Does this look right? Checklist for Goshen lift system cleaning and lubrication

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by Sweet Chariot, Feb 9, 2010.

  1. Sweet Chariot

    Sweet Chariot New Member

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    [RTM] Does this check-list seem correct? Are there any obvious errors or omissions? (For our 2004 Viking with a Goshen Lift System)

    Draft Goshen Lift System Cleaning and Lubrication Checklist:

    Grease the Zerks (1-2x a year):
    o There are two grease fittings located on the main assembly tube: one on the bottom side, toward the hitch end of the vehicle, and the second is located on the top side toward the rear of the vehicle.
    o At the beginning of each season use a grease gun and pump a quarter tube (~ 6 oz.) of general purpose grease (WHAT KIND OF GREASE EXACTLY?) to each end of the tube (on the zerk fittings) until grease appears around the cable

    Lubricate Lift Springs (1x every year or two):
    o Lubricate springs annually by cranking roof to up position. At each junction of telescoping post lubricate with 90 weight oil into the opening between two posts. Wipe off any excess oil on external position of post to avoid tent damage
    o Alternatively: There are four small tubes coming from the ends of the main assembly tube to each corner of the vehicle that encloses the lifting springs. Use a needle grease gun adapter and add a small amount of grease in the hole at the end that curves up to meet the bottom of the square telescoping tube assembly.

    Inspect and Lubricate Winch System (1x per year):
    o CAUTION: Make certain that you do not permit any lubricant to come in contact with the "clutch" brake mechanism (IS THIS EASY TO SPOT?)
    o Inspect winch for excessive wear on gears
    o The gears, reel shaft, and handle bearing or wear surfaces should be lubricated with water resistant grease (WHAT KIND OF GREASE EXACTLY). Other bearings and shafts may be lubricated with a light coating of oil or silicone spray.

    Silicone Spray (2-4x a year)
    o Go over all the pulleys, cables and every other part of the system that can be easily reached and lube with silicone spray.
    o Clean and spray the exterior lift posts with a rust prohibitive, non-drying, silicone lubricant. CAUTION: Put a piece of cardboard behind the posts when spraying to keep it off the canvas because this will de-waterproof canvas). After the spray has been applied, wait 10 to 15 minutes then carefully wipe the excess silicone off the tubes.
    o Spray the affixed BAL stabilizers too (WOULD GREASE BE BETTER? - MAYBE NOT, TOO MUCH DIRT MIGHT STICK ON)

    Thanks for any suggestions
     
  2. Crazycoleman

    Crazycoleman It is so much better when you wake up IN the pup!

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    I found the zerks on the main tube when I was under the trailer looking for floor rot. I pumped lots of grease into the main tube. I used Mystik Moly grease. I prefer Moly because it does a very good job of repelling water. It sure did make a huge difference in the lifting and lowering of our Skamper. It is a 78 model trailer, and I am sure Reagan was president the last time this thing was greased. As for other lubrication I found some "Liquid Wrench" brand aerosol dry lubricant made specifically for lubing the tracks on RV slideout units. It seemed to help some also.


    ROb
     
  3. campingranny

    campingranny Active Member

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    When I tried to squeeze grease into the little holes on the bottom of the tubes to lube the springs I couldn't get the point of the needle adapter into the hole, it seemed like something was obstructing it. Also when I hooked up to the zurks on the bottom of the camper the grease squirtted out around the zurk and nothing went inside. What was I doing wrong? Since then I have been spraying the lifter posts on the outside.and hope enough lubrication gets in there. As far as the zurks go I haven't done them. Anybody have any answers. Thanks in advance.
     
  4. TwistedElvis

    TwistedElvis New Member

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    You did not have the grease gun fitting properly on the zirk nipple.
    or you have a different size on your gun?
     
  5. campingranny

    campingranny Active Member

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    Thank you for your quick reply. I don't know. I went to the store and bought a grease gun. It popped on the zurk and I squeezed the trigger. I didn't know there were different sizes. How do I know what size?
     
  6. ogeer3

    ogeer3 New Member

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    This is just what I need to do when it warms up and dries out around here.
     
  7. dfab

    dfab New Member

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    Hi 2 things 1 I think the heads of the zerk are all the same just the threaded part can be different, The tip of the gun can be loosend or tightend to fit the zerk. 2 Some times the zerk can stick or fill with dirt, remove the zerk and clean it out and whear the zerk goes into that works 75% of the time good luck
     
  8. campingranny

    campingranny Active Member

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    Thanks, soon as the snow is below my knees I'll give it a try. If it doesn't work I"LL BE BACK [:D] [:D] with more questions
     
  9. Sweet Chariot

    Sweet Chariot New Member

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    Can I use the same grease gun on my E-Z-Lube axle? I guess I would use different types of grease? (High temp grease for the axle / something with "moly" for the lift system?

    Are there many types of grease gun zerk fittings? (Will go and try to buy a grease gun today)
     
  10. Sweet Chariot

    Sweet Chariot New Member

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    My lift system squeeks so loudly when I crank it - I think even butter would be an improvement, but hopeing to do it mostly right.
     
  11. Mountainbikecop

    Mountainbikecop Death Smiles At Everyone -- Marines Smile Back"

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    Re: Does this look right? Checklist for Goshen lift system cleaning and lubricat

    You may have to remove, clean and/or replace grease fittings, local hardware store should have them.
     
  12. phipps

    phipps Member

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    You can't get the needle in the hole because the lift spring is in there.

    Where did you get your directions from? I've always read those holes in the lift tubes are to allow any water that gets in to drain out.

    I just lube mine at the zerks on the main tube and spray silicone spray on the lift arms. If it hasn't been lubed in a while it can take quite a bit of grease.
     
  13. Sweet Chariot

    Sweet Chariot New Member

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    Re: Does this look right? Checklist for Goshen lift system cleaning and lubricat

    That part if the directions were from the Goshen site. The rest are taken from other posts on this site. I agree with you - focus on the main tube zerks and silicone the posts. The other parts are unclear to me.

    Just bought 2 different silicone sprays and 4 different types of grease and a grease gun to put these into practise.
     
  14. phoodieman

    phoodieman Active Member

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    First of all I think it's called a grease "zert", not a "zerk". If you are seeing grease coming out where you have the gun mated up to the zert, then you are not mated up all the way. The gun end of the connection will stay in place when you let go if it is mated up right. If you are mated up right and still not getting grease in then your zert is clogged. (Which I have never seen happen).

    You know you have put enough grease in the master tube when you see it coming out of the ends of the tube it self. I would bet that the majority of Goshen lift failures are from not greasing the master tube. Keep in mind that as you take the roof up and down grease is getting carried along the springs through the underside tubes and thus to the corners. Just by keeping the master tube properly filled you are covering %75 of the springs.

    You don't want to put ANY type of petroleum based product on the telescoping rods. Only silicone dry lubricants. (And I would recommend just spray type mediums). Petroleum products will stain the canvas.

    Phoodieman
     
  15. Sweet Chariot

    Sweet Chariot New Member

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    Well, that was not too bad. Just finished lubricating most of the lift system - grease gunned into the zerks/zerts, which was a bit more work than expected, because it needed so much grease (used a lithium complex with moly) and siliconed all the posts (did not use any 90 wt grease on the posts).

    Didn't do anything else yet. Still not sure how to (or if I should) do anything to the crank/winch area. Something still squeaks loudly near the back - maybe still the posts? (but used lots of silicone) or the pulley underneath near the back (forgot to silicone this). Also found the four holes in the corner spring tubes, but didnt try adding grease in those yet.
     
  16. Jumanji

    Jumanji Beautiful BC

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    Mine squeaks pretty badly too. I did grease the zerks and sprays the lift post but it didn't do anything to stop the squeak. Will try some of the above suggestions to see if I can quiet it down some.
     
  17. Sweet Chariot

    Sweet Chariot New Member

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    Re: Does this look right? Checklist for Goshen lift system cleaning and lubricat

    Good news - our PUP's cranking up/down squeaking noises used to sound like a dozen cats fighting, but now, after greasing the pulley underneath at the middle of the back the squeak is gone. Finally...

    Used spray white lithium grease.
     
    Old ackpacker likes this.
  18. Jumanji

    Jumanji Beautiful BC

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    With the help of my mom I was able to determine that my squeaking is coming from the lifter springs. I've tried spraying in the joints of the lift posts and it hasn't done anything to stop the squeaking. I'm going to try the zerks again but last time it didn't seem to help at all. The last step is to try and get some grease into the holes in the tube corner. The springs do obscure the holes but I'm hoping I can position it just right and be able to get the needle in there. I just have to find a needle adapter for my grease gun first.
     
  19. aslag

    aslag Pacific Northwest

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    The patent for the Zerk fitting was granted to Oscar Zerk in January 1929. Zerk's tiny grease fitting became the lubrication system used on nearly every car, truck, plane and other mechanized vehicle. At the time of his death in 1968, it was estimated that 20 billion of those fittings had been manufactured.
     
  20. mcbrew

    mcbrew Member

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    I had this discussion with someone a while back. After looking up information on it, it turns out that Zerk is the proper term. The patent for the fitting was issued to Oscar Zerk. Just FYI.

    EDIT: I should have gone to page 2 of this thread before replying. My bad!
     

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