Heater help!

Discussion in 'Heating / Cooling Systems' started by Roberty, May 11, 2016.

  1. Roberty

    Roberty New Member

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    I have a 2000 flagstaff 176ed I recently picked up. It was in rough shape but with a few repairs it should get me through the summer or maybe a few summers. The issue in having is with the propane heater. It's a dd-17dsi and it worked fine when I tested it at my parents place. But after a 5 hour drive home it refuses to stay lit.

    The fan cycles on, the sail switch closes, the valve opens, the igniter sparks and I get a nice blue flame, but after 5-6 seconds it closes the valve and goes out. It does this 3 tribes then goes to lockout. I tested it on 120v power and I have a brand new converter and battery installed properly.

    I'm thinking there's a flame sensor somewhere but I don't know where it is. I checked the wiring diagrams and troubleshooting steps from the manual but it all looks good and still having this issue. Anyone able to help at all?
     
  2. Keith Hawkins

    Keith Hawkins Active Member

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    Did you happen to check and make sure you have a full propane tank? Not being smart, sometimes it is the simplest answer that we tend to miss.
     
  3. bldmtnrider

    bldmtnrider Member

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    Sounds like a propane issue to me. Did you introduce air into the lines that needs to be bled out? Do you have full propane tanks? And my favorite question, did you turn your propane on?
     
  4. Roberty

    Roberty New Member

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    I'm pretty sure there's adequate propane in the tank. I had the propane stove running and it seemed fine. I'll top up the tank to be sure. Otherwise it has to be a bad flame sensor but I'm not sure how that works on this furnace.

    From what I've found online the igniter also acts as a flame sensor, so it's either that or the control module I'm guessing.
     
  5. generok

    generok Well-Known Member

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    In the 5-6 seconds the flame runs, does the igniter keep sparking? If so, I'd agree the unit isn't getting any feedback that the flame has lit, and ultimately it shuts down the valve. I'm not sure what it uses to get that signal on that model, but I agree, it sounds like the most likely scenario and it fits the symptoms. There has to be a thermal switch somewhere in the system and in the flame path. I don't know if it is normally open (when cold) or normally closed to help diagnose it.
     
  6. Roberty

    Roberty New Member

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    Yes the igniter keeps sparking until the valve closes. From what I read on a maintenance manual, the igniter acts as a flame sensor somehow. I plan to refill the propane tank to eliminate that as an issue, then replace the igniter, then if it still fails, i'll replace the control module.
     
  7. nuthut

    nuthut Member

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    I had the same problem on my 2010 starcraft 1020 it wound up being the propane regulator and hose. It was partially clogged stove worked ok but heater did same thing and the water heater flame was smaller than usual when on. They use more propane than the stove. You get initial light up because the pressure is high in the line at first but with the hose clogged or collapsed it can keep up with the demand. I switch the regulator and hose at the bottle and all was good. Mine crapped out on a cold night wok up freezing.
     
  8. Roberty

    Roberty New Member

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    Interesting! I'll have to look at that also! Perhaps before the control module as it seemed to work fine previously and it does seem to do what its supposed to do at the moment.
     
  9. BaysideJim

    BaysideJim Member

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    I am not the most knowledgable person when it comes to propane..... but I did glean this from a fellow camper last year when I was having issues with mine. Evidently the regulator can be adjusted to provide proper flow. He had a tester and fiddled with mine...told me it was not quite right adjusted it,.... and its been fine ever since. Wish I watched closer to see what he did.....
     
  10. webhannet

    webhannet Member

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    I'm not familiar with your model, but the has to be a thermocouple which confirms the flame has lit. From what you're saying, it sounds like it's part of the igniter unit. Look for a rod-shaped solid metal tube - the very last thing in the flame unit. This creates electricity through the heat of the flame - that is how it communicates with the valve. Sometimes, you can lightly buff (steel wool) away collected carbon on the thermocouple. The thermocouple has an operating range of electrical output which you can check with a multimeter. I don't remember the actual expected range for operation - you've need to Google it. Also, I have had times where the thermocouple just needed to be moved a tiny bit closer to the flame.

    I very much doubt the following is your issue, but there is one thing further down the line in which the flame flows - that is a thermostatic limit switch to keep the unit fom making too much heat. Your situation sounds exactly like the thermocouple issue.

    Good Luck.
     
  11. Roberty

    Roberty New Member

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    Ordered a new dinosaur uib and a new ignitor. If that doesn't fix the issue then I'll just use a generator and an electric heater.
     
  12. Roberty

    Roberty New Member

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    My dinosaur uib s showed up today! Installed it right away as the pup was up from this past weekend and it worked perfectly! This heater puts out pretty great heat for this size camper! Now I've got two extra igniters ordered and don't even need them. Lol. Oh well spares guess!
     
  13. jimerica

    jimerica New Member

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    I realize this is a very old thread, but I had exactly the same issue with my Suburban dd-17dsi in my 2004 Rockwood 1940.
    I got lucky, and found a no cost solution. I removed igniter assembly, and bent both ignition wires about a quarter inch closer to the burner (the wire with ceramic insulator is the thermocouple that keeps valve open). Reassembled, works great!
     

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