. I know that Shur Flo pumps are rated to take 200 PSI back pressure on the line with their internal check valve. I think Flo Jet has the same feature, but you should double check that.

I had the same thought as you Rob when I installed mine. And realized (as you have) that opening the wrong tap could shoot water out the side! After installing, I opened both to see. No water coming out the city connection! The existing check valve worked fine.

Steve & Deb (boys are grown & gone)
Aspen & Riley (the 4 legged children)
05 Fleetwood Sequoia & lot's of bikes! <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Bicycle"><img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_bike.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Bicycle">

 

Rob, no problems at all with winterizing. The check valve on the city input is right after the connection, so if I winterize the tank, turn on the pump, and open the faucets, all of my lines are filled properly.

You really <i>shouldn't</i> run in to a problem with back feeding if both sides are pressurized. If you had no city water hooked up and opened both, I suppose it would be possible to back feed the city line.

Hooking the pump & city line together was very easy. If you look at the picture with the check valve, you'll see two tees, both located after the check valve behind the pump. One of them goes to the city water input, the other splits the water to the sink & hose bib. It made it easier for me to deal with one supply line since I have inside and outside faucets. That would have been a pain with separate city water & pump lines. I don't ever plan on installing a heater, either, but I do use an external tankless heater for dishes, showers, etc. That's why I ran the extra line outside.


Joe

<img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle alt="PopUp">'96 Rockwood Signature Series 1280
<img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Tow Vehicle">'07 Ford Explorer
<i>Wherever you go, there you are.</i>

 

I finished the install this weekend. My pictures are here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/robpreuss/WaterPump

I cut the 3/8" ID tube that ran from the tank to the hand pump, and connected it to the inlet of the new pump. When I bought the supplies, I thought it was 1/2", so I wasn't ready to replace it. The water pump instructions recommend 1/2" on the in and out. It hammers some, but that could be because of the size of the inlet tubing. It may be a project for later. I also left room for a accumulator for later. <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Wink">

-Rob '79, DW '79, DS '07, Beagle ~'01
'02 Coleman Mesa
'05 F-150

 

Looks good. Nice job.


Joe

<img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle alt="PopUp">'96 Rockwood Signature Series 1280
<img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Tow Vehicle">'07 Ford Explorer
<i>Wherever you go, there you are.</i>

 

wow looks good I was thinking of doing a similar job on a lark pop up we have. how much was the mod total if you dont mind.

 

The OP (original poster)hasn't been on here since July 2013, so he probably won't be answering your question. If you read through this plumbing section, you might find a more recent and still (more or less) active thread on the subject.

 

Will do thank you