Jayco Lift System Repair

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by JaycoEagle, May 3, 2015.

  1. JaycoEagle

    JaycoEagle New Member

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    Ok last fall I bought a 2000 Jayco Eagle 12UDST for my son and I to go camping in. When I bought it the guy I got it from said the passenger side front corner "didn't work well" and he had a post he used to prop up that corner after the roof was up. Then on my son and I's first and only trip out last year when we were cranking the roof up we heard a loud pop and since then the drivers side rear corner did not go up. So I basically had two working corners lifting up the roof. Well I was leery of working on the lift system myself and long story short the local Jayco dealer didn't want to work on it, so I was on my own. I did some looking around and figured that the cables were broke so I ordered a set of them. This past weekend I decided that I would start trying to find access to all of the corners and get the lay of the land. So I started removing some screws and got access to the winch and to the block where the four cables were supposed to be connected to the eye bolts, but this with what I found....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    As you can see the eye bolts are stretched open and only two cables are connected and there is one that is complete broke off which I found in the corner by the winch. So I dug around in the corner opposite of the winch and found the other two cable with their loops intact. So after a trip to my local Tractor Supply for new eye bolts I got all of the cables reattached and now all four corners are working like a champ. [​IMG]

    The one cable I had to put a link in because I think that cable broke and someone didn't replace it they just re-crimped it which made it short. So it cost me $7 to fix the lift system. I still have the new cables coming which I'm just going to keep in case one does break. All in all it was a simple fix with the hardest part was getting access to drivers side rear corner that had cabinets and the furnace hiding the cables and such.
     
  2. efehser

    efehser New Member

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    Nice. Did you by chance lube the lift springs (inside the post at the corners)? That will take some of the stress off the eyebolts, winch, your arm etc.
     
  3. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Good stuff!

    While lowering the roof, just lower it enough so you can close the roof latches. Once the latches are closed, give the crank a 1/4 turn or so, just a couple of clicks of the winch in order to keep some tension in the lift system during storage or transport.
     
  4. JaycoEagle

    JaycoEagle New Member

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    Huh I never really thought about doing that for transport or storage. I was worried that a cable could come out of a pulley and cause a problem.

    By the way I did lube the lift springs.
     
  5. tcanthonyii

    tcanthonyii Member

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    I had the exact same problem on mine, twice. Both times they were owner self induced. When I went to look at my camper the lady who had it failed to unlatch the passenger front corner. A friend and I opened it up ( I had back surgery several weeks prior so I just stood and watched). The eye bolt was opened up and my track bent. Bought a new eye bolt and beat the track back. Saved me 500 bucks off the purchase price! Then last summer I failed to unlatch the same dang corner. Bent track and pulled eyebolt. Bought a new track this time and put in a new eyebolt. Oops!! Oh well. I keep an extra eyebolt on the camper now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. russjbeck

    russjbeck New Member

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    The good ol' L&W lift system. A lot of dealers won't mess with them anymore because it often costs more in labor than what owners with L&W systems want to pay. Now that you know how to fix it you won't need them anyway. I had to use links in mine as well. I got tired of dealing with mine all the time, so I put in for the C&R universal lift.
     
  7. AlcHemIE

    AlcHemIE New Member

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    If you can still access the spot, a small weld bead on the open eye will ensure that never ever happens again. I've done it on eyebolts for other scenarios where they have/may pull open.
     
  8. tcanthonyii

    tcanthonyii Member

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    I would refrain from doing that. Eye bolts are a buck. New tracks are a fair bit more expensive. They use eye bolts so that they do open up and keep from damaging other stuff.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. JaycoEagle

    JaycoEagle New Member

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    Ya know I agree, the previous owner must have tried to put the roof up with it still latched down causing the eyebolts to stretch. I paid $1 from Tractor Supply for the replacement eye bolts, but in my haste I ordered a new set of cables from Canvas Replacements prior to knowing I didn't have a broke cable/s. Those new cables came in and I was surprised to see their eyebolt are a different shape, but more surprising they look to be welded at the joint which would not allow them to stretch open.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. 4campers+g-kids

    4campers+g-kids Member

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    Nice work. Finding the problem most of the time requires actually seeing it. Glad you got it fixed so easy.

    New cables are probably upgraded design seeing there were previous failures with the eyebolts.
     
  11. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Alternatively, stainless steel eye bolts are less likely to pull open unless there's something seriously wrong. While I see the point in welding the eyes shut, I'd much rather have the eye bolts pull open than have a cable tear or see the lift system damaged elsewhere. Eye bolts are cheap and easy to find but that's not true with regard to many of the other lift system components. [2C]

    Having a spare set of cables on hand is good insurance and hopefully you don't need them anytime soon! [:D]
     
  12. jtworldwide2

    jtworldwide2 Member

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    Why would stainless steel eye bolts be less likely to pull open?

    SST bolts would be easier to pull open which would give more protection to the cables and other parts of the lift system.
     
  13. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Try bending a stainless steel eye bolt. They're much stronger than mild steel. In terms of tensile strength, more than twice as strong.

    Plenty of data supports my statement, though not exactly the perfect resource, here's just one.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultimate_tensile_strength

    Regardless of which steel is selected in this application, the eye bolts shouldn't be welded shut. All I'm saying is, stainless is stronger and more resistant to bending. If you'd rather use mild steel, I'm understand the reasons why and I'm perfectly fine with that.
     
  14. jtworldwide2

    jtworldwide2 Member

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    Whats ironic is the Wikipedia data compared to my material books I have sitting on my desk are not even close, the numbers they have in there for 302 are WAY off. Yeah, not a good dataset, use matweb for comparisons.

    Ultimate strength has nothing to do with the point at which the eye bolt will start to bend. You should be more concerned with yield strength. The point at which a material stops behaving elastically.
    304 SST (Common bolt material) has a yield strength of 31.2 kips - Standard zinc plated steel has a yield strength of 60.2 kips. Both came from Matweb.
    Nearly twice as much.
    Stainless steel fastners are ALWAYS weaker than their carbon steel counterparts, due to the lack of carbon and the lack of being and to heat treat them to gain strength.
    Not sure were you are getting your data from , but there is ZERO data that supports your statement that stainless is stronger than mild steel hardware, that is in fact 100% incorrect.

    What do you think grade 8 hardware is made from, heres a hint, its not stainless steel.
     
  15. redleg

    redleg New Member

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    I had my eye bolts welded as well. When I was new to the PUP world I ordered the cable set from popupparts.com. The eyebolts came welded. Anyhow, I had cables break several times over the years and got my eyebolts welded. And discovered the lift cables are easily obtained at hardware stores.
    After much heartache I discovered that there was binding issues...replaced all pulleys on the tracks, even discovered the front non door side floor track was bent slightly causing drive slug to bind at the bend. Again went to Menards and got the steel tube and went to a fabrication shop and asked them to take pulley assembly off of floor track and weld it to the new steel tube.
    Everything works great.
    I just have to reiterate to seek out binding issues. Don't overlook those little nylon pulleys and make sure the floor tracks are straight and true. Grease on the spring rod and inside the floor tracks help too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  16. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    THIS!^
     
  17. s_fredrick@att.net

    s_fredrick@att.net New Member

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    Hi There,
    Can you send me the pictures you posted? I am having the same issue and cannot see what you uploaded.
    Thanks so much,
    Sandie
     
  18. fyrftr422

    fyrftr422 New Member

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    Great thread and those pictures looked remarkably similar to what I just dealt with in my '00 Jayco Eagle 12SO. Same initial problem so I read a few posts about possible issues, including this one. I had already strengthened and re-supported all my benches so gaining access to the tee and cables was easy, and lo-and-behold, stretched bolts. Such a relief that the fix was a simple one as we're headed away camping next weekend and really did not want to have to tear apart my trailer for the next week.

    I did notice one of the old bolts had a spot weld on it, obviously not the first time this has happened. After reading here, I will be finding a way to cut it out and replace with e a bolt that will stretch apart if necessary. And my pulleys, are metal. WHEW!!!

    Thanks for this!
     
  19. Finally Off The Ground

    Finally Off The Ground New Member

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    I know this is an old post, but hope you can respond. The eyebolts on my 93 viking keep pulling apart and lifting and lowering is an issue. What could be the problem if it isn't the eyebolts? The cables all look good. Thanks
     

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