No gas to stove, furnace and no hot water

Discussion in 'Propane - Got Gas' started by Purplyn, Jun 25, 2020.

  1. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    We just drove 30 mile one way to buy 2 propane pigtail Connectors. Fingers crossed these will fix the problem!

    We had done the test to see if the hose let out propane when we covered with our fingers and released. It might have been clogged like Rabird suggested.
     
  2. McFlyfi

    McFlyfi Well-Known Member

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    This happened to me...the regulator was bad. New regulator= gas flow.
     
  3. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Yay!!! Put in new propane Pigtail connectors and we got the indoor and outdoor grill working!! Thank you everyone for providing input!

    Next is to see if we can get warm water and the furnace working tonight. Hopefully the connectors were linked to the furnace not working last night instead of a completely different issue. Thankfully we are studying 3 nights total. Otherwise we’d be packing to leave tomorrow already!
     
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  4. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Alright, we have another problem : (

    So we started smelling gas so my husband tried to tighten the connectors. Then part of the center T connectors broke off. You can see The newer brass connector from the older one as part of the T. The odd thing is, this part that broke off doesn’t have a symmetrical side on the other T side. Not sure if that’s normal or not but we now need to get a replacement T connector.
     

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  5. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    Here is a photo tutorial on the hot water heater of lessons learned
     
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  6. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    I just an elbow with a swivel nut. Just replace it with a "street elbow"
     
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  7. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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  8. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Yes this is exactly what it was! So we were able to find one to buy and replace. We also put soapy water over the nearby joints and found another area leaking since it bubbled. Fixed it with some tape for gas lines. what a relief!!

    now on to figuring out the water heater. I think we should put some water in but my husband doesn’t think we needed to fill it last time when we were able to get warm water.
     
  9. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    If you hook up to city water with a white hose, the hot water heater will fill automatically once the city water hose is turned on.
    That might be why your husband remembers not having to fill up the tank, and pump water into the hot water heater.
    But if you are not hooked up to city water (with a white sanitary hose), then you need to fill the tank and turn on the pump and fill it up with water.

    Don't light it up until it has water in it or you could ruin the hot water heater.
    I did light mine once without any water and realized this after a while, and thankfully it didn't ruin the hot water heater, but I didn't wait until it was very hot to remember, oh, there's no water in the tank yet.

    You should test all this at home before getting to the campsite.

    You might want to also read my photo tutorials about de-winterizing and winterizing, if you haven't done that yet.

    You may notice I have a lot of other photo tutorials that might be useful as well.
     
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  10. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Everyone - from the bottom of my heart, thank you so much! We were able to resolve everything and can enjoy the rest if our trip.

    You folks are amazing!
     
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  11. Purplyn

    Purplyn New Member

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    Camping Family 1- yes, this is what it turned out to be!

    we didn’t need to fill the tank at all. We don’t know if we burned the heater. Maybe we should try to fill the tank and turn on the pump to test it? But wouldn’t we need to Turn off the water heater and use up the Current Hot water, then fill tank to test if our hot water Heater is working?

    Btw - do you leave the black water closed up and only dump when it fills a bit vs leaving it open constantly? Same with grey water?
     
  12. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    If its full and has pressure, it is probably hooked up to city water allready. So it will continue to fill as tou use the water in the tank.
    If you have a black and gray holding tank, yes wait untill its full to dump. Dont leave the valves open. Dump the greay for a second to make sure the drain is conected properly( not leaking). Then close it. Dump the black tank compleatly, then dump the rest of the greay to flush the black down and clean the sewer line some. Remember to add some water to the tanks and chemicals when your done.
     
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  13. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    You always want a full water heater to test electric element or propane. Why chance damaging the heater?
     
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  14. CampingFamily1

    CampingFamily1 Well-Known Member

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    You are probably ok and no need to worry.

    Is the hot water heater tank full of water? Then no problem. You can check if it has water by opening the "check valve" pictured below to see if water comes out, or by turning on your hot water faucet valve.

    [​IMG]

    Do you have hot water coming out?

    The danger is you might crack the ceramic lining on a Suburban water heater, which later results in rust inside the tank, and a need to replace the hot water heater for around $400. This is very rare. I actually have never heard of anyone doing this on this forum.

    We heated ours up for a number of minutes, maybe 20 min, maybe longer, I don't know, and it was fine.

    For some fancy models with a secondary "electric heating element" (usually on big rigs, not popups) these can burn out quickly without water inside the tank, but I doubt that you have an extra electric heating element to speed up heating recovery. You probably only have a gas heating option on a popup.

    You could flush the tank when you get home and see if any ceramic particles come out, but for now enjoy your camping trip and you are probably fine and no need to worry. If anything is damaged, it can always be replaced. But your joyful memories are the whole reason you are camping so go out and have some joyful memories!
     
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  15. Robmoo

    Robmoo Member

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    If all else fails and you have no flame/hot water it is usually one of two problems. There is a thermocouple that will shut off the gas if the pilot light goes out. If your pilot light won't stay lit this may have failed. The part will ikely b around$20. If you test the thermo couple and it is working right the next potential issue is the gas valve. The gas valve is around $150. Depending on your budget I'd go with a new DSI water heater. They cost $300-400, but are worth every penny. Just flip a switch and if you have gas and 12v you have hot water. The disadvantages are that if you dry camp you have to have a way of keeping the 12v charged. I went with the one with a 110v element to save a bit of gas when at state parks. Me and pilot lights don't get along too well. So, YMMV.
     
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  16. bronsta

    bronsta New Member

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  17. Brian Hovander

    Brian Hovander Member

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    One thing I have had to deal with is the fact that the safety valve in the propane pigtail device that connects to the propane tank goes bad in around a year or so. This has happened twice. There is a little stainless steel spring that keeps the little stainless steel ball away from the closed position. When too much propane flows thru this safety device the flow of propane greatly diminishes. Also, when the spring ages (faster when stored in a hot climate) it weakens and reduces the allowable flow of propane. Thus your appliances don't work and you only get a trickle of flow of propane that is barely enough to run one stove burner at about a third speed. SO MUCH FOR THIS NEWER SAFETY FEATURE ON PROPANE APPLIANCES.

    The solution, install a new pigtail connector and keep the warranty and receipt. Follow the instructions on slowly opening the propane tank valve so as to not send a rush of propane thru the valve and cause it to slam shut.
     
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  18. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    A power tool can be used to restore gas flow, also.
     
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  19. Othelzer

    Othelzer New Member

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    Othelzer
    Here
    Master mechanic retired

    One issue is the camco conversion propane whip from switchover tree to tank that uses acme threads to opd valve on top of tank ( in tank )
    The dark green connector dosen't penetrate deep enough into the OPD valve to release the flow check on some old valves

    I repaired my propane tee/ tree by replacing with new camco whips with a bright green acme thread plastic hand tight but.

    Problem solved
    Lesson there is a reason parts are cheap on ebay
     

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