No gas to stove, furnace and no hot water

Discussion in 'Propane - Got Gas' started by Purplyn, Jun 25, 2020.

  1. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Hello,

    I couldn’t find the best place to post this question for help since it is linked to 3 things not working.

    We have a preowned 2008 Fleetwood Saratoga. We bought it last year, this is our 3rd time using it. Last time was a year ago, stove, furnace and hot water worked. We are new to camping (3 yrs) and new to pop ups.

    This time, we can’t get gas to the stove (Interior) and outside grill (attached to pop up). The furnace fan turns on but no hot air after 10 mins. The water doesn’t get warm even after an hour.

    We Know we have Propane bc we filled the tanks and we also had detached it to cook on a separate grill (Since neither of our stoves worked) so we know there is propane.

    My husband thinks the propane isn’t coming through the line. I read another thread about the ACME pigtail which perhaps we could buy a new one. But if that were the problem, wouldn’t we not have been able to get the separate grill working since it uses the same pigtail? Or Maybe the other issue is other tubing going through the camper that isn’t working?

    My husband Vaguely recalled the previous owner saying something about a fuse (or other) needing to be replaced occasionally?? If it were fuse related, that would impact the furnace and water heater but our stove should work to get gas right?

    How else can I trouble shoot? We have manuals but they were inadvertently left home. I couldn’t find the manual on internet either. It’s 5am and thankfully have made it mostly through the night without getting too cold.
     
  2. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Shut the tanks off and open them slowly. Then bleed out the air on the inside stove. You should here the air /propane coming out. There is a safty that shuts down if opened to fast.
     
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  3. Sneezer

    Sneezer Well-Known Member

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    My guess is air in the lines. Pups use low pressure for their appliances, and it can take forever to get them all lit at the beginning of the season. On mine the heater is closest, followed by the outside stove, interior stove, fridge and then water heater. I have to light all of them, primarily in that order, to get all the air out of the lines. The heater seems to make the biggest difference - once that lights off the others follow pretty quickly. You do need to open the main valve slowly as well - if it opens too quickly it will shut off because it thinks there is a leak.
     
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  4. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Thank you. Can you please Give me an idea how slowly? Do I turn 1/4 way every 30 seconds? Or 1 mins?

    Are the propane tanks left open throughout the day? I just remember also I may need to fill the water tank to get hot water. Although that doesn’t explain why the furnace isn’t working. Is propane also used For the furnace might that be a separate issue?
     
  5. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    [​IMG]

    Turn the cylinder gas valve OFF. Disconnect the big green ACME nut.
    Use something that will not scratch the brass like a ink pen with the tip retracted or the blunt end.
    Push on the center brass, it should easily move in/out 1/4" or so. If not easy to move use some force to move it (a small hiss of propane may be released when it moves).
    This safety feature needs to be depressed by the ACME nut's mating surface or there is ZERO flow. Once it moves re attach the ACME all the way, turn on the gas valve and try again.

    Give that a try and repost the results! ie did the stove light?

    The ACME nut itself has a flow limiter that can activate but it does not stop flow but causes very low flow, it can malfunction and then ya need a new pigtail.

    Also there is a thermal bushing in the ACME that can deteriorate and when it is not there the ACME can not screw on all the way so no flow. The thermal bushing is designed to melt in a fire, the spring loaded valve pushes the inside mating surface out and flow stops.

    I find fillers do not always shut the cylinder and in these warm temps, the pressure pushing on the spring loaded safety feature can be difficult to move and might not be pushed in when attaching the ACME, the ACME insides need to mate and push the spring loaded safety in to allow gas flow.

    One can disconnect the pigtail from the reg and attach to cylinder. With the cylinder valve open there should be low flow, placing your finger over the hole will allow pressure to build so there is full flow but when you release your finger it will revert to low flow (ACME flow limiter). The concept of opening slow is to prevent the flow limiter from engaging, while I find it near impossible to open slow enough to do that the flow limiter is designed to reset once the lines are pressurized and there are no big leaks or appliances on. Gunk in the ACME can make that not work and require a new pigtail.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2020
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  6. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Propane is used for the furnace, along with dc for the fan. Dont start the water heater without water in it. Make sure it isnt bypassed.
     
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  7. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Thank you for the explanations! I’ll give it a try in a couple hours when everyone wakes. I didn’t sleep well so maybe I can get a little rest now that I have an idea of what else to try!
     
  8. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    The fuse or something is most likely the anode element in the water heater. It is attached to the drain plug and will slowly be eaten away as it protects the water heater from corrosion.
    As others have stated get the stove to work first .... its the easiest ...... For the water heater you have to make sure there is water in the tank. The safety valve near the top of the water heater compartment has a lever on it .... lift the lever until water comes out...then you will know the tank is full. I would record the make and model numbers of the furnace and water heater and download the factory manuals from the internet and do some reading. Your water heater and furnace maybe be manual light units. (you have to light the pilots first before operating)
     
  9. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    don't turn on the water heater till you purge the air in the water system at a faucet hot water valve.
    If you winterize and use the bypass valves on the water heater you'll need to change the valves so the water heater fills, ~6 gallons.
     
  10. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Well-Known Member

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    Fuse = electric. Does YOUR PUP have a safety valve operated by a solenoid, like on a boat?
     
  11. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    I really think it is an anode they are talking about.
     
  12. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Hi everyone - thank you so much for taking the time to comment.

    We tried the slow propane flow, gauge with pushing in with pen and they are operating fine. Still not getting propane to stove.

    We will now try to buy the regulator (for 2 tanks) bc that’s the only thing we can think of that Would cause Both propane tanks to not have propane flow. Any other thoughts?
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2020
  13. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Empty propane tanks. Make sure they have propane in them. Could you have left something on and it ran out? Have to ask. You got to elliminate stuff to troubleshoot.
     
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  14. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Here’s a picture of our regulator and tanks. Supply place rep didn’t know what the red part is. Does anyone here know what it’s for?
     

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  15. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Yes confirmed both tanks have propane.
     
  16. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    red regulator is a high pressure regulator for a high pressure stove on the outside.
    Note that the high pressure regulator feeds the outside screw threaded connection and does not go through the 2 stage regulator.
    Have you tried the outside connection either with a HP stove or a regulated grill?
    Also note your reg is a standard for one input, the 2 cylinders are tied together before input to the regulator.

    I might be disconnecting each and see if there is any flow before the regulators, gunk may have plugged up something.
     
  17. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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  18. Aladin Sane

    Aladin Sane I'd rather be camping

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    Something else you could look at is the copper tubing running under the camper. On a previous camper I owned, the copper tube was beat flat by a tire blowout and no gas would flow until I replaced that chunk of tube.
     
  19. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Oh wow - you’re so resourceful. That explains the hp part. It was page 35. Super helpful! At first I kept looking and looking thinking do I need an engineer to read this and scrolled and found it on page 35. Thanks so much for your help. At least we are able to confirm setup isn’t wrong from how previous owner had. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2020
  20. TheLight75

    TheLight75 New Member

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    Are you sure you’ve got all the valves open on the gas line? Our Coleman PUP has 2 gas valves. One outside just under the frame and the other is inside the bottom cabinet next to the bunk.

     
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