Converting dinette to bed Q

Discussion in 'A-Frame PopUps' started by OneTruth, Aug 31, 2019.

  1. OneTruth

    OneTruth New Member

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    As I explore my “new” pre-owned 2015 Aliner Ranger 12, I’m puzzled why there are 4 wood slat boards in addition to the tabletop to form the bed surface. Is there a “proper” way convert the dinette area into a bed?
     
  2. jadmt

    jadmt Member

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    You don’t use the table top. Just use the slats equally spaced.
     
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  3. Sotovoce

    Sotovoce Active Member

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    Ditto what jadmt said.
     
  4. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    I sent an email to NW addressing the useless owner's manual when it came to the "VersaDine" setup.

    Our 2018 Aliner Scout dinette bed was supplied with 4 boards , 6" wide, so your total support is 24" wide. The hole to cover is 38" deep, so there are 14" of unsupported cushions. The email I got from Aliner said the dinette table is to be "stored" on the floor and not used for the bed setup. The owner's manual was no help showing the "VersaDine" setup.

    I ended up cutting 2 more pieces of 1x6 to fill in the gaps, not covered by Aliner. Last time I checked, unsupported foam doesn't have a lot of structural integrity.

    The table top is useless, unless it has been redesigned which I doubt, since it has 1" plastic band stuck to 1/2" wood. It could not carry any weight, since it is for looks only. I also, cut 1/2" thick support pieces for the dinette table top plastic trim.
     
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  5. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Active Member

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    that's odd, our 2003 Scout's dinette table was also the dinette bed base - and sturdy (=heavy)
     
  6. Merlin14

    Merlin14 Active Member

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    When we looked at our new to us 2014 Classic, I knew the slats had to go. Hard to use them, easy to scrape knuckles, and other reasons.
    It's all particle board anyway and I want the storage space the slats take. Remove the table, store it in a slot in front of the slats, store the pedestal pole. Install the slats. You may need a nap after that.

    Here's what I did: I cut down a 1x2 hardwood board to fit and predrilled 12 holes 1-1/4 in deep through back end of table (square end).
    Into these holes were HAND DRIVE ONLY 1-3/4 wood screws. If I re-did the screws, I'd run the screws in 1/3 way and remove to get scrap removed from hole, then repeat for 2/3 way then HAND DRIVE home. Slats are now in attic, where adhesive wrap will loosen in the years ahead.

    Then I cut a hardwood board approx 12"x 24" to fit closely but not tightly to allow for expansion and install/remove.
    This now fills up the area completely, or the hardwood can be left out for slightly more floor space. (The hardwood piece is not in pic below.)

    table1.jpg

    Next thing is get rid of the pedestal mount and base on the table and floor. Not sure yet but the table legs below will NOT work. Too long.
    You guys got any ideas? I want the table, but not the way of mounting.

    new legs.jpg

    Our first trip was this past weekend and temps were at 100 degrees. All systems worked fine, but refrigerator can not operate well at 100.
     
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  7. StlAnnie

    StlAnnie New Member

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    I simply don’t use that table top. Instead, I use a separate folding table. The legs grab the original table mount to help keep it stable when folded for travel
     
  8. OneTruth

    OneTruth New Member

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    I seem to see a warp to my tabletop. Makes sense that you would not want to warp the tabletop
     

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