How to test if water pump is good on my 2002 Cheyenne?

Discussion in 'Plumbing Systems (Blue, Grey, & Black)' started by Camper054, Oct 9, 2019.

  1. Arruba

    Arruba Active Member

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    The Shurflo is a good pump. They are an industrial grade pump and are serviceable. Yours isn’t necessarily a “bad” one. If yours has a removable base plate on the pump, pull it off and check to see if the impeller is turning and still secured to the shaft. A lot of times grit or plumbing shavings, (Most usually associated with a new delivery) can migrate to the pump and hang up the impeller.

    If you do find your pump works but you don’t get water to the faucet, double check the screen. Sometimes those don’t seal together correctly and let the system draw air. If not together correctly they’ll usually leak a little water when the tank is full and the pump is off.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2020
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  2. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Don't fire up the hot water heater until you fill it with water. Otherwise you can damage the internal ceramic lining.
     
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  3. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    A Suburban water heater has a steel tank that is porcelain lined, an Atwood tank is aluminum and has no lining.
     
  4. mpking

    mpking Well-Known Member

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    Um..... The pump in his picture IS a Shurflo..... :)

    But they do go bad. 18 years is a long time, especially if the previous owner mistreated it (Didn't winterize)

    @Camper054 Did you look at the diagram I linked in Post #7? Does that help?
     
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  5. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Ah yes, porcelain, not ceramic, thanks Grey Fox
     
  6. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks I coudn't see the brand. The photo was too small.
    It must be an older Shurflo, that doesn't look like the new Shurflo pumps.
     
  7. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    It's not, a 2002 Cheyenne would have originally had a ShurFlo Classic 2088-453-144 pump. It was replaced a few years ago with the ShurFlo Revolution but there's no reason to replace the Classic if it still works - and I'd suspect it does, it just needs to be primed. To the OP - disconnect the pump's intake hose and replace it with a short piece of hose, say 18", and stick that in a jug of water. Turn the pump on and if there's nothing wrong with it the pump will prime. Once it has reconnect the fresh water tank line to the pump input. While you're at it make sure the strain filter screwed on to the pump's intake is clean.
     
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  8. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Well that would be interesting if priming it got it to work!

    I’ve never needed to prime my pump and haven’t heard of this need before. Maybe my pump always had enough water or antifreeze in it to create a suction going in the tank
     
  9. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    I've almost always had to prime my pump each spring while de-winterizing the trailer, regardless of whether it was in a popup, hybrid, or travel trailer. It really depends on the length of hose between the FW tank & the pump and how that hose bends around obstacles. Once primed I've rarely had the pump lose prime during the season but that's mostly because I never empty the FW tank and instead leave the system fully operational throughout the season.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2020
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  10. Camper054

    Camper054 Active Member

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    Hi all, I am on it. This weekend, I know what I am doing to figure out the issue. Only one thing that I am not sure yet is how and if my hot water tank is getting filled or not. @mpking , your #7 post pic is really good understand the connections. I am still trying to figure out and follow the hoses through the floor, underneath, and then over at the front storage area where the water heater sits. I know there are two outlet vents underneath that I remember to open when winterized last winter. I forgot to close them when filling out the fresh water tank, but I did not see water coming out from the vent when my fresh water tank was filled. So, that tells me that for some reason, water did not make it into my water heater, I think! So here is my plan of action:
    * prime or test the pump with a small intake tube from a jar. If it works, I will connect the fresh water tube and see if it works.
    * I still need to figure out how to confirm that the water heater is getting water, which I am not sure, yet...

    Many thanks to all of you so much for all your thoughts and suggestions. Now I am under pressure to make it work :).

    Thanks you all!
     
  11. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    If you pull up on your hot water heaters pressure release valve that will tell you if it has water in it or not
     
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  12. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    I personally would not recommend that. The pressure valve often builds up with crud and if you open the valve it will often not close completely, in which case you'd have to replace it. Leave it alone. :)
     
  13. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Not a jar of water, a JUG - at least several gals of water. I usually fill a 7 gal Aquatainer to use for this priming process.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2020
  14. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    To the OP ...

    Remember also that as you're priming the pump you're also purging all of the water lines aft of the pump of air and replacing it with water. With the pump running and trying to prime open one of your faucets a bit so air has a means of escape. Do this with the cold water faucet & the hot and don't forget to also do the same with the outside shower faucets. Remember also, with the water heater tank bypass valve(s) set correctly you're also filling it's 6 gal tank and likewise displacing most of the air in the tank with water. If you find the pump has difficulty with this and still won't fully prime turn the pump off and instead use city water under pressure (say from your house) - just don't forget to use a water pressure regulator on the source tap so you don't blow out the water line fittings in your camper.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Good comment. Another way to test is turn on the hot water faucet and see if water comes out or if it’s dry.
     
  16. Camper054

    Camper054 Active Member

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    Hi all: Update-
    So, it looks like the water pump is busted. I did the 'prime' test by unhooking inlet and outlet pipes from the pump and put inlet end in a 4 gallon container and run the pump for few minutes and nothing happens. I take out the pipe and put in on my palm and I do no feel any suction at all.

    I remove the pump and open it up as much as I can - meaning whatever screws I can find, I open them up and look inside if I can see anything obvious. Not being a pro on this, I cannot find anything (posting pics).

    So, I ordered a pump (thanks to you for the link) and plan to install tomorrow after I get it.

    IMG_20200731_173400.jpg IMG_20200731_175516.jpg

    One other thing: I mentioned that I still did not understand how the hot water heater plays into all these. I 'think' I figured it out. I have drawn a picture of the plumbing system as best I could understand by following the pipes and connections to different parts - fresh water tank, water pump, city water link, sink, water heater, outside shower, under floor valves etc. I will post the drawing in a different thread and ask input/comments if I understood it correctly (for my model at least).

    Hopefully I can make it work tomorrow. Have a good weekend!
     
  17. Camper054

    Camper054 Active Member

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    Update:
    So, I put in the new water pump - not without some minor issues, which was okay. One major issue was that, my hot water heater hot and cold pipes were not tight enough after I put them back (which I removed during the winter). As a result, water started leaking from the water heater, which was in the front storage compartment. I had to move the front bed inside (get the door up, get the sink down...) and then I started tightening the screws. And, I guess, I was too harsh - broke off one - arghhhhh. This was a major problem as these are custom made and impossible replace. So, I had to improvise - got a 90 degree elbow and a shark bite connector. Cut off the original attachment and put them back. This time, I put the white teflon tape and no more leaks. See the pics. I was also able to get the hot water heater running and got hot water. So, overall it was a success!!! Camped last weekend at Morgan-Monroe State Forrest and there are no electric connections. Our fresh water tank was a huge help and success with the water pump. My wife didn't know exactly what I was working on and she was extremely delighted to see that we have water running in the camper as she or the kids wouldn't have to go the public bathrooms. Oh, yes, I also took my Thetford porta potti - so, we were all set! Had a good time at the camp.

    Before I broke the lower cap:
    IMG_20200801_104606.jpg

    You can see it is broken :(
    IMG_20200801_104606.jpg

    Here is the fix:
    IMG_20200806_202856.jpg

    New pump:
    IMG_20200807_215034.jpg

    Water heater working! :)
    IMG_20200806_212729.jpg

    And, at the campground:
    IMG_20200809_085657.jpg

    THANKS to EVERYONE for your help, support and encouragements.
    Best to you all!
     

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