Corner leveler legs - put down "before" or after pop up goes up?


Super Active Member
Feb 25, 2014
I saw that in some of the posts, you guru's say to first pop up the roof....THEN lower the leveling legs on the 4 corners?
is this because the leveling jacks will throw the roof/straightness out of kilter or cause the pop up resettles itself once roof is up?

Just curious as to why it's in this sequence.
Thought that "once" you set the levelers on the 4 corners down...the roof could then be popped up but is that not the case?

Looking forward to openin' her up this weekend.

Suppose to be 60+ this weekend!!!!!............FINALLY!! [SUN] [SUN]


Super Active Member
Sep 1, 2012
Northwestern New Jersey
If you are referring to stabilizers they should be snugged and not used to level. If you actually have levelers it wouldn't hurt to level the pup before lifting. I don't think it's a big deal either way.


Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD
Jun 8, 2012
Depends on the pup, check your owners manual, some say to drop the stabs before raising the roof and some say not to drop them till after raising it.

Important note, as Tombiasi said, they are stabilizers, NOT levelers in most cases.


Super Active Member
Dec 2, 2011
The manual for our 2004 Fleetwood Sedona says "Level, lift, stabilize." In that order.

Always check the manual for your make/model.


Active Member
May 20, 2008
Always check the manual for your make/model.

Do this. Always. Really.

If you are referring to the swing-down feet under the trailer, they are stabilizers not levelers.
The trailer should be level before you pop it. (How you achieve that may involve pieces of wood,
Bal levelers, outright voodoo or bad words.)

Once the camper is popped, then put the stabilizers down to prevent rocking, etc.

When you're ready to knock down the camper, the stabilizers are the first external item to be released
and folded back up, after which you proceed with the rest of story.



Super Active Member
Feb 25, 2014
Thanks all...wonder why those stabiles legs aren't made to level as well?
You'd think that the design of them could simply be altered to indeed stabilize AND level the PUP.


Super Active Member
Oct 29, 2013
rob2218 said:
Thanks all...wonder why those stabiles legs aren't made to level as well?
You'd think that the design of them could simply be altered to indeed stabilize AND level the PUP.
You could break off a stab if you try to level with them, or even worse. You could bend the frame. Level front to back with the tung jack after leveling side to side with leveling blocks or BAL Leveler.


Well, there's your problem!
May 20, 2008
Seattle, Washington
The issue isn't damaging the stabilizer if you use it to level, it is torquing the frame out of true by applying a lot of force in one corner to something that is not really very strong.


Active Member
Jan 8, 2012
My pup has scissor jack type stabilizers. Manual says to level, stabilize, then raise. However, when I go that route, the single piece door tends to pop out at the top of the camper during the weekend.

I started doing level, raise, install door, then stabilize and haven't had a problem since! Figured it out by accident, as I always forgot to stabilize at home when working on the pup until after I had already done most of the setup. Noticed at home, I never had an issue with the door, so I tried it camping and it works perfectly.

That said, I would always go with what the manual says, unless it doesn't work well.


Super Active Member
Platinum Supporting Member
Dec 26, 2009
Albuquerque, NM
+1 that those are stabilizers, not levelers. They should be snug, our instructions were to crank them to just barely snug, then add 1/2 turn or so. On some soft surfaces we have sometimes needed to re-snug them after a day or two. Sand pads help, putting those down on Lynx blocks helps even more.

Go with what your manual says.

What adds to confusion with Coleman/Fleetwood pups is they apparently changed the order at some point (maybe in the '80s?), and it seems to be retroactive to at least some models.

The way it was explained on here a while back (by one of the no-longer-active gurus, IIRC) is that the Coleman frame may settle a bit as the roof is cranked up. If the stabs are snug, the frame cannot do that, and it might lead to twisting. Since I can sometimes hear that going on, I believe that explanation.
What we do is to crank the stabs down to about 1/4" above ground and then raise the roof. That way, if there are two of us and one gets ahead of the order of work, the pup won't do a wheelie if someone steps in the pup.
Our issue with placing the door has been not getting the roof raised all the way, since I want to crank it enough but not too far. The Cobalt does not have a height indicator, so we have to go by experience and how it is cranking. [It is about 56 turns for our roof, but I can lose count when I take a break, and when I use the Socket Jenie, there is not counting of turns.]


Super Active Member
Mar 15, 2011
Stillwater, MN

I had a problem with my 1997 Coleman raising too high. I found the stop collar on the Wiffle tree had sheared a pin and could had moved, allowing the roof to raise too high. This put too much stress on the canvas and tore the arrowhead connection at a few points and to door to be sloppy.

With a visit under the camper I found the collar could move. A hammer with a punch romoved the broken pin. A visit to a local ACOE Hardware and some 20 cents later I replaced the pin, adjusted to roof height and it would stop at the right height from then on.

Just my experience with my Coleman that I thought might be helpful to you.


Super Active Member
Feb 20, 2012
speckhunter80 said:
Stabilizers are not levelers. Follow the instructions in your owner's manual.
Can we make this phrase into bumper stickers?

Otherwise, the above responses capture this well and, as shown, not all makes/models follow the same procedure.

Good luck.