The new Marshall Excelsior regulator installed just fine. Leak tested it and saw nothing bubbling out. This one does have a port on the side (i realize the old one had a port on the other side, but it was recessed with an Allan screw. This one is a hex nut).
I'm currently running the fridge on 120v to get it nice and cold, and i'm also monitoring the temperatures out the back on the fins as i'm going to do the fan mod. (right above the boiler, the temps were over 230F!) I happen to have a lot of low power silent pc fans (0.12A, 73cfm, 140mm, 0.3 sonne) that will work great off the 12v connector at the back of the fridge.
I should do the baffle mod too, but i'm having a hard time finding any good pictures of how-to's online of what people did. Anyone have some good posts to reference? Do I have to remove the fridge to install one or can you slip it around the fins? Any ideas on what material to use?
there is very little distance between the top and bottom vent for a good chimney effect. Long chimneys have better draft. This one seems simple, narrows the gap, directs air flow to the fins and makes a chimney. The sides (at top) could be closed off also forcing any convection to the fins. There is a (searchable "dometic fridge fan thermostat") thermostat disk to attach to the fin to turn a fan on/off. Others hopefully will supply the best on/off temp!
I'll have to find a suitable material to make a baffle out of and i'll have to play around with fan positioning. With PC's the fan is usually directly on the heatsink, but i don't know if that would work the best in this application.
Page 3 of 3 - Fridge Fan Exhaust - posted in Four Wheel Camper Discussions: CDW, Sorry for the late reply, I've been camping. The fridge came from FWC with the perforated metal wind shield and I added and then edited the white plastic cardboard. The two red LEDs are the on off switches for...
If you go to Wander the West, where the above post came from, there are several discussions on it including some input from Four Wheel Campers themselves. At the time, and maybe still, FWC installed fridge fans at the factory.
"Fig. 2-2. When positive pressure is applied to one leg, the liquid is forced down in that leg and up in the other. The difference in height, "h," which is the sum of the readings above and below zero, indicates the pressure."
Fig. 2-2. When positive pressure is applied to one leg, the liquid is forced down in that leg and up in the other. The difference in height, "h," which is the sum of the readings above and below zero, indicates the pressure.
Should add that you'd need a manometer that's good for propane, so at least 14wc needed. The most you can do with ^^ is 8wc.
If someone was going to do this DIY, I'd get one of these... just tap the gauge to really know where it "settles" as they can be a little sticky after adjustments. Added bonus is it comes with the fitting that'll work for 99% of regulators out there.