Organizational Boxes

Discussion in 'A-Frame PopUps' started by Econ, Feb 7, 2020.

  1. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    This may turn out to be a long post so parts may be scattered through this thread.

    Organizational Boxes: A couple months ago an obligation was made to @Strawhouse that photos of my organizational boxes would be posted. These boxes have become numerous in the Aliner and through the house. We will start with the original box that started it all.

    One of the problems with woodworkers is how small does the piece of wood have to get before throwing it away? I have seen some throw away a 1/3 sheet of plywood. My current standards are less than 1/2". What do you do with a piece of plywood 3/4" wide? After you set the table saw up for a dado or rabbet cut you use the scrap to verify the intended saw setting.

    There was a project that produced an abundance of plywood strips about 6" wide. The DW has a coffee maker than uses the overpriced, little, plastic cups that she buys by the 100's at Costco. She wanted a system to hold a variety on the countertop. These boxes are 3 cups wide by 3 cups long by 2 cups plus a 1/4" deep. On the bottom of each box are 4 - 3/4" square pieces of 1/4" plywood that nest into the box below it for stacking. 1/4" ply is too thin to rabbet joint so these are butt jointed.

    upload_2020-2-7_10-7-19.jpeg

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    upload_2020-2-7_10-9-11.jpeg upload_2020-2-7_10-7-19.jpeg upload_2020-2-7_10-8-3.jpeg upload_2020-2-7_10-9-11.jpeg

    The Baltic Birch, multilayered plywood provides a modernistic, striped accent. The construction is a plywood base pan that the sides are build on top. Each one takes a day. You start by gluing a long side with clamps to the base and walk away. The next time you walk through the shop you glue another side, etc

    Save your posts for a couple days and the left front storage box project will be posted below.

    Sand the interior surfaces before assembly and finished in Tung Oil.
     
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  2. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    The microwave was taken out and drawers put in its place. Our Expedition has a moveable top that covers the cassette toilet and microwave. A wooden pan was built that goes on top of the old microwave hole forming the ceiling for the drawers. Here's the pan with organizational boxes:

    upload_2020-2-7_10-25-4.jpeg

    We like the ability to pick what you need and take it elsewhere.
     
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  3. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Active Member

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    Excellent
     
  4. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    The Left Front Exterior compartment.

    The Expedition dinette is locate in the nose with the benches up against the side walls. The left front bench has a dividing wall in the middle and the front part has an exterior door.

    I drive the TV. After backing into the camping site I exit the left side and check the bubble level for side to side. The Left Front Compartment is named the set up compartment with set up supplies. To be explained later is my method of hitting side to side level 95+% on the first attempt. The number of Leveling Links are calculated and withdrawn from the compartment. The camper is pulled up on the Links.

    Here is the Set up Compartment as found upon opening the door. The plywood in the right rear is a "half degree link" sitting on the other Leveling Links. Missing in this photo are the main wheel chocks and the nose wheel chocks. An obligation has been made to post about the nose wheel chocks and that will come later.


    upload_2020-2-7_11-34-43.jpeg
    The camper is level. The main wheel and nose wheel chocks are taken out of the right upper box and used. The box just below it: If full connections the pressure regulator and misc tools ride in it. So is the blow out fitting. We never use antifreeze in the plumbing. We blow out the plumbing after each winter trip.

    The boxes are indexed on the bottom so they are stackable. They did not become unstacked and survived the Catalooche Entrance Road ( A well known standard for those of us who have drug a camper down).
    upload_2020-2-7_11-57-0.jpeg

    The two boxes on the right or rear are based on the width of the Leveling Links. The one to the left that holds the hoses and cable coax is based on the space left forward the Lynx.
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    upload_2020-2-7_12-2-41.jpeg

    Camper is level, chocked, connected if full connections. Next, crank the stabs down.

    upload_2020-2-7_12-11-25.jpeg

    The camper has its own lug socket and breaker bar.

    A half degree Leveling Link.:

    upload_2020-2-7_12-14-6.jpeg


    More to follow. Its lunch time.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2020
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  5. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Active Member

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    your first photo reminded me of my simple upper level extra tray-recently made, for the deep drawers on our roll top desk. The matching one on the other side is being made today. I bought the side piece online, already slotted for the base. The assembly is glued - no other fasteners. I used a Forstner bit to make one finger lift recess on each of the four sides. Base plywood was from Home Depot. This simple project increases the utility of the roll top desk.
     

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  6. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Dam you all, now i have to break out my woodworking stuff! Lol.
    Looks great!
     
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  7. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    Right Front Compartment: This is underneath the right dinette bench. This space is considered a pain to access from the interior. Move the coats from the rack just above it. Move the seat cushions. Move the magazine box (another organizational box<GG>) Move the shower box. (Yet another organizational box). Then you have to deal with the sheet of plywood under the cushion.

    This compartment is a non food, non clothing catch-all. There is no dividing wall like the left front. It is accessed thru an exterior door on the front right exterior in the front half of the dinette bench. This compartment is fraught with internal projections. One box had to be remade as one projection slipped past me. There is the radio and two speaker box projections. Then there is wire to deal with.

    This is made of 3/8" Baltic Birch using Rabbet Joints. There are 3 rabbets each on the end pieces and one rabbet along the bottom of the side pieces. Paint white on the inside for maximum light reflection and bug control.

    upload_2020-2-7_13-31-6.jpeg

    The middle box is the key to this puzzle. The widths of the other boxes keeps the middle box aligned with the door. The middle box is shy of each door side by about 3/4" because of curved radius in the door frame corners. Later a approximate 2.5" high shim was added under the middle box so it only has to be picked up a 1/4" to remove. To access the side boxes you have to remove the center box. The nice thing is rather than pawing over everything in the compartment you withdraw it and just look in the boxes that are organized. There are stops to protect the projections and wiring.

    The boxes are 1) Left upper: the solar panel supplies 2) Left Lower: Charcoal. The amount of charcoal needed is placed in a plastic shopping bag then that bag placed in a separate bag in case the first leaked. There are 3 or 4 portions or bags. There is also a lighter, a bag of laundry lint, and a bag of beeswax coated sawdust chunks towards the front. This one is the hardest to withdraw. 3) the center box. This is the tall things, immediate access things, flammables like white gas, the boot brush ( https://www.popupportal.com/threads/housekeeping.127000/#post-1309021 )
    4) Right lower: Deep storage. Tube of Sikasil N Plus . 3M Weatherstriping glue ( this stuff is great) 5) Upper right: electrical cords, rope , parts , etc

    To the extreme right hanging on the front wall is the caulking gun with a tube of Sikasil.

    When staining these I finally made peace with water based stain. Ignore the instructions. Dilute it with water.

    Next, Shower boxes and magazine boxes.
     
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  8. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    Looks good!

    Great minds think alike <GG>

    You should see the 2 story silverware organizer being made for DW for the next gift giving requirement. Its a custom made lower rack and a half rack on top that slides back and forth allowing access.

    Non of the above have fasteners. They were glued with Titebond III. Tests show that the wood will tear loose before the glue joint fails. Be real careful using this if you intend to stain. It penetrates and seals the grain.

    Try a sheet of Baltic. It stays flat, no voids and is really nice to work with. Consistent thickness. Its usually A/B. Costs more than HD though. Russian Birch is being sold as Baltic. Not sure I could tell the difference

    Bonus points given if you use a hand plane <GG> Especially if you use a router planer <GG>

    These boxes have turned out to be so useful there is a stack of wood on the workbench with future ones needing assembly.
     
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  9. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    My plaines and most of my tools are sitting idle. I have done less as i get older, even though im not that old! I have ellectric plaines, hand held and stationary. Most of my woodworking tools went into the trash when i moved 3 years ago. No one wanted the big heavy steal stuff. And i didnt want to move them eaither. So , radial arm saw, giant table saw, band saw gone. I also got rid of a few air nailers etc.
     
  10. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    If you have any pre-war Stanleys or Records that need sharpening just let me know. i may have to keep them for a while to make sure I did a good job. <GG> Lie Nielsen and Veritas sharpened too <GG>
     
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  11. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Why am i imagining your tools look like this? 20200207_171624.jpg
     
  12. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    Some do. I have some post war Stanley's that are up for sale. I have a 1930's depression #5 Stanley Handyman in good condition bought before the tulip craze hit pre war Stanleys but I don't collect. The price of Pre-war has gone up so much that my choice now is to get new Veritas for about the same price. My brain is wired for functional and practical.
     
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  13. Anthony Hitchings

    Anthony Hitchings Active Member

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    from this afternoon, here are a couple of in-progress shots for my 2nd simple drop-in tray
     

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  14. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    upload_2020-2-7_16-41-2.jpeg

    In the corners are the shower boxes and magazine/reading material boxes. It's cold out there in the camper and don't want to take a closeup of them.

    The magazine boxes are made of 3/8" Baltic Ply with rabbet joints. We get far behind on reading so magazine and books are placed here to be read while camping. The shower box sits on top.

    The shower box is 13.5" by 15.5" built months/maybe a year ago. It was highly instructive. It is made with over leftover 1/4" Baltic. The sides are not perfectly flat with slight bows due to overly thin plywood for the application. The sides either need a stiffener sistered on the top edges or better would be made of 3/8" Baltic.

    The main box holds shower shoes, towels, and what I'm changing into after shower. There is a small box inside for toiletries. Shampoo has been eliminated in the house by the use of Kirk's Castile Soap. All leftover shampoos is now in the camper to be used up. Castile Soap is a pure soap- No fragrance, no oil, no lotion, no nothing but soap that will breakdown body oil. Great for skin, hair, beard, eyeglasses,etc.

    I know. The towels hang from the compression rod between the A walls to dry but somehow this helps with DW's perception of clutter.
     
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  15. Econ

    Econ Well-Known Member

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    Looking good.

    I see you have the fancy store bought corner clamps. Mine are made with left over 3/4" Baltic ply.
     

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