How to fix broken bunk end wedge

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Repairs & Maintenance' started by kjmpdm, Aug 10, 2014.

  1. kjmpdm

    kjmpdm New Member

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    Coleman Westlake 2009. We've gotten the parts and have replaced the door side end. Can't figure out how to fix the far sink side bunk side rail and get the end wedge on. Any help would be great!
     
  2. foxpj

    foxpj US Army retired

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    Take the short end off pull the rail off from the inside install new wedge reinstall the rail carefully line it back up with bed end rollers and reinstall the outside short end.
     
  3. mv520

    mv520 Active Member

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    Yes, its a pain. The 2 or 3 times I did this on my 06 Cheyenne, I did it with the bed rails about halfway out. I hot melt glued the nut to a scrap (maybe about 1.5" square) of thin plywood,, hardboard, or corrugated cardboard (I don't recall exactly). Then I was able to use my fingertips of my left hand to hold the plywood/whatever with the nut glued to it in place, slide the wedge in with my right hand, and then use a Philips screwdriver in my right hand to get the screw started into the bolt. I then pulled the board scrap off the glued on nut, and used an open end or box end wrench to hold the nut for final tightening.

    In retrospect, even quicker might be to just hot melt glue the nut into the opening of an open end wrench, use the wrench to hold and position the nut for tightening, and then pull on the wrench to break the glue bond and leave the nut in place.

    If your using the cast aluminum wedges (as opposed to OEM plastic), keep a close eye out for wear on the rails (especially the door/curb side) where the wedges sit while traveling. They gouged the heck out of my bottom rail inboard edges. At least with the cast aluminum ones I bought, the hand grinding done on the final casting parting line was pretty erratic. Certainly the wedges were not symmetric top to bottom . I ground down the bottom edge so it didn't rest on my lower rail, and it solved the problem (although I'm still left with gouged rails)
     
  4. ghacker

    ghacker Active Member

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    This does appear to be an issue for a number of members. I just installed a set of 2 on my front bunkend. Bought a set of 4 and all were the same.

    The casting's pretty rough so I sanded the wedges down. 1st w. 100 grit, then 150. Smooth as a baby's butt now. Also rounded all the edges a bit.

    It's important to sand down the sides of the wedges pretty aggressively. All 4 of mine had rounded load surfaces so that the actual area making contact was considerably less than the total, minimizing the area and concentrating the force. This could be part of the problem some have complained about where the bed rails are getting a lot of wear. Spreading the load out should help along with the UHMW tape I installed on the bed rails. Smooth as glass and pretty durable it should eliminate the issue.

    As an aside, I also installed an aluminum bunk end stop. This needed some modification as well. Maybe I got some bad ones but none would fit properly. Had to sand down the inside faces of the stop so the screw hole would align properly.
     
  5. EV2

    EV2 Member

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  6. foxpj

    foxpj US Army retired

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    There is not enough room to get a wrench behind the wedge, removing the rail is not that hard just go slow reinstalling make sure you line up the bed rollers DO NOT FORCE IT, it should slide in. I spent more time trying to figure out how to do without taking it out than I did actually take it out and putting it back together.
     
  7. kjmpdm

    kjmpdm New Member

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    Thank you all! Fixed!
     

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