Our front bunk caulk is cracked again

Discussion in 'PopOut (Hybrids)' started by cfmx, Apr 13, 2014.

  1. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    Anyone know why the caulk around the inside metal frame of front bed keeps cracking. When we picked the camper up from the dealership brand new it was cracked. The dealership recaulked right over the old and we took it home 2 hours later. Our first trip this past weekend and I noticed it's cracked all along the top again.
    Is this normal? What caulk should we be using to reseal. I have dicor non-self leveling from our previous PUP.

    This isn't a picture of my camper but if it was the arrows are pointing to were the caulk problems are at.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ghacker

    ghacker Active Member

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    The dealer should have stripped off the old caulk before applying the new. All he did was put a bandaid on it. And some caulks need time to setup so that could have contributed to the problem. Your Dicor would be a good product to use after you properly prepare the surface-strip off old caulk and clean surface.
     
  3. fmbhappycamper

    fmbhappycamper PuP Power

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    clean surface with rubbing alcohol before caulking. I used a marine grade on mine [8D]
     
  4. Old_Geezer

    Old_Geezer Well-Known Member

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    In that area of the doors do not use Dicor lap sealant, use Geocel Proflex RV if you can get it. I order it online directly from Geocel.
    http://www.geocelusa.com/product/all-rv-aftermarket/pro-flex-rva-flexible-sealant-detail.html

    Your Roo is brand new, get it back for warranty immediately. If water is getting in the bottom door joint it will ruin the door fast. If they had it sitting on a lot somewhere with that joint open for any length of time I would be requesting a complete new door assembly.

    You/They need to remove as much of the old caulk as possible, clean well with denatured alcohol and reseal. It should be done when the door can be left closed for at least two weeks for the caulk to cure fully. You get a lot of stress on the bottom joint when opening and closing the bunk.

    Although not a Forest River door read this thread.
    http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=64579.0

    The links to the pictures in the thread are long since broken but here are two of them.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    ABSOLUTELY if it's brand new get it back to the dealer!!! ASAP!
    NO "new" product should have cracks like that........especially it being new.
    you'll pay for it later on if you don't change it now.
     
  6. lasttruck

    lasttruck New Member

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    Definitely asking for trouble if not caulked correctly.

    Down the road, after warranty, consider applying Eternabond. 20 year life.

    A bit expensive, some work to apply (but you do not need to remove the old caulk) and the edges can be a bit unsightly, but the protection is top notch.
     
  7. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    This camper was special order or at least we waited 13 weeks and was told it was. But any how it shouldn't have been open or sitting around on a lot. It was manufactured the end of Feb.

    I will call the dealership. I think their service isn't that great. We have a camping trip in 2 weeks. So I'm not sure about not using it for 2 weeks. [:O] That's why we were going to do the caulk ourselves.
     
  8. rob2218

    rob2218 New Member

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    that's risky...tough position to be in.
    Special order or not........if a BRAND NEW piece of equipment that you paid heaven knows how much for...came in defective....folks..dunno bout you all but I'd drive the dern thing back and pitch a fuss and have them change out that panel on the spot....seriously.
    thousands of dollars and you have panel that is cracked an potentially can cause water damage...!!!..773H no mates!.
    them allz need to get it fixed or take that back and get you a new one ASAP.
     
  9. camper2009

    camper2009 New Member

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    I think you may have answered your own question re the dealer workmanshiop...
    Any dealer that would just caulk over a cracked caulking is far from being a professional and would be far from my list of repair places, as its obvious he doesn't care. Move on..

    G
    [:D]
     
  10. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    I just order some of the GeoCel Pro Flex RV Flexible Sealant.
    Now to get this Roo w/ no crack caulk for a little while. While we're caulking we will be inspecting the rest of the camper.
     
  11. Starcraft Away

    Starcraft Away New Member

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    Just a tip using the pro flex only do a short strip at a time , this stuff sets fast . Not a lot of time to tool and get it looking smooth.
     
  12. RockyRoo

    RockyRoo Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD

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    Get the warranty number out of your owners manual and call Roger Bieler and talk to him about it and find out what to do. Old Geezer probably has a good product, but Roger can tell you if there is somewhere better to take it to than your original dealership for a warranty repair if you want to go that route. Roger is great to work with.
     
  13. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    RockyRoo- I will be calling FR for sure.
    This weekend after close inspection all 3 beds had to be recaulk because of cracked caulk. And not only that but the caulk around the slide rubber seal was breaking away and the caulk down by the propane tanks. I'm thinking who ever caulked our camper at the factory wasn't very good at it. [:!]
    To make matters worse the dealership decide to caulk on top of the manufacture caulk w/ silicone caulk. What fun we had.......
    Here are some pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    We also noticed that there is no caulk at the bottom of any of the bed frames on the camper. FR caulked the sides, top and 1 inch on each of the bottom side. To me water could work its way into the camper if driving into the rain. What do you think??

    [​IMG]
     
  14. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    [​IMG]

    This picture looks more like there wasn't a decent bead of caulking on there to begin with. When there is, I'll bet you won't have any more issues with it separating, hopefully!

    Good Luck!
     
  15. RockyRoo

    RockyRoo Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD

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    Wow, I dont think I have these issues but now I want to grab a magnifying glass and go look mine over. I can certainly see where you would be concerned about the lack of caulk along the bottom edge as well. I have to admit I never looked at mine close enough to see if it has caulk there
     
  16. Old_Geezer

    Old_Geezer Well-Known Member

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    I'd be careful with this. It may be the way Forest River designed the door assembly. It may allow water to weep out along the hinge if it does get inside. I do know that on LCI bunk doors used on my Keystone and most other HTT's, the hinge is a self draining assembly where if any water gets inside it is designed to drain out the ends of the hinge. I have never seen a F.R. door up close long enough to study it.
     
  17. shelmily

    shelmily Well-Known Member

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    cfmx, Sorry to hear about the caulk problems, I'm not exactly in the same boat, as I bought mine used, but it is a 2012. My caulk joints under the bottom lip are definitely caulked. However I'm not sure if they came from the factory that way. The dealer I bought it from was very good, and went over the entire camper with a fine tooth comb. Either way, one of the two thought those seams should be caulked.
     
  18. RockyRoo

    RockyRoo Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD

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    So I checked mine today and mine is in fact UNcaulked across the middle of the front bed. The outer edges are caulked inward about 2 inches, but the rest of the bottom edge of the front bunk is in fact not caulked. I would guess Old Geezers idea is probably valid.
     
  19. cfmx

    cfmx New Member

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    RockyRoo - good to know your's isn't caulked under there.
    We're taking the Roo on 400 mile round trip this weekend. Will see if the caulk breaks again.
     

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