Goshen lift post replacement

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by mread5, Jun 10, 2016.

  1. mread5

    mread5 New Member

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    has anyone ever replaced a Goshen square (1473 I believe) lift post on their camper before. I have 2 bad corner posts, one which needs replaced before I can do anything else with the camper. Not being able to see how they mount either on my existing pup, or in the parts order form, I purchased them - now that they have arrived, I see that the mounting plates are on the top side of the posts, but my PUP doesn't have any such visible mounting plates, so I assume they are under the sill plate that runs the entire side of the camper

    Do I need to remove this plate (which doubles as the bed track and is also what the canvas attaches to) in order to replace the post?

    1994 Palomino Filly LB
     
  2. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    I see you have a '94 Palomino. Are you sure you have the Goshen lift and not the L&W lift system?

    L&W has square lift posts. Look under the camper. Is there conduit running to each lift post? If so, it's a Goshen lift, if not, it's L&W.
     
  3. mread5

    mread5 New Member

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    definitely Goshen I think - no clue what the L&W is, but since my first repairs using hardware store purchases, I've ordered actual goshen replacements, and they came today - everything matches.

    there is steel conduit going from the main spring tube to the corner posts

    adding picture of where the current post meets the sill plate, and another of the new replacement post
     

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  4. mread5

    mread5 New Member

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    decided to get brave and start taking things apart....yes, I have to remove the sill to get to the mouting bracket.

    for anyone else who happens across this, here is a picture that helps clarify
     

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  5. mread5

    mread5 New Member

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    I don't know how the dealers would do it properly, but I was able to replace the corner post by doing the following:

    1. remove the screws from the top of the sill plate (including the one snap button next to the door)
    2. remove the screws from the bottom inside edge (under where the bed slides into) inside the camper
    3. Installed the other 3 safety bars on the lift posts (manufacture only supplies 2 - I purchased 2 extra from Goshen so I can have one in all corners when using it)
    4. I already had a 4x4 post holding the bad corner of my camper up - I cut it to length to prop it up from ground to the roof.
    5. "lowered" the roof - the roof actually stayed in place, but this allowed me to push the corner post down, pushing the springs back into the main tube
    6. make sure Velcro on canvas is not attached to slide out bed, and remove the inside pole that holds the upper tent part out over the bed
    7. raise the sill plate to get it over the top of the corner post
    8. remove screws attaching corner post to camper, and lift old post out.
    9. Installation is the reverse of removal. (I always wanted to say that....thanks Hayne's)

    this was for the side with the door. the other side I assume will require the following differences:
    1. canvas will have to be disconnected from sill plate (maybe not a big deal for most, but I think this is the most fragile and most expensive part of the camper, so I don't like messing with it much)
    2. both corners on the other side will need to be propped up in order to remove the sill plate over the top of both posts
     
  6. hawkdriver1974

    hawkdriver1974 Learning to love/hate my pop-up.

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    Thank you! I have to bent rear posts and was afraid I'd have to take the cabinets out. This is the best post of the few I've seen that explain how to take out the lifting posts on a Goshen system.

    I have a 1998 Forest River Rockwood, model 1904.

    Couple quick questions:

    1. Do you agree this exterior trim looks similar to yours?
    2. Did you use a specific sealant around the posts after you reinstalled the trim?

    TIA.
     

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  7. mread5

    mread5 New Member

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    1 - similar, yes - same, no - looks like your canvas attaches differently, but the outside part in your picture looks the same - not sure about the inside part on your camper - if it attaches the same as mine.
    2 - mine had no apparant sealant before, so I added none when I put it back together. I don't see why any manufacturer would put something there - unless that is more an adhesive, rather than a sealant. I would think the sealant would be pretty easily defeated by the telescoping post - many opportunities for water / moisture to get in. Mine was more or less open on the top and the bottom. The top just had the sill plate over the top of the post mounting bracket, and the bottom is pretty much a round peg in a square hole (spring tube has circular indention that fits into the bottom of the square post)
     
  8. phoodieman

    phoodieman Active Member

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    If you have a Goshen style lift system the telescoping lifts don't seal. There is a weep hole at the bend on all four corners of the lift spring tubes, (Located below the camper), to allow water to escape if it leaches down.

    Phoodieman
     
  9. hawkdriver1974

    hawkdriver1974 Learning to love/hate my pop-up.

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    The sealant I was referring to goes around the post where it meets the aluminum trim. Not on each leg of the lifting post. But thanks for clarifying.
     
  10. 97Widerider

    97Widerider Making Memories

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    So happy I found this post. I am in the process of replacing two lift arms on the left side of my Viking camper, this is the side opposite the door. Anyway, for those who have done this and posted here, do the beds have to be extended out for this or do they stay pushed in the camper? Also, how much pressure did it take to push down the springs so you could collapse the arms so you could raise the sill plate over the post? Thanks a million.
     
  11. mread5

    mread5 New Member

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    I had mine up with beds out. I had a safety post in each corner, then I let the winch out and pushed the bad post down about a third of the way. My bad corner was supported by spare lumber post down to the concrete below. The left side would be trickier, having to replace both at the same time.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
     
  12. hawkdriver1974

    hawkdriver1974 Learning to love/hate my pop-up.

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    HTH.
     
  13. 97Widerider

    97Widerider Making Memories

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    Yes, having to change the posts on the left side does present a little more of a tricky situation with having to lift the cap up and over two at the same time. I plan on using my metal safety posts to use on the opposing side and two 4x4s on the side I am working with. I just worry about roof sway with the A/C unit on top. However, if four skinny posts and a skinny spring can hold up the roof without sway, why couldn't the way I am planning.

    I am curious as to how far down you were able to push your springs once disconnected from the roof. I am also curious as to this "V" shaped clip that I was told by Goshen will be at the bottom of the sections to remove to allow the sections to separate. I am just replacing the inner most post (one with the metal tab that attaches to roof mounting bracket) and will have to separate them. Lastly, do you have to pop out aluminum rivets that hold the cap on at each corner. Mine have a rubber corner on them that I will destroy trying to separate the side cap from where it means the front and back cap.

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions, tips, or advice.
     
  14. hawkdriver1974

    hawkdriver1974 Learning to love/hate my pop-up.

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  15. 97Widerider

    97Widerider Making Memories

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    After examining mine last night, I see that I might have to do this as well. The bolt looks like it is in a channel between the two. Once out, is this difficult to put back together? It looks like it may have a few washers and bushings etc that will fall out.

    Ok, the quote didn't come out but I was referencing disconnecting the bed rail from the aluminum cap that must be lifted up over the posts.
     
  16. hawkdriver1974

    hawkdriver1974 Learning to love/hate my pop-up.

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  17. hawkdriver1974

    hawkdriver1974 Learning to love/hate my pop-up.

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    A pic of the v-shaped spacer you were asking about.

    Also, I used an old tube and some locking pliers to keep the tubes from sliding down and knocking out the spacer.
     

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  18. Jesse biggs

    Jesse biggs New Member

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    I have knocked this v shaped spacer out any idea on how to push back up in place
     
  19. Hoyt Burrass

    Hoyt Burrass New Member

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    This post covers it all...I just completed this job on a 2000 Rockwood today...read it, figure out what it actually says in relation to your Pup and then follow it...I would consider it a two-person job though...somebody to watch and stabilize the bunk ends as you work with the sill plate to gain access...See Photos
    IMG_3731.jpg IMG_3733.jpg
     
  20. Robert Hornung

    Robert Hornung New Member

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    I'm building a new roof for my Dutchmen 1204 camper. My camper has the Goshen 1473 series lift posts like the ones shown here. I'm ready to attach the sides to the roof brackets. The problem is that if I attach the wood sides to the roof brackets, if I lower the the lift posts all the way down, the wood sides would sit on the camper rail instead of outside and below the top of the camper. All for lift posts and brackets are the same way. So, do I try to bend the top of the all 4 lift posts and roof brackets so they are even with the outside of the camper all or do I not completely lower the lift posts all the way down? Neither seems like the right thing to me. Any info would be great. Thanks.
     

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