Hardware for 12v connections

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by mboehler, May 12, 2014.

  1. mboehler

    mboehler Member

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    Hey everyone,

    As part of my rebuild, I've replaced the 6pin square connector with a 7 pin round connector. I'm utilizing the 12V AUX wiring from the TV to the pup. I'm going to add a deep cycle battery to the PUP and connect that to the 12V system as well. Currently the only 12V devices in the PUP are the lights and the refrigerator. But the refrigerator will run on 120V AC most of the time since we mostly camp at places with hookups.

    So I have the 12V and Ground wires coming from the 7 pin connector into the area under the bench seat that has the converter. I figure I will put a battery in here as well since there is space (need an AGC battery for this, right?). I have the 12V & Ground wires from the refrigerator coming in here, and I also have the 12V & Ground wires from the lights (ceiling lights and also porch light).

    My question is, whats the best way to physically connect all these? I'm not sure what it's called, but I was thinking to get two of those metals bars with the screws in them. Connect all the grounds to one bar and all the 12Vs to the other bar. Is this a good plan? What would be better?

    I will also put a circuit breaker between the TV and the wiring inside. Is that correct? What amperage breaker do you guys suggest? 20A? 30A?

    Do I need fuses in between the converter/battery and the lights and between the converter/battery and the fridge as well?

    This is the kind of bar I'm thinking about. If I go this route, where's the best place to get these? Radio Shack or somewhere else locally? Somewhere online?
    [​IMG]

    Thanks everyone! I love this site!
     
  2. Mudfoot

    Mudfoot New Member

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    Not sure if it will apply to what you are trying to do, but if you are looking to keep things somewhat modular I highly recommend Anderson Powerpole connectors. They are popular among the amateur radio crowd and I have adapted my PUP 12v battery, charger, and lots of other 12v stuff around the house to use these so connections are interchangeable, safe, and somewhat 'idiot-proof." I have fused leads attached to my PUP battery that terminate in Powerpoles and then put matching Powerpoles on the wiring that goes from my PUP to the battery. Makes quick work of installing/removing the battery.

    The bus bar you show may be a good way to gather your grounds, but I would never leave a wide open bar like that for hot connections. If you can find a shielded version that may be a fair way to distribute your hots. Make sure to fuse everything appropriately and if you do think the Powerpoles work in your situation make sure and use the appropriate gauge wire and connectors to match.

    As far as keeping a battery inside the PUP you may need to consider whether or not a sealed AGM will be a good substitute for a real flooded deep cycle mounted outside the PUP. Pretty sure the flooded battery may not be the best choice inside especially if it will remain there when charging as some offgassing will occur when you charge it. I'm sure others will chime in shortly on this and likely offer you some other/better alternatives. Just throwing the connectors out there as they are handy for 'thinking ahead' when you may want to add other things to your system.

    Link to Powerpoles: http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html
     
  3. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    That buss bar should only be used for ground connection, it is unprotected.
     
  4. mboehler

    mboehler Member

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    Those Anderson Powerpole connectors look pretty nice. I might have to see if I can locate some. Do you need special tools to attach the connectors to the wires?

    I see your points about not using the bar for the 12V connections. What is a better alternative? Is there a project box or something that can be used? I'd rather not just have several wires twisted, soldered, and taped together if possible.

    Thanks for the advice!
     
  5. tenttrailer

    tenttrailer Art & Joyce - Columbus, O

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    You should install in the TV a 20 or 30 amp self resetting fuse on the battery line, depending on wire gage used. You can buy them at just about any auto parts store. 12 TV battery line in the camper should go to the battery.

    Battery in the camper: Yes an AGM battery will work. Or a lead acid battery with a sealed battery box and vented outside will work.
     
  6. mboehler

    mboehler Member

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    Ooh! What do you guys think of this?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. capy235co

    capy235co Member

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    Have you bought your converter yet? It would seem to me that it will be the controlling factor as to how you do the wiring.

    I would want the battery outside on the front a frame area. Easier to deal with and no acidic fumes as the battery charges.

    Both RV and Boat suppliers have very nice power distribution panels that are very attractive and easy to attach accessories to and allow you to take a device off line with a simple switch. That would be my favorite choice.

    Good luck.
     
  8. mboehler

    mboehler Member

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    I am using the original converter that came with the camper. It's an Electrical Center 6400A 6409. In addition to the 120V AC connections, it has 3 wires for the 12V system. One says Positive from Storage Battery, one says Positive Output to RV System , and the third says Negative to RV System and Storage Battery.

    It looks like this one except it does not have the lights on it.
    [​IMG]

    So I guess I'll mount the battery (I haven't even bought it yet) outside the pup on the tongue. Then I can connect the Positive line from it and from the TV inside the junction box I have that is also mounted on the tongue. Inside the fusebox of the TV is a 30A fuse that connects this line. If the fuse blows, then the Positive from the TV to the trailer is lost. I imagine I need to put a 30A fuse or circuit breaker between the PUP battery battery and the Positive connection in the tongue junction box as well.

    Then just one Positive line will come into the PUP and connect to the converter box. So far so good. Where the Positive line comes out of the converter, I guess I could just splice together the different branches (3 so far). I wanted to make it look professional instead of just taping or using wire nuts, though. I think the fuse box in my post above looks pretty good. So I might go with that.

    Thanks!
     
  9. Mudfoot

    Mudfoot New Member

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    No special tools necessary on the Powerpoles if you can solder. They can be crimped, but due to the design of the plug housings I always solder mine to ensure the actual contacts fit in with no fuss. Solder is better in my opinion anyways.
     
  10. BuxCamper

    BuxCamper Member

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    You can use a GB crimper (found at Lowes and Home Depot) on the PowerPole terminals. You can get a fancier crimper from West Mountain Radio or High Sierra Communications. I prefer that since it doesn't mash the connector. Alternatively you can solder.

    One thing about PowerPoles is that they only take about 3 pounds of force to separate which is not a lot.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
     

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