No interior lights or heater

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by chiefjefe, Jan 16, 2012.

  1. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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    I've searched this issue and don't have a full grasp yet on what I can do to fix it. I own a 2003 Starcraft 1701L. The lights and heater lose power and don't work. I replaced fuses, they worked fine then shut down again. I removed the 15 amp fuse from the converter and the red light for the amp socket came on then I put it back in and it the lights and heater were fine all night. In the morning the power to the lights and heater went out again. Took out fuse, the red light did not come on this time, replaced it and the heater and interior lights didn't work. Help!
     
  2. teejaywhy

    teejaywhy Active Member

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    Questions:

    Are you plugged into shore power, or running off of the battery?

    Do any other DC devices work? porch light?, water pump?

    When you say you replaced the fuses and it worked fine for a while, did you put NEW fuses in? Were the old ones blown? Or just removing and replacing the same fuses?


    I don't understand what this means. ^^^


    Just a guess - If this is happening while your are plugged into shore power, can you test it with a fully charged battery? If everything is working from the battery, your converter may be failing.
     
  3. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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  4. teejaywhy

    teejaywhy Active Member

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    Sorry for all the questions. Troubleshooting is a process of elimination. Your problem is puzzling.

    Were the fuses blown?
    Are the lights and heater on the same fuse circuit?
    Do any other DC appliances work? (Water Pump?)

    Why it is puzzling:
    Heater and lights are not usually on the same fuse. And it would be indicating two problems if BOTH lights and heater fuses were blowing.
    However, If you replaced good fuses with new good fuses, that shouldn't cause anything to start working unless the converter is flaking out.

    I don't know the function of the red lights, my converter does not have them. If they are indicating power to each circuit, it seems strange that the light would come on when the fuse is REMOVED. ?
     
  5. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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    teejaywhy, I thank you for asking questions and trying to help, it is greatly appreciated. I don't have a water pump to try and I don't know if they are on the same fuse circuit but both the heater and interior lights go out with this problem. I will add that I have only had the camper plugged in and have not tried it on battery power. Unfortunately it is not here so I will have to wait until I'm up at camp to get into it more.
     
  6. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper Home is where you park it!

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    Location:
    Where my camper is parked now.
    Newer pups have a safety switch which turns off lights when you close the pup.
    Colemans are under the galley typically and I've seen starcraft with a safety switch near one of the roof posts.
    My thought is that the switch may be a bit flakey or out of adjustment and when you move around in the pup, it causes it to work or stop working.
    That might explain an intermittent problem.
     
  7. teejaywhy

    teejaywhy Active Member

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    I downloaded the User Manual for the 2003 Starcraft line (available on this web site in the owners manual section if you don't have one).

    There is no info about make or model of the converter, but I found this description that tells me what the red lights are for:

    "An internal overload/short circuit sensor will shut the converter down. ... A short circuit will shut the converter down instantly, even before a fuse is blown!"

    "A red LED at any of the fuse locations indicates a blown fuse or open 12V circuit such as a loose or cut wire."


    This tells me that the LEDS should be OFF during normal operation. So it makes sense that when you removed the fuse, the LED came on. I assume it went out again when you replaced the fuse.

    You never did say if the fuses were blowing??

    I also found a schematic. It shows three DC output circuits:
    - Lights
    - LP Detector
    - Furnace & Refer

    Someone mentioned the kill switch. Both the furnace (thermostat) and the overhead lights are on (separate) kill switches. The porch light is not on a kill switch. If the overhead lights go out but the porch light still works, that would be an indication of an open kill switch. The kill switches are mounted under the fold over sink base.

    Otherwise, either there is an overload condition that is shutting the converter down or the converter is flaking out.

    If it is an overload, you can troubleshoot by removing the furnace fuse. If the lights stay on, something on the furnace/refer circuit is causing an overload. (you don't by chance have the refer set to DC mode do you?). If the lights still go out, then try removing the light fuse, and plug in the heater fuse. Run the heater and if there is no fault, then there is a problem in your light circuit... etc.

    Regarding the refer on DC mode - there is a note in the user manual:
    "When in 12V mode, a refrigerator operates on battery power only. The refrigerator should never be wired to operate from the converter as the refrigerator requires more power than the converter can supply..."

    This could possibly cause an overload shutdown of the converter.

    Good luck.
     
  8. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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    I also found a schematic. It shows three DC output circuits:
    - Lights
    - LP Detector
    - Furnace & Refer

    I forgot to mention that all three go out including the LP detector when I have this problem.

    The fuses did not appear to be blown and it did shut off and after I removed a fuse and then reinstalled the same fuse it started working again. Then it shut off one more time and it would not come back on.

    Leads me to believe that a short circuit has occurred and shut it down prior to the fuse blowing. What do you think? Would it be a faulty converter or another problem if this is the case?

    Regarding the fridge it does not work and I have not tried it for quite some time.
     
  9. teejaywhy

    teejaywhy Active Member

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    I was thinking a converter shut down as well.

    My trouble shooting suggestion is to isolate each circuit one at a time (by pulling the fuse) to see which circuit is causing the overload.

    I would also suggest you check the refrigerator controls and make sure they are not set for DC operation.
     
  10. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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    Really appreciate your help, you've given me some good ideas to look into. Will probably get up there in two weeks to check it out.
     
  11. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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    Well went up and used camper last night, heater and lights ran fine all night...

    Would some type of issue with the power I'm plugging into cause a converter shutdown? I'm stumped... [:(!]

    Also checked the fridge and it is turned off.
     
  12. tvketchum

    tvketchum New Member

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    I'm thinking you have a safety switch which is going bad, or has oxidation which is causing the problem. My Starcraft has it under the galley, so when you fold it over, the 12v ceiling lights and heater are cut off and cannot operate, lest they cause a fire. The outside 12v light will remain operational. Whn you fold the galley, it is a silver button which pops up a bit.
     
  13. chiefjefe

    chiefjefe New Member

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    I checked those, don't think that's the issue as I lose the heater, interior lights and propane detector all at once. The heater and int. lights have different safety switches so I would think that is ruled out
     
  14. tvketchum

    tvketchum New Member

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    Okay, the fact it worked at camp would make me think the 110 plug may be loose when plugged into the house.
     
  15. papachaz

    papachaz New Member

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    i'm gonna throw another thing to ponder here. the FUSES don't have anything to do with the 110. the fuses are for the 12 volt side, IE: the lights and frig (if you have it set to 12 volt) and furnace fan. the outlets are strictly 110v, and those work off circuit breakers.

    i'm of the mind that either A: something is wrong with the converter B: since everything worked at camp, and not at home, there's something wrong with where you're plugging it in

    i'm gonna go with B, that's where i'd start looking.
     
  16. freenaz

    freenaz Member

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    You never did say (or I missed it) what model your converter is, that could come in handy.
    If it has a charging circuit and no battery is connected you should make sure the fuse to that circuit is removed so the wires are not shorting out.
    Does it have good ventilation so it is not overheating and shutting down.
    Try and test it with a battery.

    Good luck
     
  17. csi

    csi New Member

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    I had almost the same problem with mine. The interior lights would work and then stop working, then work again, until they finally stopped working altogether. I replaced fuse after fuse in total frustration. What was strange is while the lights wouldn't work, the Air conditioning and outlets worked just fine. Finally took it into the shop and it turns out the switch on the galley (that I never knew about) was broken and the converter didn't work right. $400 later everything works just fine, lol.
     
  18. bigdad

    bigdad Active Member

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    I had a problem on my other camper i had the battery was low on charge and the converter was trying to charge up the battery this was when i was plug in to shore line it took the cg maint person to find the problem he check the cg outlets and they were fine then he check the battery with a volt meter that's when showed 8 volts so i unhook the battery the problem stop. so try this go an unhook the battery and plug the shore line so you are on 30 amp then trun on the lights and the heater or the Refe and if the problem stop take your battery and charge it up.
     
  19. teejaywhy

    teejaywhy Active Member

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    Is it possible, at the campground you plugged directly using the 30A plug, and at home you are using an adapter to plug into a 15A household socket? Bad adapter?
     

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