DIY Electronic Leveller for Side to Side Levelling

Paul Wielgosz

Member
Dec 5, 2019
19
This is our First year with a Pop-UP and we have a set of anderson-like chocks that we use to level the side to side balance of our single axel trailer when parking it. As most of you know - this means finding your spot, pulling forward (or backing up slightly), placing the curved anderson-like chock under the lower wheel, and then backing up slowly (or pull forward slowly) onto the anderson-like chock, until the side to side level is good, and then setting the pairing chock into place. I was very uncomfortable with someone staring at the bubble level located on the hitch near the battery (between the Truck and the Trailer) as I was backing up and decided to make a simple electronic leveller out of an old Arduino that I had.

I threw together this little leveller for about $50 Canadian (a $30 Arduino Nano 33 BLE, Two Green/Red LEDs - $3, a Push Button Switch $1, an I2C EEPROM $1, and a Case $15, a 9V battery connector and a small board to solder it all on). This allows us to set this device on top of the Pop-Up when we find our spot, press on, and it will tell us which side is lower with a quick estimation of by how much (Green side is higher - Red Side is Lower, the Red LED will be solid if it is within a degree of tolerance and will flash faster if it is farther away from the level point. I can then climb back in the truck and slowly back into position while observing the LEDs. The lower side should be Red or Flashing Red and when climbing onto the anderson-like chock the Red LED should slow its blinking, Turn solid Red when almost correct, and when both LEDs are green I can stop and set the pairing chock and we are good.

I coded it so it can be calibrated to the levelness of your PopUp rooftop through the built-in Magnetic Field sensor that can detect the presence of a magnetically tip screwdriver on the backside when it is reset while on the top of the Pop-up.

The Leveller does require it to face to the front of the trailer so if you are turned tightly while getting to your final spot you may need help from and observer to tell you the state of the Red LED when moving to your final position.

I can post Pictures and the Code if anyone it interested.
 

Paul Wielgosz

Member
Dec 5, 2019
19
Pictures? Yes.
This is the simple diy unit. A couple of holes cut in the front for the LEDs (each a common Cathode Green/Red LED, a Reset Start Button on the Top (it will turn Off on it's own after 5 Minutes). This is a 4.25 inch by 2.5 inch by just over an inch high.
The LEDs are recessed back in the case and I used Furnace Metallic Tap with shiny side inward to create a highly reflective cone shape which makes the Red LED viewable in the sunlight (The Green LED is hard to see in sunlight but really the RED is all you care about).
full

This is the Guts - The arduino can talk bluetooth. the two LEDs (with Cones to increase their viewing), and an EEPROM under the lower cone and the reset switch beside the upper cone.
full
 
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Paul Wielgosz

Member
Dec 5, 2019
19
Schematic, please. Paul
Schematic is pretty straight forward.
9V to Arduino Nano 33 BLE - VIN & Ground.
4 Douts via 100 Ohm Resistors to the Two Common Cathode LEDs - to Ground
An I2C EEPROM (24AA32A in 8 Pin DIP) connected to 3.3V, Ground, SCL, and SDA (Address Pins & Write Protect tied to Ground)
A Reset button connect from RESET to Ground
 
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Paul Wielgosz

Member
Dec 5, 2019
19
Very cool
You beat the LevelMatePro by $100
https://logicbluetech.com/

I like doing it myself - Simple and Easy to understand - No App to watch - I am looking at the trailer in my mirrors anyways.

I also did a simple Tank Monitoring system with the Arduino and a Capacitance based measurement system (two metallic strips on the outside of the tank) for the Fresh Water and Grey Water tanks (Grey tank on the Fleetwood Highlanders is banana shaped and strange - need to fix the mounting for it and it will range better). The Black water is bit weird on the Sealand Toilet (a good chunk of capacity in the Piping to the Drain Valve and then a weirdly shaped holding Tank under the toilet). If I ever do it I will probably do capacitance again with the probes on the inside of a tube that gos where the battery two float probe alarm sensor is. Also has Load Cell monitoring of the Propane Tanks but I have not MacGiverd a way to sit each of the tanks on a load cell yet.
 
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Sneezer

Super Active Member
Aug 8, 2015
3,076
DFW, TX
Very cool. Not sure if it would work for me, my roof is domed, and I find myself having to back at tight angles a lot of the time, so I would never get to see it. Camping solo a lot means no help either.

I went with a BAL instead, which fit my specific needs best, as I can fine tune the angle to help direct A/C runoff to the back of the camper.
 

Clemens

Member
Nov 2, 2019
53
FL - Florida
I have 2 bubble levelers glued to the side anad level ffrom there. Usually I have the front raised by 1-2 degrees and the (driver) side lowered by 1-2 degrees. That way the water will run off at the rear right of the popup.
 

Anthony Hitchings

Super Active Member
Silver Supporting Member
Mar 2, 2019
3,946
Oakland, California
This is the simple diy unit. A couple of holes cut in the front for the LEDs (each a common Cathode Green/Red LED, a Reset Start Button on the Top (it will turn Off on it's own after 5 Minutes). This is a 4.25 inch by 2.5 inch by just over an inch high.
The LEDs are recessed back in the case and I used Furnace Metallic Tap with shiny side inward to create a highly reflective cone shape which makes the Red LED viewable in the sunlight (The Green LED is hard to see in sunlight but really the RED is all you care about).
View media item 11808This is the Guts - The arduino can talk bluetooth. the two LEDs (with Cones to increase their viewing), and an EEPROM under the lower cone and the reset switch beside the upper cone.
View media item 11809

I get a message about not having permission to look at your link content.
 

tombiasi

Super Active Member
Sep 1, 2012
6,773
Northwestern New Jersey
This is our First year with a Pop-UP and we have a set of anderson-like chocks that we use to level the side to side balance of our single axel trailer when parking it. As most of you know - this means finding your spot, pulling forward (or backing up slightly), placing the curved anderson-like chock under the lower wheel, and then backing up slowly (or pull forward slowly) onto the anderson-like chock, until the side to side level is good, and then setting the pairing chock into place. I was very uncomfortable with someone staring at the bubble level located on the hitch near the battery (between the Truck and the Trailer) as I was backing up and decided to make a simple electronic leveller out of an old Arduino that I had.

I threw together this little leveller for about $50 Canadian (a $30 Arduino Nano 33 BLE, Two Green/Red LEDs - $3, a Push Button Switch $1, an I2C EEPROM $1, and a Case $15, a 9V battery connector and a small board to solder it all on). This allows us to set this device on top of the Pop-Up when we find our spot, press on, and it will tell us which side is lower with a quick estimation of by how much (Green side is higher - Red Side is Lower, the Red LED will be solid if it is within a degree of tolerance and will flash faster if it is farther away from the level point. I can then climb back in the truck and slowly back into position while observing the LEDs. The lower side should be Red or Flashing Red and when climbing onto the anderson-like chock the Red LED should slow its blinking, Turn solid Red when almost correct, and when both LEDs are green I can stop and set the pairing chock and we are good.

I coded it so it can be calibrated to the levelness of your PopUp rooftop through the built-in Magnetic Field sensor that can detect the presence of a magnetically tip screwdriver on the backside when it is reset while on the top of the Pop-up.

The Leveller does require it to face to the front of the trailer so if you are turned tightly while getting to your final spot you may need help from and observer to tell you the state of the Red LED when moving to your final position.

I can post Pictures and the Code if anyone it interested.
Perhaps you can adapt a variable frequency tone generator to indicate the level to you without getting out of the vehicle.
 




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