I have a 2015 Forest River Rockwood Premier 2516G (Utah floorplan) popup. It is fairly heavy, as popup trailers go. I made things worse by getting it with dual propane, and air conditioning. And I later installed a bike rack on the roof, and a second battery. So tongue weight without water and bikes is already about 475 pounds. Overall weight with water and bikes is just a hair under the GVWR of 3200 pounds. I've towed with all of the following vehicles: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder, manual transmission: Once was enough. That's not a valid option. 2009 Chevy Traverse: This one did ok. Max tongue weight for a traverse is 600 pounds. Its long wheel base seemed to do well with the trailer. It was a little underpowered, though. 2015 Ford Explorer Sport: This one did great, though it has a slightly shorter wheel base, and wanted to squat in back, lift in front just enough that I strongly considered a WD hitch, but never got around to it. 2011 Chevy Silverado: This was fantastic but it was a friend's truck, not mine. 1995 Ford Bronco XLT 5.8L V8: This has enough torque to tow well. It's my fun project car. But it does have a shorter wheel base, and lifts about 2/3rds of an inch in front when I set a 500 pound load on the tongue. I tow the trailer with this vehicle exclusively now because it's my "camping car." Finally it was time to deal with this tongue weight head on. I installed a Curt weight distribution hitch with 600-800 pound spring bars, and a Curt sway control bar. The reason I went with the 600-800 pound rating rather than 400-600: Start with a 475 pound tongue weight without water and bikes. Consider also the fact that I would be carrying a cooler and other gear in the back of my tow vehicle. Add gear and provisions for the trip, and there's no way that I'm below 600 pounds of extra load aft of the rear axle. On one recent trip I carried 20 gallons of water in the main tank, five gallons in the toilet, and twelve gallons in jugs in the forward compartment. A WDH with a 600+ pound rating is the right one for the job. Now here's the other problem I had: There are propane tanks that sit right at the spot where I should install WD springbar brackets. The solution was a set of bolt-on side-mount springbar chain hangers. With these I have to use the trailer's jack to lift the vehicle enough to hook up the springbar chains. But once I do, they work just as well as the snap-up hangers. The next problem: The springbar hangers needed to be at about 27 inches from the coupler. The frame ball for the sway control system needs to be centered at 24 inches from the coupler. Even with their mounting plates right up against each other, I was only able to get the sway control ball installed at 23 1/4 from the coupler. That's as far aft as I could go without overlapping the springbar hangers' plates. So... after getting all the holes drilled, all the hardware mounted, all the equipment adjusted and torqued and tested for clearances, I was able to take the trailer for a drive. It tows so nicely; I should have made this switch several years sooner. The vehicle squats about a half inch. The front lifts about 1/8th of an inch. It's almost like I'm not towing. And now when I pass a semi on the highway, or catch a gust in the middle of a curve in the highway, I don't sweat it; the trailer doesn't move at all. Backing up isn't a problem either. I have full range of motion with the sway control, though I do loosen it before backing. Now when I load the trailer for a trip I can focus on getting the gear I need (within overall tow limits) and on stowing it properly (rather than worrying about overloading the tongue). And while I tow on the highway, I feel so much more in control. Sway was never a big problem. I think of only one time where I really felt it. But the added stability of the WD hitch and sway control really make me feel better towing. So.... if your trailer and tow vehicle allow for a WD hitch and your tongue weight is a little on the high side, don't play games with distributing weight to the back of the trailer, where it will increase sway. Install a WD hitch and a sway bar, and be done with it. I should have done it a lot sooner. Additional towing hardware: I also have a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 controller. I've also used a Tekonsha Primus IQ (worked great), and a Reese time-delay controller (which sucked).