Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Going to the DARK SIDE' started by Sjm9911, Sep 22, 2019.
No luck, other controller works the same. Im out of ideas.
Did you try the idea suggested of connecting the truck to the trailer via jumper cables?
For the ground? I can try that, but i cleaned and replaced like every ground wire on the TV and the TT. It works up to 25 mph, lol then goes to low power. Everything in park checks out ok.
I did just take off two tires, hit the manual gain to 66 , and i couldn't turn them at all. So its getting voltage in park. I also ,turned on everything when doing this. Running lights camera, etc.
Anyone know if i can hook up the break controller directly to the battery? Do i need inline fuse and or cut off device? Its just 12 volts?
It’s just 12V, but you should have a self-resetting circuit breaker between the battery and controller for the permanent wiring. For just testing a fuse will work fine. If I remember correctly, the Primus IQ manual should say what amp circuit breaker to use. You’ll also want to use a heavy enough wire to handle the load and minimize voltage drop, typically 10 gauge for both the power from the battery and the circuit out to the trailer.
Ok , good and bad news. I dont know why i didnt think of it before but i towed my pop up around. Break controller worked great. So now im guessing the issue is in the TT. I will have to rewire the breaks once i find suitable wire. My only problem is that the TT has many more lights then the pop up. Hope the issues isnt a load one. But I am thinking that the TV and break controller are good. Now i just have to rewire the TT. Lol , easy......
If it were me, I would still try these simple tests. With meter set to ohms, check for what specific continuity reading you get from the meter leads connected to the TV ground (frame) and to the TT frame when (bare metal on TT & TV):
1) TT connected to TV, but w/o the wiring harness plugged in. Reading is x.xx
2) TT connected to TV, but with the wiring harness plugged in. Reading is x.xx
3) TT connected to TV, with the wiring harness plugged in -AND- connecting the TT to the tow vehicle with jumper cables well grounded on both vehicles. Reading is x.xx
If reading (2) is 1.0 or less, you have confirmed your TV to TT frame ground is good. If (3) is well lower than (2's) reading, your ground connection is not as good as it could be. If (2's) reading is wat higher than 1.0, that is a bad ground problem. This test is to eliminate the chance of an intermittent ground connection on the TT side of your TV / TT connection. This would verify for sure that you have a good ground getting from the TV to the questionable TT!
I say this from the chasing my tail experience of 2.5 days of trouble shooting MY trailer light issues... to no avail. I wish I had done the simplest things FIRST. I do feel your pain. That is why I advocate eliminating this simple TV to questionable TT connection. It may not be the ground, but unless you have done the above of testing for ground
Where you at with diagnosing the problem
I'm going to rewire it eaither tomorrow or tuesday. Just did 30 hours straight at work and kids birthday party sunday.
No excuses lol!
Figured if im overly tired and cranky i tent to get agrivated and rip out more stuff then needed, thats how i got a new kitchenette in my house, lol. Im tring to keep it to just fix the problem and dont make more work.....
I got from your initial post that your new trailer has tandem axle/4 wheels? Also sounded like you have brakes on all 4 tires from your description of the crimp and wire nuts, correct? Is your controller (and the replacement) designed for 4 wheel brakes? Just a thought.
Regarding soldering vs wire nuts/crimps - both wire nuts and crimp connections will corrode over time and give poor connectivity. I've always soldered all my connections. The one place you don't want solder is in a screw-down connection - where the screw is compressing the wire directly. Building codes for house forbid the use of solder. The connection heats and cools with load/unloaded. The wire expands (but can't because of the screw) and the solder is deformed. Once cool, the connection is *loose*. That promotes arcing and potential for fire (not really that big of a deal with 12v, though). However, I solder all my connection of wire-to-wire (butt connections) and wire in a crimped spade or ring connector. I don't want corrosion, ever!
Pretty much spot on. And the controller is rated for 4 and more. What i was rwading is that the conections break over time from probably the coling and heating and the vibration. I think i found a work around, depends if i can find my butane soldering iron. It looks as if the conections , dactory made , on the TT used a wire nut, but with solder also. So im thinking of wire nuts, and then drip solder into the nut to seal the conections.
Just solder and use heat shrink tubing to waterproof it. The only thing that would break a soldered connection is stress (too tight/no slack) and bending (flexing a LOT).
The problem is breaking the main wire into 4 feeds. Still figuring it out. And to be honest, im probably overthinking it. As whatever i do will most likely be more then adequate. Sometimes over thinking results in ,just that over thinking. I should just wire it and be done!
Make sure the wires to each side for brakes are of equal length. I read if on side is longer, it will have more resistance, so lower voltage, so less braking force to that side.
Out of the 6 trailers I have owned and the many I have worked on. They all had wire nuts from the brakes to the trailer wiring. Never saw the wires crimped??
I would be looking at the voltage feeding the controler.
Ok so , i rewired the trailor. What a PITA! Good news is on a test run everything works as designed. I still found no breaks or ware in the cables i ripped out. So i can only surmise that the break or short was inside the TT itself. When i disconected the main feeder line from the toung to the breaks , i felt a junction box on the inside of the trailor, with no access. The bad- i didnt think about the advice i took from e trailor. I got 10 guage stranded copper wire. What a pain to run and keep neat. I should have sized the wires that were on the TT first. 10 guage was overkill. So now i have 30 zip ties holding the wire to the axel, as its heavy and will not go into the gromets that held the previous wire. Only good thi g about the 10 guage is there will be 0 voltage drop to the breaks. Because of this i only ran one feeded wire down the side of the TT and jumped it with one wire to the other side. The way it was wired was with 2 feeds, one for each axel. I just ran one for both. I figure the larger wire and less conections was the better way to go. I did not solder the wire nuts as i wanted to do. The diffrence in size of the wires made it a no go. The wires that came off the break magnets were puny compared to the giant 10 guage that was feeding it. It's not pretty. And i still have a few spots to tighten up. I used a channel on the frame for the feeder wire, it will in time rub through the wire, my next step it to use a hot glue gun to pad this channel so the wire has something to rest on that isnt sharp. After that i will cap and push the original feed wires inside the TT, just incase they go somewhere else. ( they souldent but who knows). Thanks for the help everyone. It was a longer journey then im used to , but its all done now!