crank shaft broke

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by outback_dave, Sep 15, 2020 at 2:57 PM.

  1. outback_dave

    outback_dave New Member

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    As the title of the thread says, it broke picture below of the carnage.

    now this has the old slotted nut style which I took care of with tons of PBblast, a ryobi impact wrench and a blow torch. yet the cranck shaft will not screw off like they say it will. am i'm needing to take apart alot more?
     

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  2. PopUpSteve

    PopUpSteve Administrator

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    Maybe you can square-off the pipe and drill a small hole through it to put a stud on it for the crank to slot into.
     
  3. outback_dave

    outback_dave New Member

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    that's part of how I got to where I am now.
     
  4. YHSublime

    YHSublime New Member

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    I’m in a similar situation.

    I ended up using a vice to crank open/shut. It’s temporary, but works for now.
     
  5. outback_dave

    outback_dave New Member

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    yeah, channel locks got it open and closed for us. I have new extension on the way, I just need to get this dang thing off first.
     
  6. megcabra

    megcabra Well-Known Member

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  7. YHSublime

    YHSublime New Member

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    That will be helpful for me, if not the OP, but I think they have parts on the way already it sounds like!

    @megcabra do you know how the shaft comes off, it should just unscrew, right?
     
  8. outback_dave

    outback_dave New Member

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    that's my understanding, but it will not screw off. maybe more blow torch...
     
  9. megcabra

    megcabra Well-Known Member

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    There is a nut that goes inside the shaft. But you need to remove a pin first. See the pictures below.


    BD67074E-99B2-4068-A5B8-FE65F5ADC055.jpeg B2D36003-25EF-4719-94FD-264F6ADA4708.jpeg 23322EF6-9B2B-4642-8284-28B7B4181683.jpeg DA64F0F0-C077-4BEB-93BA-C2C7471B09A3.jpeg


     

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  10. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, don't use more force.

    Instead you need a 5/8" socket on an extension that goes into the pipe and removes the nut (item #13 shown above) inside the pipe.
    To get the socket to contact the nut, you need to remove the roll pin (item 16 above) used by your crank to crank on.
    But it looks like that roll pin is part of the pipe that is completely broken off now, so you should have clear access to the nut with a 5/8" socket

    It may take a bit of wiggling to get a socket over the nut if the nut is corroded, but eventually it catches on the nut and you can loosen it and it all starts to come apart

    There are a few pretty good youtubes how to do this linked on my website.

    I just did this project myself and captured it all on video this spring but have been to busy to edit all the clips and put them together yet and post them. Once I finish my video it will hopefully be very good and detailed how to replace the crank assembly.

    First I have to finish editing a wedding where I was the videographer.
     
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  11. outback_dave

    outback_dave New Member

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    Here is where I am now. The nut is out.

    IMG_20200915_193516.jpg

    The shaft will not turn to the left to save my life.

    IMG_20200915_193430.jpg
     
  12. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    You have a Coleman/Fleetwood model that has the crank down at the bumper rather than "waist level" so there might be some differences from mine, but you would still have a clutch mechanism, and I can see the ratchet gear from the clutch mechanism in your photo.

    Please add your Coleman/Fleetwood model and year to your signature so we know which popup model you have.

    I would study what a new crank assembly looks like by looking at the excellent photos on colemanpopupparts.com. I don't know if you have a crank assembly 6311 or 3000 because I don't know what model and year of a camper you have.

    Here is the link for the 6311

    Here is the link for the 3000

    I'm guessing the threads on the Drive Hub Extension and the Drive Shaft are hopelessly stripped into one solid mass of metal from using so much force, before taking the nut off.

    You may need to tap out the pins on the back side, by crawling under your camper and getting access to the pins that connect the drive shaft to your wiffle tree.

    But I wouldn't continue to use force on the Drive hub extension that is cracked off.

    Once you get the whole assemble out you can assess if you can just buy some parts, or if you need a whole new complete crank assembly.

    If you try to get by with just some new parts you will for sure need the following:
    - Drive hub extension (you have to measure the old one to see which one you need)
    - Drive shaft (that is probably hopelessly stripped)
    - Pressure Plate (always good to replace whenever you pull it apart)
    - Bearings
    - Roll pins
    You might find there is also damage to the wiffle tree once you open it up and take out the pins. Let's hope its ok for now.

    All these parts are available at colemanpopupparts.com
     
  13. outback_dave

    outback_dave New Member

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    ok, it's a 1995 Coleman Cedar. should be the 2900 crack assembly according to the parts book, but this looks a little different from the diagram I see. I have a new extension on the way, but I can't the shaft off then not sure what good that does me at this point. i'm hoping to not have to replace the whole assembly.

    IMG_20200916_064552.jpg
     
  14. Phil O'Regan

    Phil O'Regan New Member

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    Put a vice grips pliers on the sprocket (the smaller toothed gear to the right in your photo) and another on the extension tube (the broken "shaft") and remove the extension tube that way.
     
  15. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    That's worth a try to see if it will budge

    But I'm thinking if its that tight the Drive shaft threads are not likely in good shape anymore
     
  16. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Here is the crank assembly parts for a 1995 Coleman Destiny series

    I'm guessing you need to remove the shear pins (19) and take out the drive shaft (5) and replace the drive shaft if the threads are all stripped and siezed that badly.

    The Drive Hub Extension (17) is only one part that will likely need replacing.
    I'd take it all apart first and see what you need and then order.

    While you're at it you should replace the pressure plate (6) since this is easy to replace and works much better when new.

    [​IMG]
     
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