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Discussion in 'Let me tell you about my trip' started by clif and sandra, Jul 20, 2019.
And it was that bad?? have any pictures ?
I second the bal leveler. In a really unlevel site, it may not raise up high enough, but it doesn't take up much room and can add some elevation. (sort of heavy though)
***Keep a pick axe w/ you next time, chop out & level, fill back in when you leave
If your chocks aren't tight, just push them in as far as you can and then wege a peice of wood under the chock on the back end. This will tighten it up.
No I didn't think to take any. I was sweating my a-- off lol
When putting chauks in I use a mallet to get them seated tight . Then I release the car from the trailer and the tire hugs the chauk more. I do use a chauk on the Lego blocks the trick is to get the edge under the tire. Then snug all four stabilizers to the ground giving another turn after you hit ground. You may still feel some movement when you walk or laying in bed but it's just the energy you are feeling, the camper isn't moving.
Not that I’ve had to do this, but in a pinch this might work. How about a plastic cup or small bowl with some water in it. I have a set of old timey plastic camping coffee cups, inherited from my fil that came with his well seasoned Palomino Stallion, that also serve as measuring cups. They are marked on the inside with various measurements. Thinking half full and eyeball the the distance to gain by resting one edge of the cup on the high side of the roof and raising the other edge until the water is level inside the cup, then guestimating the drop on the low end. That should give you and estimate of how much you need to raise the low end.
I know, I know, that doesn’t help now, but my mind was working overtime. Would be an interesting experiment the next time. Anyway with all that said, my set up box has a 2ft level in it that I use in the same manner.
I carry a small level in my tool box, My chocks are 2X4 with a 45 degree angle on the ends, I also carry 4 2X8 X12" blocks for stabilizer platforms, and a 2X8 3' long with a 2X8 18" screwed in to of the long one , painted and sand applied while still wet, then another coat of paint when the sandy coated has dried. Has worked on TT, PUP's, Mh and ever other RV I have owned. However in a pinch I could use a clear measuring cup with the measurement on it for a level.
I still like the sand idea.
you can use partially filled water bottle to level the rig, just use the rings around the bottle as a guide. The phone app works well too, as does an extra small level in a storage container.
love the water bottle idea!
A can of beer on it's side will tell if it's level. If it rolls....well you get it. I suppose a can of soda would work as well but I don't drink soda.
In construction there is a "line leveler". It is a cheap level that has 2 hooks and could be hung on twine to see if the twine is level. Available at any hardware, big box, ChinaMart, ect. It has 2 feet for sitting on floors. About 3" long. Put a piece of Velcro on it and place by door. There's your backup level.
<<If the ground is sloping that much side to side under a wheel and the blocks, which means the Legos are also sloping, is it really safe to use it that way as long as there's 2 chocks on the wheel on top of the Legos?>>>
Had all the Legos on the right side with the tire balanced on one sloping Lego. The nose would swing when unhitched. Couldn't get chocks on the right tire. The next trip I had a solution. Rip up a 2"X4" roughly 10" long. What you are making is a hole big enough to slide the nose wheel in framed with 2"x4". Turn the wheel so it is straight back. The 2x4 acts as a chock so the wheel doesn't roll. The 2x4 digs in the resist the side ways pressure to swing the nose.
What about that one thing that we all seem to carry. Yes there is an app for this. Bubble level on my cell phone.