Leaky Shower Drain... Or Grey Water Overflowed?

Discussion in 'Plumbing Systems (Blue, Grey, & Black)' started by dbbyleo, Jul 14, 2013.

  1. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Me again... another plumbing topic and the second of two things I've found didn't quite check out when I gave my new-to-me 2006 Niagara the ole once over after taking delivery last night.

    See photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/runningwithicecream/9284475159/#

    The red circle in the upper left points to the shower flashing around the shower drain. I saw a small amounts of water dripping from that spot. I noticed this when I decided to look under the pup after having been running water throughout... just to see if I can see any leak issues.

    And sure there it is.

    However...

    I also realized what that clear tube was that been hanging under the pup (lower right red circle). When I looked at the unit, the previous owner wasn't sure what that clear hose was that was dangling underneat. And today... I think I just found out...

    It must be the grey tank overflow, right?

    Because in all the running of water... and trying to fill up the water heater ... I must have filled up the grey tank.

    So when I looked under... and noticed this leak from the shower drain... I also noticed the grey tank was overflowing out the grey tube.

    Then I realize that the leak at the shower drain may be the result of the grey backing up to the shower. And I assume the shower drain is much like a "catch"... the shower stall floor fittings falls into the drain below... and there's no real seal around it. And so if water backed up... if would overflow and leak out.

    I think this because I can't get the leak to occur when I just run the shower.

    Can you confirm this is expected when I overflow the grey tank?

    And as far as the overflow tube... do I just zip tie that somewhere on the frame?
     
  2. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Here is a link to the parts catalog, page 25 has a poor print of the water system. http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37743407/COLEMAN%20PARTS%20BOOK/2006/2006%20coleman%20highlander.pdf

    You say you filled the grey water tank......... Grey water is from the sink drain, etc. I do not think it has a fill cap. The fresh water tank has a fill on the outside. You fill it with your white water hose or a funnel and pails of fresh water. The hose could be the fresh water vent hose. If you look at the water fill opening, there maybe a small hole with a screen in it. The vent hose goes to that. #23 in the print.
     
  3. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    When I said I filled up the Grey tank, I meant I filled it up by continuosly running the sink. I was trying to following the instruction in how to make sure I filled up the hot water heater. I overlooked the the bypass valve. So meantime, I kept running the hot water side at the sink... which filled up the grey tank.
     
  4. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    The shower strainer should be water tight and even if the entire drainage system was full clear up to the flood level of shower the drain should not leak. open up the flashing, dry everything real good, run some water down the drain, and look for leaks. You may have to fill system up with the plug in.
     
  5. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Thanks rick... I'll do that.
     
  6. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Ok... just as probably some of you thought... it's was just the "basket and strainer". Seems like the seal around the stainer and the shower stall floor has failed.

    Makes sense now. When the stall floor filled up because of backup from the full grey tank... water leaked thru there. But I didn't see the stall fill up with water because I drained the grey before I went to see the stall.

    Question is... how does the strainer come off. It's looks to be made of plastic... and if I try to use a large long nose plier as leverage on the "cross" bars in the strainer... it bars would just break. Actually it already broke cuz that's exactly what I tried to do [?:~{]
     
  7. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Ok... so looks like the previous owner silicone glued/caulk the drain to the trap adapter. So at this point... I think I'm hosed. There's no re-doing the seal on the drain.

    I'm no plumber but have done enough DIY at home and plumbing job... you're not suppose to glue/caulk the threads of the drain and the trap adapter together.

    Any suggestion on how I take apart the trap adapter and drain would be great. I guess I'm looking at just replacing the both... if/when I can pull them apart.
     
  8. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    Well.. They make a tool that fits into strainer and when turned counter clock wise it would grab and help unscrew. some Ace hardwares will loan you tool.You could try to use 2 screw driver in a X shape tring to grip the inside of strain. A bandaid would be to fill the grove up with silicone. Worse case you may have to do some cuttin. If you resort to the cutting check back for a little advice because some care must be given as not to cut a grove in pan
     
  9. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Needle nosed pliers might work instead of the crossed screw drivers. A new trap adapter should cost under $10 at your dealer.


    1996 Viking 2060ST / 1997 F150
     
  10. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Since the drain is made of plastic... I resort to cutting... just enough to break off the lip. There was no unscrewing this drain off of the trap adapter. I used a hot blade to score the plastic trim of drains and it broke off with some prying. Anyway... it's out. Now just need new trap adapter and drain.

    Pan is smooth no damage. Lots of caulking and putty and whatever else the PO put down there. It was a mess. Bug and Tar remover works great to clean it up all the gunk.

    It's all ready to receive the new fittings.

    Thanks guys.
     
  11. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    You are saying trap adapter. do You mean glue to the pipe is a male adapter with a threaded nut with tail piece going into the shower strainer
     
  12. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Here's a picture of exactly what I have and illustrates what I mean: http://www.flickr.com/photos/runningwithicecream/9293401384/#

    I assume the basket/strainer is NOT supposed to be glued to the trap adapter. It would defeat being able to remove the basket/strainer when re-caulking/re-puttying is needed. And that's exactly my situation and which is why I just had to demo this assembly.

    Which leads me to my next question...

    After having removed the old trap adapter/basket-strainer... how DOES one get a good tight connection between the trap adapter and the B/S? You can't use a tool on the trap adapter to tighten it with the B/S... there's no room in that 6"x6" access hole under the pup for the shower drain.

    I'm assuming it will have to be just hand tighten? I'm no plumber, but have done enough to assume... the key to a good water-tight fitting here is to make sure B/S and trap adapter is tighten adequately to properly compress the shower stall pan. Between the little rubbery gasket on the trap and the plumbers putty under the B/S... that should prevent leaks.

    BUT... if there's any play between the trap and B/S... and over time... that fitting will wiggle and eventually break seal. That won't take long with time on the bumpy road.

    Am I looking at this right? If so... any suggestion on how to best tighten the trap and B/S together? And is plumber's putty the best thing - anything better you guy know of to use?

    Thanks.
     
  13. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    well first off lets change the terminology. What you really have is a shower strainer with a tail piece. You could use putty under the lip of strainer( I have used silicone for this before but not on the threads) then mash the strainer into the hole in the pan. You could need someone to hold it while you go under and thread the tail piece on to strainer with rubber in between big nut and bottom of the pan. glue fitting onto end of tail piece connect to drain line. does any of this seem to make sense. Easier done then said.
     
  14. daveo1289

    daveo1289 Active Member

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    If your new fittings are plastic/PVC, you are only going to want to give then a good hand tightening. If you use any tooling to tighten them, you could over tighten them causing cracking or stripped threads. Plumbers putty or a good silicone caulk will hold everything tight and in place.
    You sound like you have a good handle on your repairs. Good luck!
     
  15. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    Thanks Rick/Dave...
    Yes you are right... my terminology was a bit off. I think I know now why/where UI saw the "trap adapter" lingo... I think the schematic was refering to the "reducer" I see attached to the tail pipe... and the strainer is what is fitted to the "adapter" (reducer).

    Anyway... I figured all this is only hand tighten... again there's no room in that access hole under the pup to get a took. Seems to be if this strainer/tail pipe was the kind that had a separate "nut" under the strainer (like in most residential application)... there's no way to tighten that nut... again it's way deep in there and no room.

    So it's a good thing the tail pipe and female thread on the tail pipe is all one piece... I'm basically going to have to hold the tail pipe... by the tail to tighten it.

    Problem now is finding the fittings.

    I just got back from 4 different RV stores... and no one seems to care this tail pipe.
     
  16. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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  17. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    Check to see if the pipe is the same size as our tubular pipe. This is the pipes that in in home DP(Traps and extension and tail pieces usually compression) then that would fit in to a trap adapter. Trap adapters are glue on side and compression on the other
     
  18. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    I went to depot... and came up empty... even with the help of their master plumber. I had some options... but required I have good access to the area right under the stall pan... and I just don't. While there's a 6"x6" cut out in the floor of the pup (from underneath)... the shower tall pan is raise... and at that level... there's another "floor"... that cutout on that floor is a 3 hole... just enough for the tail pipe to go through.

    All tail pipe setup at depot has the compression (like I think you;re saying), but that requires you to be able to tighten the nut under the pan. In my situation... you are barely able to grip the nut... let alone tighten it.

    I think that's why this tail pipe they are using works so well... it direct fits on to the strainer... and you simply grip the tail pipe itself to tighten.

    I think i'm just gonna have to bite the bullet and order from this ebay listing.
     
  19. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    could you use a furnco coupling. It's a rubber sleeve with 2 hose clamps
     
  20. dbbyleo

    dbbyleo Member

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    No... you can't... because ...
    Step 1. You place the strainer on pan (with putty etc)
    Step 2. Connect tail pipe to stainer.

    Because of the lack of space underneath... the only way to connect tail pipe is to have a tail pipe that has a female thread that threads directly onto the strainer. That way you will be able to turn the tail pipe but gripping it at the tail. You can't get to the head where it's threading onto the strainer.

    Not sure what possibilities there are with using the "hub" setup you're suggesting (I think that's what plumbers call that piece - a hub... or a no-hub).

    Anyway... $10 at ebay for this tail pipe... I'm good with that.
     

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