Making an opened camper less bouncy?

Discussion in 'Stabilizing Your Camper' started by raindog308, May 9, 2015.

  1. owenpsmith

    owenpsmith New Member

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    I chock with 2x4s, front and back on each wheel. Once trailer is positioned, I pull forward and inch or two to get the tires to ride up on the front chocks a bit, then get the DW to kick the rear chocks in tight. I find this decreased wiggle quite a bit compared to just kicking the chocks in after positioning.

    Also, ensure you are using a stand for your tongue jack instead of the wheel.
     
  2. Miller

    Miller '96 ColemanCheyenne - '14 Tacoma 4X4 DBL SR5 6spd

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    I believe if your not married it's bouncy and after your married, don't worry...the bouncing will stop. [:D] [LOL]

    Couldn't resist... hopefully I am not the only one laughing...but WTH, I usually am!!
    [CP]
     
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  3. roybraddy

    roybraddy Well-Known Member

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    My OFF-ROAD CAmper is probably pretty good suspension wise... Everything is beefed up some...

    The problem I have is with my raised top and supports... It is very rigid from front to back (tongue to tail) but side to side will move 6-inch or more when the wind blows...

    I can stand on the inside at the door and reach up and push out above the door assy and I can move the the top in that direction with ease...

    I had a sudden wind storm come up one time and it made everything I had sitting on a couple of portable shelves I have onto the floor... HDTV and Microwwave too haha...

    My fix was to install i-inch eyelets through the corners of the roof like shown here and then I can run four 15-foot 1/2-inch ratchet web belts to ground screw-in 3-inch anchors. My top doesn't move anymore now haha...

    [​IMG]
    Roy's image

    As it turned out these eyelets go all the way through to the inside of the roof lip behind my valance curtains... I added two more 1-inch eyelets to the inside as well on the unused tent bed side. I can run two additional 1/2-inch web straps her crisscross down to the metal sides of the trailer across the front of the unused tent bed we have. This is our day time storage area anyway. It is surprising how tight I can the side to side movement just having this one end secured this way without the outside corners going to the ground anchors...

    The 1/2-web straps are the ratchet type so they can come off in seconds if needed... Being an old tent guy we all used to have our style of putting up tent ropes but these ratchet type web straps sure puts all of those to shame and they can get disconnected in a snap... In the tent days there was never a good way to save your ropes - you just cut them off to pack up haha...

    My four 18-inch long ground anchors goes into the ground real easy using a screwdriver in the eyelet... They leave no marks on the ground when you take them out... They look like these shown here...
    [​IMG]
    google image

    My web straps just clip right into the anchor eyelets then I ratchet up tight. Really makes my Patio Awning super strong as well... I run a couple of additional 1/2-inch ratchet straps from the awning to the same ground anchor on that side of the trailer...

    Even with this additional support of the POPUP TOP and Awning we still vacate our POPUP trailer and head for the camp ground designated shelter location when the winds get high in the 40MPH range...

    Roy Ken
     
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  4. jrclocks

    jrclocks Member

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    As you "ratchet up tight" you are adding a load to the roof cables. Its the same as adding extra weight on top of the roof.

    I'd recommend caution doing this as I can see how this could damage your lift system. I suggest finding the root cause of you 6' sway and fixing it.

    [2C],
    JR
     
  5. jjmac

    jjmac Member

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    One tip I read on this forum way back when that I've always used and solves this problem. It's a method for chocking the "other" wheel. One wheel you will level somehow, the other wheel you should chock and chock it well. Works no matter if you're using Anderson, BAL, Lynx, 2X4's, whatever.

    When you chock your wheels, chock the forward side of the wheel first. Then comes the trick. Forget trying to hammer it in, just pull your TV up a few inches so that the tire starts to climb the chock. Then chock the back side. Shift the TV into neutral and you will have a much tighter chock than can be achieved with a hammer. This will practically eliminate shifting in the pup.

    I hear the BAL screw chock that chock's both sides of the wheel can also accomplish a similar stability, but I have never used it personally as this method solved all of my own problems.
     
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  6. Orchid

    Orchid Sharp Shootin' Grandma

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    This was my first thought as well. I'm not expert, but this seems like a solution that could end up in creating much bigger problems.
     
  7. Summer Time Alabama

    Summer Time Alabama New Member

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    Do you use one or 2 of these? Do you put them/it on the sides or front and back?a
     
  8. Orchid

    Orchid Sharp Shootin' Grandma

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    Seems like most people use two. I was wondering about the placement as well. Not that I'll ever get any, I kind of like my camper bouncy. [:D]
     
  9. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    Most people would use two of these, one on each side. That said, if you look at the pic again you'll see that the trailer in use is a 5th wheel, so like most TT's and HTT's they have the length to use them on the side. On a pup you'd most likely have to use one across the front..
     
  10. mcbrew

    mcbrew Member

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    I use one, but my pup is just an 8 footer. I use it on the front edge. I have heard of people using two, but that's usually on much larger campers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  11. SmilinBeard

    SmilinBeard Member

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    We just got back from a trip and tried one of the tips here. Once we were leveled on our linx levelers I had placed a chock behind the wheel that was on the ground, had DW back up a touch [not enough to get the pup out of level side to side] and then placed the front chock.

    It worked marvelous. Usually i lower the stabilizers and need to retighten them a time or two over the next day or so. This time even though we set up in the rain, it was very stable all five days.
     
  12. roybraddy

    roybraddy Well-Known Member

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    JR - Thanks for your concern... I thought about this being a problem as well but in my case I use four of these safety posts in each corner of the POPUP roof. After I raise the roof I place these posts in place and then let the top back down on top of these posts. This removes all pressure off of the roof raise cable. This also gives a great feeling of security of the roof top falling down on top of you in the event the raise cable did break...

    [​IMG]
    Roy's image from manual

    Two of these were provided with the trailer and I made two more out of some metal stock i got from Lowes.

    The 15-foot ratchet straps really takes care of my 6-inch sway I was having from side to side...

    Roy Ken
     
  13. turborich

    turborich Active Member

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    My pup isn't very bouncy at all when it's opened. I think it comes down to stabilizing it properly. I place pieces of 2x6 lumber that I've cut into small pieces under the crank down stabilizers, I also use wheel chocks and it firms it up nicely. About the worse part is when the wind gets blowing as the roof will sway a bit, but it's nothing to bad.
     
  14. Tracy D.

    Tracy D. Member

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    IMG_0401.JPG We use both the conventional and the corgi chocks.
     
  15. Jenkamus

    Jenkamus Active Member

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    those are the cutest chocks I have ever seen!
     
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  16. Sneezer

    Sneezer Well-Known Member

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    I have four stock stabs on mine. I always place a pad under each one (sometimes multiple in order to get the height right if I am on an incline) along with a wheel dock for the tongue jack. Planning on getting a slip on sand pad this year as that wheel is a little wobbly. I use a BAL leveler on one wheel, and got a BAL chock for the other this year, and that seemed to help a lot as well. Previously I just chocked the wheel, but I can tell a difference with the BAL.
     
  17. Natureangel

    Natureangel Everythings better outdoors...

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    No bouncing when I have the back stabs down, bal in place and two stack jacks in front.
     

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