Fresh coat of paint.

[Mitch Guthrie]

2002 Jayco Qwest 8U
In an attempt to clean the pup with what I have on hand, I’ve come to the decision that a paint job is in order.
What to use ??
I’m considering Flex Seal for the top that has Aluminum instead of plastic or Fiberglass. A trip to Hobby Lobby for some tint. Cut some of that bright white down.
It’s the sides, plus front and rear that I’m questioning.
Oil enamel.
What sticks best.
And to add to that question, was product is best to “ prepare “ surface.
All panels are not smooth.
Of those who own similar pup’s know what the surface is.
Spray on ? No, not worth it.
Brush, or roller ? Yeah, better.
I’ve found replacement emblems and other appliqués.
Just want to hide some age on this pup.

Suggestions.

 

[kcsa75]

DON'T USE FLEX SEAL!

It won't hold up. In a couple or three months you'll have a mess on your hands. You'd be better off using truck bed liner.

As for the body, I'm a fan of Rustoleum. They make a product that's paint and primer in one can. It works pretty well.

 

[Bullfrog Bheer]

We just painted ours this summer. Had the body shop paint the roof as that is such a big panel. Did the rest in my garage one side every weekend. To clean/sand the panels for the new paint to stick, we completely scrubbed each panel with red 3M Scotchbrite pads with water and Comet til it was completely dull with no shiny spots. Then to paint I used Rustoleum aerosol cans. That is some seriously sticky paint. With the prep work, that ain't coming off ever. Only downside to Rustoluem spray cans is it sprays with just a circle pattern and not a wide pattern like a spray gun would, which makes it harder to get good even coverage and not have stripes. The key is to have good light so you can see the reflection as you're spraying it. Here's a picture of the first side after I painted it, before stripes. The amazing thing to me is even though the roof was painted with PPG automotive paint and the sides were done with rustoleum spray cans, the color matches perfectly and to the original color too.

 

[neighbormike]

Looks great!

 

[kcsa75]

We just painted ours this summer. Had the body shop paint the roof as that is such a big panel. Did the rest in my garage one side every weekend. To clean/sand the panels for the new paint to stick, we completely scrubbed each panel with red 3M Scotchbrite pads with water and Comet til it was completely dull with no shiny spots. Then to paint I used Rustoleum aerosol cans. That is some seriously sticky paint. With the prep work, that ain't coming off ever. Only downside to Rustoluem spray cans is it sprays with just a circle pattern and not a wide pattern like a spray gun would, which makes it harder to get good even coverage and not have stripes. The key is to have good light so you can see the reflection as you're spraying it. Here's a picture of the first side after I painted it, before stripes. The amazing thing to me is even though the roof was painted with PPG automotive paint and the sides were done with rustoleum spray cans, the color matches perfectly and to the original color too.

Well done.

 

[Jenkamus]

My husband used automotive paint to paint ours. We did the trim in black and the roof and body panels in a white to match my tow vehicle.

 

[Mitch Guthrie]

Great looking pop ups y’all have.
Automotive paint ?
Acrylic Enamel ?
Before paint application did you reseal all seams ?
I’m about to do the same with a 20 year old Jayco.
Solid unit, but old looking.
What “ caulking” materials were used.
any and all info welcomed.

Thanks

 

[Bullfrog Bheer]

I actually caulked all the seams on the roof a few years back. The corner caps had cracks (which you couldn't find new) so I recaulked everything. Probably caulked some seams that didn't need it, but I'm OCD that way. At that time I used 3M marine caulk 5200. It has held up very well since I did it. Last winter, I was actually able to get new corner caps. The new caps were arctic white and didn't match the color, so that's when I decided to finally pull the trigger and repaint. I had the body shop I used to work at spray the roof. I did the rest in my garage one side per weekend. This time I used 3M 4200 caulk when I did the corner caps. Very happy with that caulk.
It all started with just replacing the caps. Then I gotta paint the roof......might as well repaint the sides......Now I gotta get new decals made. It all snowballed. Took the bag awning in just yesterday to a canvas and awning place to get a new one made.

 

[WoodySolarVan]

If looking for just some pop I'd suggest just using a Acrylic Latex that has the primer built in. I used Behr on mine for the base coat.

If the fiberglass is oxidized don't go crazy on the sanding just hit the dirt spots and gloss areas with 80 grit.


However, what does make the difference is pulling all the hardware before painting. Time consuming but if you tape it up, that edge is where the paint will start to peel.. plus it'll be good to remount items using butyl tape assuring decades of no leaks.


Regards to not smooth...I wouldn't bother trying to smooth - fresh coat of paint and it'll be only you that notice. I only smoothed out the patch I did on mine (hole / crack on forward driver's side)...

If you want that automotive gloss. Final coat put three thin coats of a good quality urethane. Then remount hardware...

 

[vbalgal]

2002 Jayco Qwest 8U
In an attempt to clean the pup with what I have on hand, I’ve come to the decision that a paint job is in order.
What to use ??
I’m considering Flex Seal for the top that has Aluminum instead of plastic or Fiberglass. A trip to Hobby Lobby for some tint. Cut some of that bright white down.
It’s the sides, plus front and rear that I’m questioning.
Oil enamel.
What sticks best.
And to add to that question, was product is best to “ prepare “ surface.
All panels are not smooth.
Of those who own similar pup’s know what the surface is.
Spray on ? No, not worth it.
Brush, or roller ? Yeah, better.
I’ve found replacement emblems and other appliqués.
Just want to hide some age on this pup.

Suggestions.

Hey there. We have the same model and just did a makeover. I bought the primer and paint at Lowes. I will get you the names

 

[Mitch Guthrie]

That's AWESOME !!
Paint on the wood ??
Please tell me what and how..
Everything in the before looks similar. Including the Washer and Dryer. LoL.
But y'all did a fantastic job . WoW !!
Refrigerator.... What model and from Whom ?? 12V & 120 ??

 

[vbalgal]

That's AWESOME !!
Paint on the wood ??
Please tell me what and how..
Everything in the before looks similar. Including the Washer and Dryer. LoL.
But y'all did a fantastic job . WoW !!
Refrigerator.... What model and from Whom ?? 12V & 120 ??

Hi Mitch

The wood is really cheap stuff. I am thinking MDF? I checked it first and found a few places that were knicked/scratched, so those were filled with wood putty. Next I sanded lightly and was careful to clean well so there was no dust. I used a vacuum with a brush hose to clean really well. Next I used a really great oil primer called Zinsser. You can buy it at Lowes. I primed 2 coats using a small roller. I let it dry really well between priming and also sanded lightly between coats, making sure I cleaned really well. Last was a good oil based paint. Lowes again. I changed some of the handles on the drawers to black. And sprayed the refrigerator front and vent covers black to match the new handles. I took the curtains down and the new ones were sewn in a nicer color and rehung with the existing curtain clips. I basically cut that piece of fabric with those clips and sewed the new fabric right over the front. I love the new colors. It was work but I think I did everything in 3 weekends. That way everything dried well. The refrigerator came with one unit. I will check the name. It makes a huge difference once you see the end results. Yes painting the wood was scary..but I taped, prepped and took my time.

 

[PopAnimal]

I never took before pics, but I am finishing up my peel and stick tiles. Interior was factory formica over the press board and behr paint in two or three coats did a good cover. Three different colors. Spray painted all of my covers, and went wacky and top coated with glow in the dark gloss. Ran a strip of led lights that can run off a USB power pack under the lip of the galley. Have to get someone to sew up the black velvet bunkend curtains and I am thinking black velvet upolstery for seats. Once I finish that, I will roll rustoliem elastomeric over the roofs Grizzly Grip and see about painting the exterior. Depending on how good the elastomeric is, I may use it on the front/back ABS (if it is tintable) and spray some good auto paint on the aluminium sides.

 

[Mitch Guthrie]

Post pictures as you go along. Would like to know what was used on the roof

Good luck

 

[PopAnimal]

Post pictures as you go along. Would like to know what was used on the roof

Good luck

@Mitch, i started with Gizzly Grip, its great stuff but pricy. Theres lots of tips and tricks to maximizing its efficiency, that you can find on you tube. After the Grizzly Grip, I rolled rustolieum elastomeric roof coating for added measure.

 

[Mitch Guthrie]

Why the “ need” for the Grizzly Grip product ?
Extra added coating ??
I’ve got, actuality had, a leak and slapped a piece of some super sealant tape on it. I now have a lifetime supply of that product.
I am going to coat the roof with a elastomeric coating I can purchase at Hopeless Despot. 1/2” roller and get busy.

My other upgrades will include wiring repairs for Tow Vehicles, 12v exhaust fan and 12v/120 v fridge.
When pop up was purchased it came with a “ dorm” fridge and portable AC. Both have to laid down to transport.
Dorm fridge gone.
Exhaust fan will have a flange for exhaust from AC unit and condensate out the hole from the “cooler” .
Remove all stickers on outside.
Install 120v GF outlets outside
Derusto or Rustoleum
New stickers

Go camping

 

[PopAnimal]

The reason I started with Grizzly grip was reading stuff on here about the dreaded coleman ABS roof that I ripped off. Grizzly seemed to have the best opinion and rigidity. It is definately a ridgid base. Over all the price point of me coating and coating to get the desired level of smoothness would have cost me an arm and a dozen eggs. I went with rustoleium elastomeric roof coating to top it off and 1/2'' nap and i have done about 5 whole coats with 1/2 a gal. $40-50 range. A lot of people go with Henrys tropicool as well, still $120 a gal here, which is about $10 less than a gal and a half of Griz. I had ABS over foam, so i wanted something to prevent denting on the foam when I had to get on the roof and Griz did that. If you have an aluiminum, i dont see why you couldnt just use elastomeric roof coat.

As far as exterior stickers, I used a blowdryer because they were so old and stuck that a heat gun even on low turned them into shrinky dinks. and if you plan on repainting, jasco premium paint and epoxy remover will remove stickers, and glue, and paint and fingertips. lol

 

[KeizerTrailer]

Our 2000 Qwest 8U is showing it's age as the previous owners clearly had no concept of maintenance on an RV. Rewired all the clearance lighting and tow wiriing. This last summer I coated the roof box with elastomeric coating, then reinstalled the aluminum trim, got it all sealed up. No more leaks! I used the Dicor Elastomeric coating, cost around $40 on Amazon for a gallon and still have a bunch leftover. The summer before that, Had to tear the back wall apart as the leaks from the roof caused water damage. It's all back together. We got the interior refreshed and hung new canvas(original canvas was shot). This fall I stripped all of the old vinyl striping off with the intent to paint the box. The plan is to use a purpose dedicated outdoor metal paint, going to use Behr Direct-to-Metal Paint. Once I get around to it, I can post some photos if you would like to see.

 

[riderfungirl64]

I would love to see it, I have a 2000 10v qwest

 

[Mitch Guthrie]

Same here. I'd like to see pictures also. Before also?