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Discussion in 'Campsite Electronics' started by Freedom72, Jul 11, 2010.
I'm doing a stereo over winter. Any suggestions on antenna location/mounts?
I was wondering about the antenna myself.
I mounted mine to the frame, just behind the propane tank. That is about as far as the original cord and an extender would go.
Fleetwood / Coleman has theirs looped in a circle about a foot wide under the counter...
I was putting in an on/off switch for my stereo and saw the speakers were labeled "front" and "back" so I finally figured out the fader: press the volume button.
I am thinking of installing a radio inside my pup. How would I hook the radio up to my converter to power it?
Powering a radio is simple, just tap a 12 volt source near your radio location. Most radios will have 2 power leads, one to retain the stations/clock and the other the radio itself. You can just put these two together, you will loose the stations when the battery is disconnected and the PUP is unplugged. You will also need to tap into a ground wire. We use an car antenna with a "booster" coil on the mast and is mounted sideways under a counter top, seems to work well. Now my 2 cents; you should think about how easy it will be to operate the radio inside the PUP. Mounting it low on the face of cabinet it may be hard to see and control. Our PO installed a very nice AM/FM/CD which had buttons so small the radio was a pain to operate. This last summer it replaced it with a 2 knob radio and it is much better. A small boom box on the counter would be even easier, but the hole was already there. So I am suggesting you plan your radio install thoroughly before you cut some holes. Also you do not need much to fill up a PUP with music, and at campground quiet time it has to be on low.
So if I understand correctly just splice the radio power wires directly to say an electrical outlet?
No, if it's a car stereo it's 12V. Crawl under your PUP and look for 12V wires and tap into those. Don't be wiring it into the 12/2 wire for your 110 volt appliances.
So what would 12V wires be, like a interior light. Come to think of it there is a "cigarette lighter" type plug that the previous owners added I could just tap into that.
The lighter will be perfect.
Hi all--- I don't think that I could figure this out on my own.. definitely missed the Electrical boat when it sailed here. lol. Just curious if anyone has taken their PUP into a service center to have one installed and if you ---& if you did what was the approx. fee you paid? We have Camping World & Bass Pro Shops here in town that could do it I think. Best Buy might even do it-- although I might get a laugh or two taking it in and setting it up in their service center!
Don't waste your'e money on that.
As folks directed before you can splice directly into a 12v source. Or you can do what I did. I simply run the power wire straight to the battery (which is EXACTLY how your car radio is juiced). Red power goes to the red terminal, black ground goes to the black terminal. Run an antenna and mount it (I mounted mine on the a frame running the wire underneath th pup-using an extension).
It's really a lot easier than it sounds.
Thanks JAJ--- maybe this (is) something that I could do on my own, I have yet to hook up to power at a CG so the direct to 12v might be the way to go. Currently I use an XM boombox that stays on my dinette table while camping-- I run a heavy duty power cord out thru the canvas to a converter I have plugged into one of my Jeep's 12v outlets. Fairly easy fix, but not having to deal with one more thing to load out/in would be great!
By the way, does your sound system draw a significant amount of power from your onboard battery?
A car stereo has to go through a fused circuit first.
On a PUP, if you run the head unit direct to your battery, put an in-line fuse large enough to support it.
Nice clean install BTW. But why would you only install one speaker inside? I personally would put two at least then you would get your music in stereo.
By nature car stereos don't draw much power. You should be able to run it for a while before it drains the batter; and by while I mean 24/7 for days. It prolly draws as much as the camper's dome light.
Also, these days, radios come with their own fuse. You don't need to instal an inline fuse at all. If you were installing a powerful amplifier, then maybe. The pup doesn't have all kinds of other stuff drawing from the battery like a car does; which is why the car needs an alternator.
Just keep extra fuses handy for the radio just in case you blow one because you hooked the ground to the power by mistake.
I'd like to weigh in on this subject again.
First, given that your camper is a 1992 model, it is almost certain that the output from your converte is unfiltered. It will eventually kill a modern electronic appliance like a car stereo in short order.
Your alternative to that is to wire it directly to the battery as JayAmyJamy suggested. I used to do that myself. The downside to that is that if you are camping in a site with electic, you still need to rely on your battery for the stereo. It's not necessarily such an insignificant power draw as DSAin Vegas has suggested. Maybe, maybe not. It depends upon your use. If you have a high power amplifier, it will drain your batery more quickly.
I'm with X on the drain... 35 to 50 watts is average for a basic car stereo, or roughly 3 - 5 amps. I'll let you know exactly what the stock Coleman is as soon as I get my new solar charge controller, as it can accurately monitor any current draw.