I'm starting this thread in response to Jennifer Furr's "First Timer" thread question about hooking up at home. The first thing you need to identify is your camper's shore power hookup. There are three basic types: 15/20 amp - this will be a standard household plug like you see on vacuums, etc. You can plug into any standard household outlet. These are most common on older and small RVs with no air conditioner. 30 amp - this is a 3-prong plug that looks similar to an electric dryer plug. WARNING: DO NOT PLUG INTO A DRYER OUTLET! A dryer outlet is a full 240volt outlet. Your 30 amp RV is a 120volt system. They are not compatible. 50 amp - this is a 4 prong plug. The system will have 2 legs - each 25 amps at 120 volts. Most commonly used on larger RVs. One leg will usually power the air conditioner and the other leg will power everything else. On rigs with two air conditioners, the legs will usually each power an area of the RV (one leg powers the front half of the rig, the second the back half). Each leg will have its own breaker, so you can verify what is powere by which leg by shutting off a single breaker. Now you know what your RV system is and it's time to hook up to shore power. A 15/20amp system can be plugged into any 3 hole standard household outlet. However, just like when plugging in any other device, you can overload the circuit if too many devices are plugged into the same outlet or on the same circuit breaker. Just remember that everything plugged into the outlets on the RV, and every appliance in the RV that uses electricity, that is turned on at the same time will pull power from that single outlet and circuit breaker that you plugged the trailer into. For a 30 amp or 50 amp RV system, if you plug directly into an outlet of the same amperage (30 amp RV into a 30 amp outlet) and turn on the RV air conditioner and use your RV microwave, and/or other electrical appliances in the RV, at the same time, you may reach or exceed that 30 or 50 amps. In that case, your RV circuit breakers will trip. Easy to fix by resetting the breaker and reducing the number of appliances turned on at once. HOWEVER, there is another catch. If you use a dogbone or puck adapter or an extension cord to take the 30 amp or 50 amp RV system and plug it into a standard 15/20 amp household outlet, you have limited the power pull to the 15/20 amp circuit breaker at the house. So, you cannot run the amount of items as you could if you were connected to a 30 amp outlet. So, you have to choose: 1. You can install a dedicated outlet of the same amperage as your RV to your house electrical system. If you have a 50 amp RV, install a 50 amp outlet on its own dedicated 50 amp circuit breaker. If you have a 30 amp RVRV, install a 30 amp outlet on its own dedicated 30 amp circuit breaker. WARNING: MAKE SURE THE INSTALLER UNDERSTANDS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A 240VOLT 30AMP OUTLET AND A 120VOLT 30 AMP OUTLET AND INSTALLS THE CORRECT ONE - OR YOU'LL BURN OUT YOUR RV SYSTEM. This solution is the best because you will be able use your RV to the full capability is has. 1a. If you have a 50 amp RV, you can install a 30 amp outlet with a dedicated 30 amp circuit breaker. This will allow you to use less power at once than with the 50 amp outlet, but is usually enough to run one air conditioner at a time. 2. You can limit your power consumption in the RV when at home to the minimal 15/20 amp outlet. If you do this, you want to use an outlet and breaker that have no other items connected to it. If you plug into the same outlet or circuit breaker as your daughter's hair dryer (for example) and she starts drying your hair while you are vacuuming the RV using one of the RV outlets, you may blow your circuit breaker and create a disaster of epic proportions in your daughter's world. In order to hook up to a standard 15/20 amp household outlet with your 30 or 50 amp RV, you will need an adapter. There are several options: Dogbone - these are a short length of cord (6 inches on average) with a male plug on one end and a female plug on the other. The cord is usually rated for the highest powered plug on the dogbone. So, a 30 amp to 15/20 amp dogbone will have a cord rated for the 30 amps. A 50 amp to 30 amp dogbone will have a cord rated for 50 amps. This is important. If the cord is not rated appropriately, it will overheat and possibly melt and/or start a fire. If you want to go from 50 amps to 15/20 amps, you will need two dogbones (one 50 to 30 amp and one 30 to 15/20 amp) and run them together to make the drop. Puck Adapter - these are a simple plastic/rubberized oval or round piece with a male plug on one side and a female plug on the other. These are cheaper than the dogbones for a reason. By eliminating the cord between the two plugs, the electricity doesn't have any time to dissipate. Which results in the puck overheating, possibly melting and/or starting a fire. These are not recommended by experts. Extension Cord - if you need to go further than your RV power cord can reach, you will want to use an extension cord. Most people will automatically choose to attach a dogbone adapter to the RV plug and then run a heavy duty outdoor extension cord to the household outlet. This can result in overheating the extension cord and may melt it and/or start a fire. Instead, the best way to use an extension cord is to run one rated for your RV's amperage and then use a dogbone adapter when you reach the household outlet. It is more expensive to buy a 30 amp or 50 amp extension cord but it will be the safest. If you have a 30 amp RV, you can buy a 30 amp extenstion cord that has a 15/20 amp female end and eliminate the need for the dogbone. This is just a basic understanding. If anyone has a correction, let me know and I will update this post accordingly. Please feel free to add on more details as desired.