Interior Modifications Do's & Don'ts

My pop-up (Rockwood 1640 LTD) had a step built in for the front bunk but not for the back bunt, you know, where the kids sleep. So I added one. I made the top removable to create a little storage space for flip-flops. The front step is so flimsy compared to the one I built I plan or replacing the front one. The basic procedure was to measure the space for the step and allow for a lot of clearance as the walls/cabinets are not straight. I added two supports on either side. Pro-Tip: they are mounted from the inside of the cabinets so that I could screw into real wood (my supports). I added a kick plate/front support to enclose the box. For the step itself, I used a stair tread from Home Depot (about $12), stained and then several coats of polyurethane. Below is a link to my album of camper modifications. The step is shown in there.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XC22NuQCCqYrfJ4XA

 

. The funny thing about this, my 1990 Jayco did have a boxed step. Don't know why they wanted to change the design.

 

Talk about cutting corners... literally!!

 

Really great camp kitchen. I'm going to meditate on making my own!

 

@Mat Kyne great mods! Thanks for sharing the photos!

 

Yes , they are !

 

Do you have a link for the thermometer you used on the fridge?

 

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product...e=UTF8&psc=1#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div

I had to make two modifications to the thermometer.

1. I had to open in up and solder together two pads to make it read in Fahrenheit. (look on the reviews on the Amazon page, it shows what to do.)
2. I shortened the wire on the thermocouple (sensor). I un-soldered the wires from the board and shortened the wire to leave me about 3 inches to work with and then soldered it back to the board. The polarity of the wires doesn't matter.

To modify the door:

1. I first removed the door from the refrigerator to make the work easier.
2. Next I removed 2 screws on the bottom of the door which let me remove the plastic trim.
3. I slid out the paneling insert. This revealed a section of aluminum skinned insulation foam.
4. I measured and cut out the square hole in the paneling with a chisel and sanded the edges smooth.
5. Then I slid it back into place in the door and marked the area of foam I needed to remove.
6. I re-removed the paneling and used an utility knife to cut and remove the foam.
7. Then I drilled a 3/16 hole through the door to line up with where the wire for the sensor was.
8. I checked the fit before I put the door back together.
9. From the outside of the reassembled door I installed the sensor through the hole and snapped the thermometer in place.
10. Inside the door I put a one dab of hot glue in the wire hole and another dab to hold the sensor in place.
11. Then I reinstalled the door and checked it against the wireless thermometer I was using in there. It was about 1/2 a degree off. Good enough for me.

The entire thermometer can be removed to change the batteries without removing the door or sensor.

 

I found a wireless thermometer, and I put the 'sending unit' in my refrigerator. Mounted the 'main' unit on the adjacent cabinet. Batteries have been good for an entire season in that.

not quite as fancy as this one, mine does not have humidity sensor, but you get the general idea. https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00611A3-Wireless-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001B35APA