Electric lift cutting out going UP

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by Tercox, Jul 2, 2018.

  1. Tercox

    Tercox New Member

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    We are new to the pop-up trailer camping world and just took our new to us 2010 Viking pop-up trailer out for a weekend trip. The electric lift works fine when going down, but it takes over an hour and a half to get it up because the power cuts out after only raising the roof an inch each time. We waited 5 mins and got the same result. Of course when we tried it out from the person we bought it from it work just fine. Unfortunately for us, we have tried it twice with the same result. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what night be at the root of it? Any and all thoughts would be most welcome.
     
  2. jmkay1

    jmkay1 2004 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah Gold Supporting Member

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    . I'm not 100% sure, but I think the electric lift needs a fully charged battery. If your battery is low it may not work as well.
     
  3. McFlyfi

    McFlyfi Well-Known Member

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    As above, make sure the battery is charged. Don't just assume it is, check it, either with a hydrometer (preferred) or a volt meter.
    You may have a self resetting circuit breaker in line with the battery, if so, it could be going bad.

    Check your frame ground, and check the ground for the motor. Check the wiring between the battery and the motor, look for bad connections/breaks/wear. Check the voltage at the motor while it is running, are you getting 12.6 volts?

    Is the motor wired directly to the battery, or does the power go to the distribution center and then to the motor? You may have a bad connection between the battery and the power distribution center, or a bad connection between the power center and the motor.

    Do your other DC appliances work (water pump, lights...)?
     
  4. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    Mine is wired directly to the battery, I agree it sounds like low voltage. Mine was slow lifting until I took it apart and greased the large screw, (I have since drilled, tapped and inserted a grease fitting. Coming down is easy as you have the weight of the top to assist.
    hope you get it figured out. Good luck and Happy camping
     
  5. Firehawk068

    Firehawk068 Active Member

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    Mine is wired exactly as stated above (with a self-resetting circuit-breaker bank of two, attached with a Brass blade on the battery post)
    Mine would cut power about halfway up as the circuit-breakers would get hot and shut off.
    I found that I had not tightened the connection to the battery tight enough, and was the cause of my issue.
    Take the blade off and use some fine sandpaper or a wire brush and clean the corrosion off it.
    Re-install it FIRST on the battery post, then put your other wire(s) on top of it, then a small washer, and then the wing-nut to tighten everything down. Make sure you have it tight enough so that you cannot wiggle any of the wires or the circuit-breaker blade.
    Do the same with the connections on the Negative battery post.
     
  6. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    Low voltage increases the amp draw of the motor and will trip circuit breakers, which will reset themselves. It takes several minutes for the breaker to cool down and reset
     
  7. rerspain

    rerspain Active Member

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    Sounds like a bad electric lift motor. Mine used to do the same thing til I replaced it. Use a drill in the emergency hand crank port.

    2010 lift motors were the worm drive type that had problems.
     
  8. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    Mine did the same. The manual for my pup says to lower stabilizers before using the electric winch but I just discovered this weekend that if I lift the roof before I put the stabilizers down, the motor has a MUCH easier time lifting the roof with no stoppages.

    Apparently, even the slightest twist of the frame make it harder for the lifter arms to do their job..

    Like others have stated, also check the battery power and make sure the pup is level.
     
  9. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    Before you condemn the motor, clamp an amp meter on and see how many amps it is pulling. and as stated above clean and check the wiring going to the motor.
     
  10. annrkissed

    annrkissed New Member

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    I just bought a 2011 Viking with the same issue. I replaced the battery and saw no difference. I am suspecting that it is a bad motor. I'll check into getting the winch that will lift with an electric drill.
     
  11. mattlreese

    mattlreese Active Member

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    This is a question for the group, rather then a response. Can you hook up the pup to the car via the 7 pin and then run the lift with the car on?
     
  12. McFlyfi

    McFlyfi Well-Known Member

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    Yes. The 7 pin (assuming wired correctly with a hot charge line) should provide 13+ volts.
     
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  13. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    You are correct in theory that you will have the needed volts.... but the charge line will not supply enough amps. Disconnect the battery and put a voltmeter on the charge line/lift motor and try to raise the roof, you will be surprised as to how low the volts will drop
     
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  14. McFlyfi

    McFlyfi Well-Known Member

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    Based on my actual experience (multiple times, prior to running bigger wire directly to the current limiter/motor), connecting to my truck will raise (and lower) my roof when the trailers battery couldn't do it on its own.
     
  15. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    How many does the motor pull? Mine had 2-50 amp breakers. How large of a cable did you run? 2 gauge? Trailer light connector is just good for around 30 amps.
     
  16. McFlyfi

    McFlyfi Well-Known Member

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    I ran 10g wire from the original circuit location directly to the current limiter.
    I measured the amp draw by putting a video camera inside the trailer pointing at the Trimetric monitor. This was prior to the re-wire. In reviewing the tape, the draw varied, but it was never more than 6 amps.
    2 50amp breakers seems like way overkill. The converter in my trailer has nothing over 30a in terms of breakers or fuses. The fuse on the lift circuit is 30a from the factory The self resetting breaker at the battery is also 30a.
    I can't imagine that under normal operation the motor draws any more than 12-15 amps.
     
  17. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    I have saw 75 amp draws, and have had breakers trip on the way up, plus there were 125 amp maxi fuses in the wiring, between the switch and motor, besides the 2 50Amp breakers at the battery. Mine had 6ga wire. All of this was from the factory. The converter had 30 amp breakers as the max. Just curious as to what the locked rotor amps would be. Glad you can get away with a 15amp draw
     
  18. Grandpa Don

    Grandpa Don Well-Known Member

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    Did you get this fixed? If not, here are my suggestions. I don't think it is an electrical problem! It sound to me like something in the lift system is binding causing the resettable circuit breaker to trip. I would make sure that the system is well lubricated, and that the cable return pulley is not locked up. Just my 2 cents.
     

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