Lift System Lubrication

Discussion in 'Lift Systems' started by TimD, Jun 10, 2017.

  1. TimD

    TimD New Member

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    Hi everyone, I can only imagine that has been asked 8 million times, but I've had my '98 Rockwood Freedom for 3 seasons now and have not yet lubed the lift system. It may very well be that the guy I brought it from was very faithful at it, but I don't know.

    Either way, I figure it's time to grease that sucker. Would it be the Goshen system I've got? What are the recommendations for the best grease to use?
     
  2. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    According to the Goshen website (http://www.goshenstamping.com/lift-system) you have their system. You can download the diagram and parts list from a link on the bottom of the page. There are two choices. If your telescoping corner posts are square you have the 1473 Series. If they are rectangle you have the 2660 Series.

    On my Goshen system, I used the grease (NLGI Grade 2 Lithium Grease with a minimum dropping point of 440 degrees) that was left over from greasing the wheel bearings to put grease in the two zerks under the PUP. I also greased the pulley on the rear of the camper and then greased the power lift gears.

    Today, I added some 30W oil the spring tubes. This is done by removing the two self tapping screws on the frame of the camper holding the tubes in each corner, then adding the oil down each tube, then reattaching the tubes to the frame.
     

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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
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  3. TimD

    TimD New Member

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    Awesome Bikenfish, thanks very much!
     
  4. jacrabbitt

    jacrabbitt Active Member

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    Not saying a Lift Lube will cure all ills, but it can't hurt. i think half the trouble folks have with their lift system is due to lack of maintenance
     
  5. f5moab

    f5moab Retired from the Federal Government

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    If you get under the trailer, at each corner you will see a curved metal conduit that conduit needs to be pulled back and 30W motor oil needs to be squirted into the conduit around the large spring that pushes on the corner to raise the roof.
    Just remove the two screws and pull the conduit down...
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then squirt some oil into the conduit...
    [​IMG]

    After you are done, push the conduit up and secure with the two bolts.

    Now, under the trailer in the center is the track area where the cables go though, on the front and rear are two zerk grease fittings. Pump a lot of grease into each fitting. If this has never been done before, you will probably use an entire 14 oz tube of high pressure lithium grease or synthetic) for each fitting.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Rear pulley depends on the type. Older ones did require some lube, newer ones do not. I believe the main difference is the newer pulley has sealed bearings. (When I replaced the cable on my 2012 trailer, I asked if I should replace the rear adjustable pulley and the Goshen rep told me mine should have the newer model and I believe she said it has sealed bearings.)

    If you have a powerwinch, under the winch motor on the trailer frame is a pan held in place by 4 screws. Remove those screws, drop the pan, and then spray a lube; I always used a dry lube, onto the drum and bottom of the gear assembly you will see when looking into it. Then replace the cover.

    If a manual winch, chances are there is no cover to remove'; however, a spray of dry lube is still a good idea.

    You should also have the axle bearing lubed too. You probably have the EZ lube or an AL-KO Ultra Lube system (basically identical), and can just pump grease into the zerk fittings until the old grease starts to come out the outer edge of the axle. MAKE SURE TO LIFT THE WHEEL AND SPIN IT WHILE PUMPING GREASE, AND USE A HAND PUMP DO NOT USE AN AIR OR POWER GREASE GUN.
    (NOTE: Some will say to never do this and just manually repack the bearings every year. I did this for three years, then replaced the springs and brakes to a larger size and the seals had held and never leaked. But different strokes for different folks. So just noting this; how you do it is up to you.)


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2017
  6. TimD

    TimD New Member

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    Wow! Thank you so much f5. I was literally coming back here to check out how Bike had worded his post and saw this one. I was trying to figure out where the brackets were. Does it matter if I do this with the roof up?
     
  7. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    Roof down. It may take a bit of tugging to get the bracket down once the bolts are off. Then a bit of finagling to get it back on. You shouldn't have to pull it down too far (4-5 inches). I used an old syringe to get the oil into the tube. Once you get the first one done, the other three are easy.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2017
  8. TimD

    TimD New Member

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    Cool thanks! It was actually way easier than I expected but there are drain holes at the corner! I couldn't figure out why the oil was immediately dripping all over me! Any ideas what to do about the drain holes or is just a good coating with oil good enough?
     
  9. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    Mine didn't have drain holes. They are supposed to be there, but mine weren't there. I have read to use some plumbers putty or even chewing gum to plug them.
     
  10. f5moab

    f5moab Retired from the Federal Government

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    The dealer told me older models had the holds, newer did not. Mine does not have the holes. As for removing...yes as already pointed out, the roof should be down (no tension) but NOT latched. When installing I have found it is easier to allow the roof to move up just a small amount to make it easier.
     
  11. Whopper14

    Whopper14 Member

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    When greasing the cable tubes, how do you know when enough is enough? I bought my PUP new last year?
     
  12. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    When it comes out of the other side.
     
  13. MyName

    MyName Active Member

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    I'm leaving for a trip in 3 days. Pop up is currently open. Should i lube before or after my trip. I'm afraid of messing something up. Since the previous owner lied about many things I'm going to say my TT hasn't been maintain in a while.
     
  14. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    I would do it before you lower the roof so you can spray the lift post and work the lube in when you lower it. This will help when you have to open it at camp. Don't forget to put some cardboard between the posts & the Canvas to help keep it clean.
     
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  15. MyName

    MyName Active Member

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  16. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    The Silicone is the way to go.
     
  17. Bobby Keller

    Bobby Keller New Member

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    F5moab, I realize this is an old post, but can you please link me to the photos you posted about the conduit pictures? I wanted to see if I could match to what your saying and the photos in the post are bad links now. I see where to lube the linkage everywhere else but the end of the conduits. Thanks!
     
  18. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    Hello and welcome from Minnesota!

    Sorry, but F5Moab left the Portal in a rant and a cloud of dust. Hasn't been seen for almost two years. He also asked the administrators to delete anything they could about him. He was a bit disgruntled.
     
  19. Bobby Keller

    Bobby Keller New Member

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    OK, well thanks for the reply. I will figure it out. I just got a used pop up and was looking for some guidance in lubricating the cable system.

    Thanks and have a good day!
     
  20. Campergal40

    Campergal40 I smell like a campfire!

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    This post is in response to BikeNFish's above reply above with the pictures of the Zert's and pully. I need to lube my life system on my new camper and I have never done it before so I'm not sure what exactly I'm looking for in the pictures you posted. In two of the pictures you posted, I'm assuming you were referencing the "pointy nozzle looking thing" (LOL) above the bar as being the Zert? I inferred this from other posts in this thread as I saw that the nozzle on a grease gun should fit on it and then you just repeatedly squeeze the trigger, filling it with grease until you see grease coming out the other side? I hope you see this and can respond. I see the last post on this thread was in 2017. I'm a woman who likes to fix stuff and when I don't know how, I research and ask questions until I figure it out! Thanks a bunch!
     

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