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Discussion in 'Leveling Your Camper' started by Espeycaver, Nov 8, 2012.
Exactly, minimal at the most
All this debating between leveling jacks and stabilizing jacks makes me shake my head trying to figure out the difference between the two.
I use these on my pup, with a wood pad underneath, and go around with a magnetic level and adjust each stand until all corners and sides are level. (kind of a pain in the ass, but i make due with what I got.)
I can't confirm it, but apparently these jack-stand style jacks are rated for 6,000 lbs. my pup weighs a mere 800 lbs, so I should be good for letting them take the brunt of the trailer's weight.
The point the others are making is that the stabilizers should NOT bear the brunt of the trailer's weight. The tires and axle should, just like when it is on the road. That's why you put something under the low-side tire (wood planks, Lynx Blocks, BAL Leveler, etc.) to get it level side-to-side and then you balance front-to-back with the tongue jack.
I think that part of the problem is the term "jacks." You don't jack up the trailer when you level it side-to-side and you don't jack it up when you stabilize it. The only jacks in the mix should be the tongue jack and the jack you use if you have a flat tire.
Having said that I must retreat a bit and say that the "jack stand" devices you pictured in your post can be used for stabilizing if they go under the frame in the four corners and are only snugged up enough to stabilize, but not lift the trailer or bear its weight.
I have those same type of jack stands that i use only for stabilizing. since the long handle to lift and lower the bolt/plate broke off mine, i can't end up jacking up my pup with them and can only use mine for stabilizing.
unfortunately, many of us thinks the stabs are actually jacks.
Our 2012 Coachmen Clipper 106 Sport has the same scissor jacks that are on our 8,000 lbs. TT. The manual states that if the pup is more than 2" off level side to side, use a leveling ramp under the tire. At 2" or less, use the stabilizing jacks. Again, the jacks on this 1,500 lbs. pup are capable of picking it up to change the tire.
My TrailManor has scissor stabilizers on all four corners and the manual actually says to use them for leveling but I will not do it. I do it just like I did with my Yuma PUP: BAL Leveler on the low side tire and tongue jack.
Our 2012 Coachmen Clipper 126 has the same jacks. I haven't seen the 2-inch limit in the manual, but I got in writing from Viking to use the jacks to level the trailer.
That said, once we got the trailer, I can understand why there is a two-inch limit. The frame is literally half as strong as the frame on our 2007 Starcraft, so I ate some humble pie and bought a BAL leveler.
Just got a 2013 Rockwood PuP and the factory rep from Forest River says to un hook PUP from TV. Using the tounge jack level front to back, then use your BAL Leveler on the lowest side of the camper and crank up until all bubbles are center. Now crank down stabilizers one at a time until they touch the ground solid without lifting the PUP WALL AH you are leverl, check all bubbles for centerd.
NO BAL Leveler, keep PUP attached to TV and level from side to side with blocks on lowest sidem THEN Level front to back
^^^^^^^^^ WHAT HE SAID ^^^^^^^^^
I like this! Any others?
Wow, I can't believe this got two endorsements. This sounds like just about the worst idea I've ever heard.
Depending on the grade, if you unhook your PUP from your TV without first inserting the BAL (or chock), your PUP is going to run away from you. I've actually seen someone pull in and start by unhooking the PUP. Fortunately, it was a small Taos that the guy was able to grab quickly and toss back on the hitch ... lesson learned.
Rather, use the BAL Leveler on the lowest side of the PUP to level it side to side. Then unhook your PUP from your TV. Then level front to back using the tongue jack.
We have to unhook our pup first to move it around the trees! LOL
I have a "dog dish" for my tounge jack and of course chock one wheel (high side) before unhooking. The "dog dish" won't allow the trailer to run away.
I really thought that was obvious. When you do the same thing over and over, you forget to tell the important middle steps. Sorry for the confusion.
you are doing it right to level it and use something on the wheels. But I have seen in some of the pancake flat areas in the Midwest, FL and great lake area a lot of the the local people do what she said they do where she camps.
But keep doing it the right way. You could get a bad habitat and see your trailer running down a hill or destroy your fridge.
I know when we camp in those areas most of the time side to side the trailer has an inch or less difference, which would be ok and front to back there is almost no grade for the trailer to run away.
Why would you need a Bal leveler on both tires? I would think one would be enough. If not raise the tire slightly and slide some wood or plastic blocks under the other tire and then lower the Bal to level.
It just would not work. You level front to back, then the right or left side side needs to raised by lets say 5 inch to be level. Once you level side to side 5 inches, the front to back is un-level.
I've been doing it wrong for 2 years!!! Why have I never read one of these posts!!! I'm sure it one that gets re asked very often!!! I need to pass on the info to my friends who taught me wrong!!!
Ive seen this happen to boat. This one guy brought his pontoon in before we opened for service and unhooked it in unlevel parking lot, pulled away and it then rolled down the hill and smashed into an 18 wheeler trailer and trashed his front step rail and trolling motor and broke the gate on the boat. We use the "stop-chock-drop" rule at work.
Not sure if I replied to this or not....so here goes (again?)!!
After I back in, I chock BOTH wheels, front and back. Check side to side level and if needed, unchock, pull forward, place wood behind the low tire side, back onto said wood, check level again, rechock, then I disconnect form the hitch, and wind her up or down to level front to back. SO far, I've been really lucky with mostly level sites, so side to side is usually easy. Then I do all the stuff needed while the top is still down (attach canopy, etc), crank the roof up, pull the beds and slide out into place, then go around and drop the stabs and snug them up.
After doing the rest of the outside stuff (cabana, rug, coolers, etc), I get inside and sort of wiggle my fluffy self left and right, then turn 90 degrees and do it again. I can feel where I'm snug and not, so I go out and snug the stabs that need it. After that, you'd think you were walking on a concrete slab!!
Different manufacturers say to do it DIFFERENTLY, so there is no ONE way!! The frames ARE sort of delicate, considering, so
the top up, stabs down method is what Starcraft says to do.
I could see potential damage if you braced the frame and then raised the top with 3 or 4 piece lifting arms because they wouldn't be able to have that little bit of 'wiggling' they need to go up smoothly.
BUT, again, different manufacturers suggest different methods. No wonder it's confusing, huh??