Hot water heater cold in/hot out gaskets & outdoor shower hose gasket

Discussion in 'Plumbing Systems (Blue, Grey, & Black)' started by cannotbackup, May 6, 2017.

  1. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Just de-winterizing the 2010 Coleman Utah that is new to us and came winterized.
    There was a cold in/hot out bypass in back of gas hot water heater (in the front storage bin). In working to reconnect hot and cold located a single gasket...not in the greatest condition.
    Is a gasket required for both cold in and hot out? Available at the local hardware store?

    Also tried the shower - connection at base of hose at faucet leaking. Unscrewed and no gasket in there. Is there supposed to be a gasket in there? Available at local hardware store?

    Pics of the 'situations' are attached. hot_water_gasket.jpg shower_hose_gasket.jpg
     
  2. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Update:
    Hot Water heater gasket(s) for cold in & hot out - Still looking - Home Depot and Canadian Tire don't carry this style.
    Next on list - plumbing supply store and RV supply store

    Shower hose - got 3/4 inch black O-ring from Home Depot for connection at base of hose. There is no gasket at shower handle connection so added a 3/4 inch black O-ring. Will test when get Hot water heater reconnected - just need to find gaskets.
     
  3. theseus

    theseus Centerville, OH

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    I do not have a gasket in my water heater connection. I use teflon tape. You might want to consider a permanent bypass for it so you aren't taking it apart as often.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2017
  4. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Thanks theseus.

    Found the Suburban Water Heater Service & Training Manual at:
    http://tnt.rvia.org/unipop.cfm?v=3&oid=1476
    On Page 10 is:
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    MAKING WATER CONNECTIONS

    A. Water connections are made at the rear of the water heater. Refer to Figure 4. Connect the hot and cold water lines to the 1/2” female pipe fitting provided on rear of tank. These fittings are marked “HOT” and “COLD”. NOTE: Inside each fitting is a plastic fill tube. Its purpose is to enhance water circulation. DO NOT REMOVE PLASTIC FILL TUBE.

    IMPORTANT: Use a pipe thread compound suitable for potable water or pipe thread tape on all connections to assure they will not leak.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    So this jives with your teflon tape & no gasket. +1 on the bypass. Will put that on the to do mods list.
     
  5. Customer

    Customer Well-Known Member

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    The type of connectors you have at the water heater use a cone gasket. The shower uses a flat gasket.
     
  6. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Thanks forum members.

    The Cone Gasket has been located (see attached pic) from the RV dealer/parts store. Supplier is Flair-It http://flairit.com/

    The shower gasket was o-ring flat gasket for shower available at most hardware stores.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    -cone gaskets from flair-it installed and no leak at hot water tank - check!
    -2 flat gasket (3/4" o-ring black) installed at shower (hose/faucet & hose showered) - no leak BUT...in hose screw on (male) end at shower - there is a hole underneath (looked machined in and barely visible) where water leaks out of when using shower.
    Can't make this stuff up -Picture to come later of the hole that leaks.
     
  8. theseus

    theseus Centerville, OH

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    Oh put a bit of joint compound or silicone on it ;)
     
  9. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Here picture of the hole where water leaks out now. Small black hole - at bottom of male threaded barrel. I have no idea why the hole and theseus silicone or joint compound likely the ticket.
    shower_hole.jpg
     
  10. Fless

    Fless Active Member

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    IIRC, that diverter connector has an integrated anti-siphon valve, to protect from outside water getting back into your water system. In order to maintain the integrity of your water system, you should look into buying a whole new diverter valve. They can be had for about $20 on up.

    I had to replace the one on my Cheyenne a few years ago and think I may have bought the one that included the shower hose and head. You may want to measure the distance between the valves, but typically they're 4" on center. Mine was easy enough to get at, since the main water connections were underneath the dinette seat.
     
    crackerJack likes this.
  11. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Thanks - that helps a lot with the parts terminology and zeroing in on the replacement part.
    youtube:
    describing a fix on a RV outdoor shower failed 'vacuum breaker' which looks to be alternative disruption of the 'anti-siphon valve'.
    that youtube vid talked about the the 2 openings in the top of the shower box and how to run hose though for anti kink...but going off topic.
     
  12. Fless

    Fless Active Member

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    Yes, that's another name for it, so you're on the right track. In the video she removes the whole outside shower housing, but if you can get at the back side of the H/C valve inside your Pup you don't have to do that.

    It might be less expensive to replace just the vacuum breaker, but I found it easier/quicker to replace the whole H/C valve as a unit. Took me less than 30 minutes. You can get the H/C valve unit with a 90 deg shower connection or a straight-up one.

    Let us know how your fix works out!
     
  13. cannotbackup

    cannotbackup Member

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    Roger that about accessing H/C valve inside Pup. Don't need to remove the whole outside shower housing.
    Will tackle this repair down the road and let the forum know how it goes.

    thanks!
     

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