Modified your lift system?

Discussion in 'My Favorite Mods, Tips, Tricks (and Blunders!)' started by carriermnky, Jun 13, 2017.

  1. carriermnky

    carriermnky Member

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    Has anyone modified their lift system? Do you know of someone who has on here? Just interested in outside the box ideas too while I have her broken down for rebuild.

    Thanks for your input.
     
  2. Arruba

    Arruba Active Member Gold Supporting Member

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    I have not, but have seen a couple videos that illustrate a mod. Both basically demonstrated conversion to a power lift system using an ATV winch. Try a google or YouTube search. There has to be more than a couple around.

    Good luck....
     
  3. carriermnky

    carriermnky Member

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    Out there looking now, thanks for the post. I've seen the kits too. I'm wondering if there's any other way to lift with out the system?

    or

    Boost the cabling strength so it takes on that load everyone talks about causing the breaks.
     
  4. Arruba

    Arruba Active Member Gold Supporting Member

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    Good question
     
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  5. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    Don't use a winch. I did, and it ruined the thrust bearings. The torque of a winch is too high.
    I showed my gear reduction system many times here, but it is probably difficult to find or the pictures are no longer there. The idea is the same as riding a bike uphill. Reduce that gear ratio 5 to 1. With 120 lb of AC on the roof, this makes cranking a breeze. After 4 years, it is as good as the first time.
    [​IMG][/URL]
    [​IMG][/URL]
    [​IMG][/URL]
     
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  6. Rick mc

    Rick mc New Member

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    That's cool ! Might have to try that !
     
  7. xvz12

    xvz12 Well-Known Member

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    Ordered parts to start my mod today....lol
     
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  8. JeepnCooks

    JeepnCooks Member

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    Ok so do you have a list of parts necessary to pull this off. It seems like it would be better than switching to a winch system since it is not relying on the need for a battery.
     
  9. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    I will check parts in McMaster-Carr and give you a list. Parts cost about $60. Find any machine shop to make a mounting block with set screws.
    By the way, I had this winch system that ruined my gear box and cost me $400 to replace it. Don't do it.
    [​IMG][/URL]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
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  10. JeepnCooks

    JeepnCooks Member

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    I was looking at my Coleman Destiny last night trying to figure out how I could make this work. Not sure how much room there is to fit the large gear in. trying to figure out how the crank handle actually is attached to the whiffle tree on mine. Does not seem to come off of there.
     
  11. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    The larger wheel was bored in the center to fit over the crank tube, using the exiting pin which sticks out from inside. There is an additional set screw to make the wheel solidly attached. You can still use the crank normally, or use on the smaller wheel to crank. No part of the camper needs to be modified in any way. If you show me a pic of your crank tube, I can tell if this is doable.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  12. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    Hope all my trouble can benefit at least one popup camper who wants an easy cranking system. Many are just curious. PM me for questions.
    [​IMG]

    Use the exiting pin to lock the larger wheel in place.[​IMG]
    Get the parts from McMaster-Carr. Take the picture to any machine shop to make the block and spindle. There are more than one way to assemble everything together. I have 5:1 gear reduction. That means manually it takes 5 times longer to crank up with 5 times less effort. Not an issue if using a drill. I think 3:1 would be acceptable and still easy on the portable drill.

    Please note that you may think using a powerful hammer drill and a socket jenie can do away with all this. The torque from a hammer drill could still do the damage to your bearings as what the winch did.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2017
  13. JeepnCooks

    JeepnCooks Member

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    Awesome detail. I went out to look at how the crank attaches to the shaft. Still not sure if it will come off of there. I will have to really get on the ground and look at it. Thank you for the detailed list of components, I see this in my near future. I will take a pic here shortly and get your opinion on how to get it loose.
     
  14. rolisrntex

    rolisrntex New Member

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    It will come off. You have to drift the roll pin out of the extension tube. Afterwards, use a 5/8" socket with long extension into the tube. There is a 5/8" nut in there. Take it out and unscrew the extension tune off the drive shaft. Just did it this past weekend on my 1999 Coleman Nevada. Before putting it back together, put a dab of grease on the drive shaft thread the extension screws on to.
     
  15. NegrilJerry

    NegrilJerry Newbies in GA, we LOVE this site!

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    The gear reduction rig looks great.
    I went with the simpler solution: a decent two-speed drill (Rigid, came with 2 batteries) with t-slot adapter. Two speeds mandatory of course, you have to run at the slower speed to get the torque required, and even then want to use the variable speed trigger to keep it as slow as hand cranking. Also used to quickly deploy the stabilizers.
     
  16. xvz12

    xvz12 Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully, the rest of my parts will be waiting for me when I get home, I'd really like to do this mod over the long weekend. @Jerry, your results may be different, but my DeWalt 20V 1/2" lithium-ion drill really struggles with the direct drive, even on the low setting. I have to crank the top up in installments, otherwise the drill will start smoking. Also, since the top on mine cranks from the front, it's a really tight fit to get the drill on the crankshaft, this should solve both issues for me. (I hope).:D
     
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  17. swordfish

    swordfish Well-Known Member

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    With 120 lb AC on the roof, my Milwaukee Magnum drill would smoke without gear reduction.
     
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  18. rolisrntex

    rolisrntex New Member

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    My Milwaukee 18V will raise the roof with direct drive but I have to do it slowly or the drill will over heat half way up.
     
  19. NegrilJerry

    NegrilJerry Newbies in GA, we LOVE this site!

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    I'm surprised that others have not been successful using drills, especially since the brands mentioned (dewalt, Milwaukee) are much pricier than my Rigid. The slower speed does stress the drill more and it heats up some but never smokes (so far!), and I've used it a few dozen times. Our 12' box Fleetwood has the BIG 120 lb a.c. unit (wish it was smaller/quieter)....I'll check the drill motor next time to see just how hot she gets, and still might attempt the gear reduction process. I could always just go back to manual cranking....NOPE.

    After re-reading the thread I am really concerned about possible damage from direct drive with the drill. I'll go extra slow next time, I'd rather burn out the drill than ruin my lift system - that's my greatest concern with Poppy.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2017
  20. xvz12

    xvz12 Well-Known Member

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    I believe from what I've seen, most of the newer PUPs already have a small amount of gear reduction, using the chain drive between the lower & upper crank locations. Many older pups, such as my '84 Cape Cod do not have this, you are cranking directly on the wiffletree shaft, no gear reduction at all, hence they tend to crank harder. This is purely observation on my part, YMMV.
     

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