I see the pump, but don't see the hose for winterizing. Hmm.

Discussion in 'Camper Storage / Winterizing & De-Winterizing' started by MIlover, Oct 11, 2014.

  1. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    Hello all,

    This is my first time winterizing a pup and Mother Nature has turned it into a rush job with these recent cold temps!

    I watched PcKeen's recent video about winterizing his Fleetwood Utah, and it was helpful. I have a clear idea of what needs to be done, and in what order. But...our 2008 Utah doesn't have the convenient hose attached to the pump for winterizing purposes. Here is a photo:

    [​IMG]

    I believe the white hose on the left is what should be disconnected, so that another hose can connect to the pump and siphon antifreeze into the system, correct?

    I've also read that the commonly used winterizing kits aren't well-suited for the Utah pumps, due to the tight space. Do others find that to be the case? If so, what is an easy fix? And while we're at it, is that white, cup-like thing on the pump the strainer? I'd like to remove and clean it since I have the area opened up.

    Last but not least, the P.O. of our pup mentioned that he bypassed the fresh water tank for winterizing, but I think he did so from outside the pup. I don't see any mods to the outside water lines though, so am not sure how he would have done that.

    As always, your help is appreciated!
     
  2. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    Here are some discussions for you to read.
    http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=88156.15
    I have done mine by blowing out all the water from the city water inlet port. No antifreeze this year.
    Do you have an air-compressor?

    "bypass fresh water tank" means you don't put antifreeze in the tank. Crawl under the pup and undo the valve to drain all the water. Any residual water will do no harm. Do you have a hot water tank? Drain that, too. No antifreeze.

    If you do want to fill lines with antifreeze, you probably need to replace the black 90o elbow with a 3-way valve.
    I think you have enough space to add this 3-way bypass and then an elbow to your hose
    [​IMG]


    If you don't have enough room for the bypass valve, do what Raycfe suggested. It' s a hassle but only twice a year.
     
  3. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Remove the white hose connector from the strainer, attach a new hose there to the strainer.
     
  4. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    Thanks for the link. I hadn't come across that thread. We don't have an air compressor at this time. I plan to use antifreeze and just want to understand the components of my pump for winterizing. Is the strainer the white cup-like object?
     
  5. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Yes.
     
  6. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    Thanks for the additional information Swordfish. I am confident in the steps required to winterize and bypass the tank (draining lines, tank, water heater, etc.) Just needed some confirmation on what exactly I should be doing at the pump. I've got it now - if I can find the correct tubing and/or buy a kit that fits in the space.

    Also, I know there are TONS of threads on winterizing and no one likes to repeat information that can easily be found (myself included). However, when I searched the forum, I couldn't find photos of a pump showing exactly what goes where when siphoning antifreeze. The recent video, though informative, is dark. I'm a visual learner, so figured I'd post my picture for reference. Hopefully it helps someone else.

    Thanks again for your feedback!
     
  7. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    You can find the 1/2" barbed plastic fitting at your local RV parts store, and pick up 2-3 feet of tubing to go onto that fitting as well. Total cost on these two items should be under $10. Plenty of room for this, and it really is a breeze once you've done it once.

    The winterization kit shown above is not a bad idea either, but you'd need to move your pump over a few inches (unscrew pump, move over, re-screw it into the floor) to accommodate the kit.

    I'd encourage you to find a small air compressor from someone, and blow the lines out before antifreeze.Diluted RV antifreeze (it will mix with the water that is in the lines) will slush/freeze. I even had the cheap wal-mart antifreeze slush/freeze on me last year, even after blowing the lines out.

    Also, if you insist on not blowing the lines out, be sure to remove the small mesh screen on the outside of the city water hookup, and push on the one-way valve. Do this with the pump off, but after it has pressurized the system. This way, it should push out the water, and hopefully some antifreeze in its place. Otherwise, you'll freeze the city water in line.

    Once you do this, you'll be confident next year... It really is a simple process, and you'll save yourself a lot by learning it yourself versus using the dealer.

    Good Luck!
     
  8. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    If you can undo the black elbow, take a picture and find out its size (I.D.), we can rig something virtually. You might need one of those for the connection to the brass bypass valve, (depending of the size of your black elbow)
    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=barbed%20fitting%20with%20pipe%20thread
    So, here you have the white hose from the floor connected to the barbed hose adaptor (one of the above), and connected to the bypass valve with threaded end, and connected to the pump intake. For your existing setup, you may change the cap position of the bypass valve so it is like a side-way T (bottom of the T connected to the pump intake and the cap is on top). This way you don't have to move your pump. To winterize, undo the cap, connect the tygon tubing, leave one end in the antifreeze jug to syphon antifreeze into your line with your pump.

    Clear as mud?
     
  9. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    Here I synthesized the setup for your pump from various components available from Amazon.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. tfischer

    tfischer Well-Known Member

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  11. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    Thanks everyone. These responses are most helpful. Love the rigged up photos Swordfish!

    I think there is something I'm missing though. Please forgive me if it's obvious. Is there a reason I can't simply remove the white intake hose clamp, pull off that hose, and plug on a siphon hose at the black elbow fitting? I realize it's not a permanent bypass installation (which I would like to add next season, but it does look like it will take a little bit of time and study for a novice).

    I also read this thread about winterizing via pump from CamL48 http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=78294.msg727421#msg727421. This confused me too, because it's not a permanent bypass installation, and he still used the barbed fitting.

    Clearly I'm overlooking something. :smile_question1: Please enlighten me.
     
  12. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    This is what I recommended above, except using your existing barbed fitting. Home Depot has the clear tubing if your local RV place does not have a few feet to spare. Only thing is, you'll probably have to buy 8-10 feet as a small roll, even though you don't need that much.

    EDIT: looking at your picture again, it may or may not be a removable hoseclamp holding the hose onto that barbed fitting. If it isn't removable, you'll have to spend the extra $2 at your local RV dealer and get the additional barbed fitting.

    Personally, I have the extra barbed fitting and 3' of hose, with this blow-out valve (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413206419&sr=8-1&keywords=blow+out+plug) in the bag as well. that's all I need other than my small air compressor.
     
  13. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    That's what confused me Kevin - I wasn't sure why buying a new barbed fitting was recommended? Is there a reason for that?

    Nevermind. I just saw your edited post. I NOW understand - it's because the barbed fitting might not come out of the hose. I have seen the light!
     
  14. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    I edited my post above, but it may still be confusing.

    For the $2 that the additional barbed fitting would cost, and the ability to have the hose and fitting assembled and ready next year, it'd be much easier than futzing with getting the barbed fitting off of the factory feed line, etc.. Unthread one, thread on the other, and then re-attach a few minutes later when you're done running AF through.

    That, and I'm not sure the clamp you have now is removable, it doesn't look like a traditional hose-clamp.
     
  15. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    The edit wasn't confusing. We were just posting simultaneously. See my edited post. It all makes sense now. Sometimes, it's the minor details. [A]
     
  16. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    Excellent! I would recommend looking into the bypass kit as well, but if you're not comfortable with that this year, you can always do it next year.
     
  17. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    Kevin was right about the hose clamp and barbed fitting. Looks like a Shark Bite clamp. Might be a bitch to undo. Watch HomeDepot video to see how to undo the clamp (link below). So, for what you want to do this year, you unscrew the black elbow from the pump end and add this part to the pump intake if you are not installing the kit. Find a piece of tygon tubing that fits the barbed fitting.
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-x-1-2-in-Brass-Barb-x-Male-Threaded-Adapter-UC120LFA/202270581
     
  18. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    The pump intake is male.

    You should be able to find a plastic barbed fitting like the original for a few bucks at your local RV place... but if not, you will need a female version of what swordfish showed.
     
  19. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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  20. MIlover

    MIlover Member

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    Well, I did it. SPUT and all. DH went to Home Depot this morning (He is off work for Columbus Day [:D]) and picked up some tubing and one of these. [​IMG]

    I unscrewed the black elbow and threaded on the new brass fitting then added the tubing. I only got the new fitting on about half way before it was too tight to turn. As a result, this happened when it started to pump antifreeze:

    I did put a shallow container under the fitting "just in case" so while it overflowed and made a bit of a mess, it could have been a lot worse. I'm embarrassed to admit that I used about 1 1/2 jugs of antifreeze. Ridiculous, I know! [:O] But, there seemed to be quite a bit of water coming out of the faucets at first, and I wanted to make sure it was all gone, so ran the faucets for a bit and drained into a bucket.

    Aside from blowing out the lines first, is there a way to avoid that? Should I have first run the pump despite having an empty water tank, and opened the faucets - would that have purged the remaining water?

    Anyway, I got antifreeze everywhere it needed to be and then some. However, I couldn't push in the city water inlet valve. It wouldn't budge, so I'm not sure what to do about that bit of line.

    Then a SPUT.
    For some reason, I had it in my head (even wrote it down), that after winterizing, I should then flip the water heater bypass valve back to its previous position, so that it would be ready for the spring. *Palm to face* Yes, that makes no sense, since during de-winterizing flushing in the spring you still want to AVOID the water heater. Sometimes, I read up on pup stuff while up in the middle of the night with our baby (also known as zombie-mom time). That was also when I watched the winterizing video, and apparently my sleep-deprived brain made up a new (and wrong) step. Because I had written it down as a step (that I could have swore I saw in the video, but didn't), I didn't think much about it and assumed the antifreeze would stay in the lines...until after I heard the gush of antifreeze go into the water heater and realize I had done something quite stupid. As they say, hindsight is 20/20.

    Is it possible to rinse the water heater with the hose attachment wand, and not compromise the rest of the water lines that already have antifreeze in them?

    My take home from all of this? Next year, we are going to set up some sort of permanent bypass winterizing system.
     

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