New battery and still no power

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by BDeF, Jul 2, 2020.

  1. BDeF

    BDeF New Member

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    We bought a 2012 Forest River on Mother’s Day and I haven’t been able to get the 12v power to work. Everything is functional on shore power.

    The old battery wasn’t holding a charge so I got a new one but still no juice is flowing. Kill switch is off. Red wire connected to + and white connected to -. Master switch in correct position. I’m no electrician but am hoping to get some other ideas before I take it somewhere for assistance.

    Also attaching a couple of photos to see if anything looks off.

    Thanks everyone

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. jmkay1

    jmkay1 2004 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah

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    Have you checked the fuses in the camper yet.
     
  3. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    I see no pictures. What are you calling the master switch- a battery cut off? Got a multi-meter?
     
  4. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Trace the red cable to see where it goes. There has to be a cable that goes the convertor (could be the red one or it's missing).
     
  5. Chrismtl

    Chrismtl Active Member

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    Following as I have the same issue in my 96 Viking. Switched the converter to 12v with a new charged battery and nothing. Never used the 12v in the 3yrs I've owned it, but we are planning to Boondock in September. Glad I checked it now.
     
  6. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    BDeF, your master switch is actually the back of the refrigerator, turn all that OFF.
    You are missing the battery fuse in your World Freindship power center.
    I'd use a 30A but many folks have 20A there. The sticker suggests circuit #4 to use a 25A fuse
    ya might change fuse #1 to 10A as indicated on sticker

    Your WFCO 8725 https://photos.app.goo.gl/YsK2QmY8e7ZiVi928

    Back of your fridge https://photos.app.goo.gl/57W57ixbGYx5Ht87A

    please add a signature with your popups info so all can see on each post
    https://www.popupportal.com/account/signature
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2020
  7. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    Last edited: Jul 2, 2020
  8. TheLight75

    TheLight75 New Member

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    I would suspect the battery wires may be broken somewhere along the length of the frame.

    Two tests you can try with a cheap multitester:

    Pre: Disconnect both wires from battery. Make sure you’re also not connected to shore power.

    Use the multitester in continuity test mode (if you touch the two probes, it will beep as long as they stay together).

    1. Ground check, short check
    - Touch one probe to the negative battery wire and touch the other probe to bare metal on the frame. It should beep indicating the battery negative terminal is properly grounded.
    - Touch one probe to the battery positive wire and touch the other to the battery negative wire. It should NOT beep. If it does, you have a short between ground and your positive battery terminal.

    2. Positive check
    - Tape the battery positive and negative terminals together. Go behind the converter and identify the red wire that comes from the battery. Touch one probe to the red wire and the other probe to a ground wire (or bare metal on the frame). It should beep since the battery terminals are shorted together.
    - Separate the battery positive and battery negative terminals. Run the same probe test again. This time is should NOT beep. (If it fails, you have a short on the battery positive wire from the converter end)

    If all these tests are successful, your wiring is fine.
     
  9. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Master switch at back of refrigerator ........ I don't think so .....sorry ..... those switches are for the refrigerator. The green switch is for 120 VAC heating element and the red is for the 12 VDC heating elements ...... for the refrigerator.
     
  10. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Well-Known Member

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    battery wires not likely to break, tho they may be disconnected.
     
  11. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    They will be destroyed by battery acid and salt. If inside a terminal, you may not see it. Circuit is still broke.
     
  12. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    thank you ray for your concern, the OP called them master switch and I noted thy were not, not sure your issue. you should direct your reply to him and not me providing education.

    did ya notice the missing fuse?

    other pic shows missing battery fuse, did I get that nomenclature correct!!! rflol
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2020
  13. BDeF

    BDeF New Member

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    Thanks. I'll get a new fuse and report back.
     
  14. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    I didn't see the photos ........ and I really don't care who called what. But if someone trying to solve a problem they should have the correct info.
     
  15. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    That is what I provided and the OP is taking action to replace the missing fuse! I regret your confusion but I did provide link to the pics and just for you I will post it here, this what the OP suggested was 'master switch', no its the back of the fridge. "Turn it all off".

    fridge.jpg
    I also provided a link to the op's WFCO 8725 but here is it for all!
    wfco8725.jpg
    Now you can reconsider your 1 st post (or not)
     
  16. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    rabid ............. chill ......... If you don't like my god-damm answers ----don't read them. NO ONE is ragging on you. I was just stating a fact.
     
  17. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    sorry ray, if your 1st post was sufficient I wouldn't of posted!
     
  18. BDeF

    BDeF New Member

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    The missing fuse did the trick, so thanks for the simple suggestion.

    Another problem now... Had lights/furnace for one night but somehow the battery drained with very little usage. I plugged it in to an outlet over 24 hours ago and it's still sitting at 11.50 volts. Am I missing something else that is easy? Or do I have a bad battery?
     
  19. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    Last edited: Jul 7, 2020

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