Need HELP With Winterising . . .

Discussion in 'General Camping Discussion Forum' started by Weewilly, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    Got the antifreeze in the cartridge toilet and worked it through . That was easy .
    For the rest , I know how to draw it up from a container of antifreeze from below but I cannot get that big plug out of the bottom of the hot water tank to drain it . Reefed as hard as I could with a socket wrench and regular handle .Didn't want to try the long breaker bar for fear of wrecking something . .
    It only has one bypass valve which I have shut off from the inside .
    What would you suggest? Maybe run antifreeze through the tank as well as the rest of the plumbing ?
     
  2. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    OK , I put penetrating oil on it for an hour and finally got it loose with a long breaker bar .
    This is what came out with it. Never saw anything like this before on a drain plug . It has lots of hard deposits on it which I sanded off and it has a considerable amount of pitting .It seem to be fairly soft metal .
    What is the purpose of that rod ?

    [​IMG]
     
  3. drosengrant

    drosengrant One Day at a Time

    Messages:
    1,198
    Likes Received:
    22
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2008
    Location:
    Mine Hill NJ
    It's an anode rod and it sacrifices itself to save the hot water tank. Its made of zinc if I am not mistaken. Still look like it has some life left.
     
  4. JPBar

    JPBar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,873
    Likes Received:
    585
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2016
    Location:
    Texas
    Still looks pretty good, around $10 bucks for a new one (plus some Teflon tape). I would go ahead and replace, but that's just me.
     
  5. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    OK , thanks guys .
    I went ahead and finished off the winterising while I was waiting for a reply . I did put it back in after cleaning and applying Teflon tape but will probably replace it end of next season .
     
  6. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
  7. Gjburkey

    Gjburkey Member

    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2016
    It's it typical for the plug to have the anode rod on it? My hot water tank just has a plug with no rod. I've never looked for the rod and don't know if mine even has one.

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
     
  8. roybraddy

    roybraddy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,394
    Likes Received:
    944
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2016
    Location:
    King George, Virginia
    Since the POPUP is so small water line wise we use the blow-out method here by connecting a small output 12V compressor to the city water port with an air adapter. We first drain off the water at low drainage point and then blow out all of the water in the lines which includes most of the water heater if we open the hot water spigot. I open the water heater relief value and there is plenty of expansion space in the hot water heater that it doesn't offer any damage from freezing what small amount of water is left in the it.

    Then I will pour some pink stuff down the couple of drain P-traps I have in the popup

    I use the POPUP during the winter months alot as well so using the blow-out is the best method for me to use. Can get right back in service by just adding water to fresh water tank... The blow-out method only takes a few minutes to do so if I up in the mtns somewhere I can do this real quick and water again the next morning and carry on...

    Usually where we camp it might get down to freezing during the night but always heats up during the day. Not much of big deal for us here in Virginia...

    Roy Ken
     
  9. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,167
    Likes Received:
    1,832
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2007
    Location:
    Ontario
    Depends on the water heater.. Suburban water heaters use a steel liner and use an anode rod, Atwood water heaters use a glass/ceramic liner and do not use or need an anode rod..
     
  10. Gjburkey

    Gjburkey Member

    Messages:
    35
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2016
    Thanks for the reply. I'm quite sure mine is an Atwood,so that explains it.

    Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
     
  11. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    I contacted the previous and original owner of mine last night and asked if he had ever replaced the rod. Then I found out why it was in so tight. He had never removed the plug to drain the tank and had only used the trailer a couple times every summer which is why it is in like new condition .
    He told me there is a red and a blue valve on the Coleman Santa Fe on the underside that will drain the entire system including the hot water tank but he didn't trust that so after draining itall by that method he also put in antifreeze same as I did because it gets pretty cold in this area later in the winter . .
    I am going to check out those two drains underneath because I didn't notice them when I was draining the fresh water tank and putting the hose into a pail of antifreeze to pump it through the whole plumbing system.
     
  12. bldmtnrider

    bldmtnrider Member

    Messages:
    337
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2014
    I would leave it alone for the winter if the tank is drained and the old plug has some Teflon tape, but come spring I would pull that plug back out and rinse the hot water tank. If the plug has never been removed you might have some buildup in the tank that should be rinsed out. I had the same situation with mine after I bought it (never winterized since it came from Florida) and there was a lot of calcium buildup that ultimately plugged the sink faucet. Couldn't believe how many particulates were coming out of the drain plug when I rinsed it out.

    After you pull the plug next time I would also take a wire brush to the threads and try to clean some of that old corrosion off. You can add a lite coat of vegetable oil (food safe) if you want to try to get some lubrication on the female threads but Teflon tape does the trick. You probably have a few years of life left with that anode unless you really want to replace it.
     
  13. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    Thanks for that info .
    How do you go about flushing the tank out . Just by forcing water into the hole where the plug was with a garden hose ?
    Yes , I do want to flush it out clean before I use it next spring .
     
  14. bldmtnrider

    bldmtnrider Member

    Messages:
    337
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2014
  15. Weewilly

    Weewilly Member

    Messages:
    41
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2016
    Looks like that would work real good . I am on amazon prime but this one still needs to be an add on up to $25.00 which is no problem for me with the amount of stuff I get there. So free shipping at this amazon price seems like a must have for cleaning the tank .

    https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11691-Water-Heater-Rinser/dp/B002XL2IBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476301289&sr=8-1&keywords=Camco+RV+Water+Heater+Tank+Rinser

    EDIT
    Well I'll be doggone. The link I posted was $6.50 with free shipping as an add on. Then when it came up it shows $11.40 Prime with two day free shipping and not an add on .
    Still a great price considering free shipping .

    https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-11691-Water-Heater-Rinser/dp/B002XL2IBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476301744&sr=8-1&keywords=Camco+RV+Water+Heater+Tank+Rinser
     

Share This Page