OCD Leveling

Discussion in 'Leveling Your Camper' started by Sandman51, Nov 3, 2021.

  1. RonDad

    RonDad Active Member

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    I don’t think being level is OCD behavior at all. Experienced campers are prepared to go through their leveling process before knowing how far out of level their site/position will be. So if they have to throw down 1 block vs 2 or 3, there is not a significant variation from “the plan” - and you get all of the benefits of actually being level mentioned above.
     
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  2. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Your right, after a bit you just grab the corect stuff and bam its level. When i fist started out , i used step chocks. I just used a tape messure off the level line to the box of the camper and knew how many inches of blocking i needed. After the first year, i never even pulled the level out. On the TT the bubble levels are dead on, but i still carry the level just on case.
     
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  3. DiamondGirl

    DiamondGirl Adventures with KODI in AZ

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    Leveling is important. My GF has a Starcraft high wall with a dinette slide. They never leveled their PopUp. They had fridge issues on a regular basis and never figured out why. Their roof was hard to lift. Then she didn’t level it at the lake. She pushed out the slide and it slide back closed. It almost crushed her and the dog. That was a scary lesson to learn. I got her a double curve leveler last Xmas for their tandem axle. Hopefully they will remember to use it the next time camping and especially at the lake.

    Happy Camping…[put&hy]
     
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  4. Dingit

    Dingit Well-Known Member

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    A popup is easy to level, and I do it for all the reasons listed above.

    I also have a "self-propelled" unit and as much of a hassle as it is to level it every time, yeah. It gets leveled when we set up camp. Sometimes we settle and say, "oooo close enough!" and we usually regret it. We are not super precise and just go by the dashboard display which is close enough.

    We rarely have a paved parking spot, and even less frequently a level one.
     
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  5. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    Thanks for being humble and not bragging about the calculus that is done in our head on the fly to level. Most are born with innate leveling knowledge and just don't know it, some just stay at holiday inn but the vast majority just do it!
     
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  6. Scotgrob

    Scotgrob New Member

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    I've been using a BAL leveler for 14 years. I pull out a stick level, level front-to-back with the tongue jack, then find which side is lower, stick the leveler under the low side, crank a few times and call it a night. Since it uses a threaded rod, it allows you to get as OCD as you want.
     
  7. Patrick w

    Patrick w Active Member

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    How does that work? Like if it's front to back normally you'd use the tongue jack to adjust.
     
  8. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    I have a TT so , no need to pull out the bed in the front. Usally, if traveling for one night the sites are not that unlevel to begine with. I just lower the tounge jack with the TV attached. I leave everything, chains, plug. Etc hooked up. I also do the stabs after this, but I have a rear bed slide, so dont want to risk too much stress on the hitch. If it looks like I'm picking the truck up with the jack, i will just uncouple it and start over, but i never had to do that.
     
  9. Steveo4090

    Steveo4090 Well-Known Member

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    I'm on the verge of OCD with leveling, but not quite there. On the topic of stabilizing, I'm at the far end of OCD. With 3 kids, 2 adults, and an 80 lb golden retriever it's almost a requirement to sleep at night
     
  10. tfischer

    tfischer A bad day camping beats a good day at the office

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    No need to be OCD about leveling. I posted a thread a month or two ago on Dometic's published margins of error on what the fridge needs, and it's WAY more than you'd ever want to tolerate (like several inches off over the width and length of your camper). Get it close enough to be comfortable for you and your lift system and fridge will be happy too.
     
  11. kitphantom

    kitphantom Well-Known Member Platinum Supporting Member

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    For us, leaving it hitched overnight is handy, but does require a pretty level site. For overnight stops, we manage to stay hitched a good portion of the time when we wish. We only stay hitched if it's level or we only need to level one block-worth. Otherwise, we unhitch. We could never stay hitched with our popups, because we didn't have room to extend the bed between the trailer and tow vehicle without unhitching and moving the vehicle away a bit; we also needed access to the cargo area of the vehicle.
    You can see a photo in one of my replies on the first page of this thread, showing how we can level front to back, one-block worth by placing Lynx blocks under both back tires of the truck, or the tires of the trailer. If we need to level side to side, the coupler on the ball allows us to do that, we again prefer to keep that to one block height.
     
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  12. Moody Walters

    Moody Walters New Member

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    There’s medication for **** like this✅✅
     
  13. LilRed

    LilRed Well-Known Member

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    After reading this, I feel spoiled with my factory bubble levels, a curve wedge, and second person to read the front leveler while backing up on the curve. Thereafter, front to back leveling is easy with the power jack. I have and use the lynx blocks for the stabs, or I suppose in case I'm really uneven side to side.. but I have come to think they add some softness and bounce vs straight stabs to the ground.

    YMMV: I have done camp driveway with a very slight side pitch, and definitely felt it while sleeping.
     
  14. Patrick w

    Patrick w Active Member

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    The problem with the Anderson and camco wedge style is that the ground is subject to it's own imperfections. Even as one side is rising from the wedge, the other side may fall into divots, etc thus missing the mark in the other direction. This is probably the single greatest reason for the bal (if applicable) . One wheel remains stable, while the other wheel gets lifted. I still need pieces of wood for the legs of the fold out as they do not integrate with the body of the camper.
     
  15. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    your site selection really sucks to come up with that mumbo jumbo, I'm guessing you have not tried any curved wedge style. I'll happily brag my site selection is far superior than what you suggest. Try again!
     
  16. Wrenchgear

    Wrenchgear Near Elmira, Southern Ontario

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    I level mine for 2 reasons, my head and my door. (using Lynx)
    1) I hate sleeping with my feet higher than my head. If so, I wake up in the morning all groggy and sluggish in my brain, feeling like the blood has been pooling there all night long. 2) The pup door. When things are out of level, that door will not open or close smoothly. It will always bind in the frame.

    Many people claim that the fridge will not work if it's out of level. That is true, but it has to be waaay out of level for it to not work. There is a spec somewhere that states what degrees of level the fridge must be in to work. I have a hill for a driveway, not a super hill, but enough of one that if I want to level the Pup front to back, I have to raise the tongue up about 3 1/2+ feet. I rarely do that, and just raise it a little higher than if we'd be camping. So, it's still nose down when in the driveway, but the fridge still works fine. It may not be as efficient as if it was perfectly level, but the performance difference is not noticeable. If the Pup was so far out of level that the fridge won't work, the rest of the Pup would be almost unusable. You'd be rolling out of bed, the roof might not go up, the door wouldn't work, stuff would fall out of the fridge every time you open its door.....
     
  17. tfischer

    tfischer A bad day camping beats a good day at the office

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    Been using the Andersen for about 5 years and have never had the issues you describe. You're usually moving the "other" wheel 3-6 inches, and unless you happen to be right next to a hole, there usually isn't much difference in level in that short of a distance.
     
  18. Eric Webber

    Eric Webber Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    With my Air conditioner running I need to be slightly off level, or I get water backing up inside. But only by enough for the water to run off
     
  19. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    With my TT I never had a problem with the camco levelers. Be it at state parks , gravel , or compacted sand.
     
  20. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    I've been using the Andersen Leveler for four years and have had issues. Andersen Levelers work great on compact surfaces like developed campsites, but they are lousy on soft surfaces. Especially if it rains.

    Most of my camping is boondocking and that usually means camping on sod, not rock hard or compacted soils like at developed campsites. So the Andersen is nearly useless on softer surfaces. If the soil is soft/wet, the Andersen will sink into the soil and if the soil has recently been rained on, it will continue to sink as you set up.

    The fatal flaw is that the curved levelers are too narrow. If they were twice as wide, there may be a better result on softer soil. And if you try to compensate for the narrowness by putting them on a wide board, the Andersen leveler will want to slide right off of the board.

    I learned this the hard way when I used it once on wet soil. I was level at first, but after a couple of hours, the Andersen sank into the soil and the level of the camper was off by 2 1/2 inches.
     
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